K Frame Questions

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stephen_g22

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I have decided that I cannot live without a K frame. I am thinking about a model 19 with a 2.5" barrel. How does accuracy and balance compare between the 2.5" tube and a 4" tube.

Also, how much bigger would a 2.5" model 19 be than a J-Frame model 638, 642 or similar? Does anyone have a picture of a J Frame and K frame together?

I have seen a model 19 blue for around $285. Is that a good price.

I have gone revolver crazy recently. I think I need a model 29 as well.:D
 
I think I need a model 29 as well.

No, you need a 29 as well! :evil: I recently (last monday) bought a 19. I'm not gonna stop til I get a 29 as well. THen there'll be peace in the universe :cool:
 
In general, the accuracy of a 2.5" gun isn't much different than that of a 4, 6 or 8" gun.
Ahh, but the devil is in the details.
A 2.5" gun can be harder to shoot at optimum accuracy than a longer tubed gun.
Two main things play heavily.
The first is balance. The more weight out in front of your hand, the steadier you are on target.
Only to a reasonable extent; once the gun becomes too heavy overall to hold comfortably for an extended amount of time, accuracy is obviously impaired.

The second is sight radius. Aiming is a confoundation of vectors, angles, degrees and varied focal distances.
The closer together the front and rear sights, the more point of impact deviation you get by moving left and right, up and down.
To ballpark it, I think I remember an example where a gun with a six inch radius (as may be found on a 2.5" gun) is aimed at 25 yards, and if the front sight is moved .01" off side, it causes an 18" or so impact deviation.
At the same distance and same sight movement, a 6" gun with 9.5" radius suffers only a 6" impact deviation.
To be honest, I know my numbers are off. I'm only ballparking it, and I don't have a calculator with me so I can't work out the geometry, but the fact remains, there is less error with a longer radius.

So, to actually address your question, a 2.5"-3" M19, or 66, or 64 or 65 or 10 or 13 or 547 etc etc is a fine gun. But, for learning on a revolver, most people have better luck with a 4 or 6" gun, especially if you plan on using magnum ammo as a routine.
Oh yeah, that brings up points three and four: with more weight forward there is less vertical muzzle flip in recoil, and with greater overall weight there is less felt recoil total; both of which add to a successful session at the range.
Get the gun you're looking at, as that is the one you fancy; and also consider getting a used or police traded-in 4, 5 or 6" M10, M13, M14, M15, M64, M65, M66 or in L-frame a M581, 586, 681 or 686.

And now that you're hooked, we need to talk about a K-frame .22LR revolver. The M18 is wonderful, as are the various M17s and M617s.
:) Have fun! -Kframe
 
Full loads in a 2.5" 357 are not very efficient and produce , to me , unacceptable muzzle blast. Along with short sight radius ,muzzle flip I'd stick with the 4".
 
The L-frame is more of a 'medium-large' frame gun.
Kinda like a K-frame that ate its Wheaties.
The L came about due to the fact that extended use of .357 Magnum full-loads in the K-frame can crack the forcing cone, crack the frame under the barrel, loosen things up prematurely and a couple other things.
They (S&W) added more metal in the right places and consequently needed to increase the cylinder diameter, cylinder window and thread areas in size.
Also, nearly all of the L-frame guns have barrels with full-lugs.
The K's are the 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, (56 very rare), 64, 65, 66, 67, 617 and I'm sure I'm missing a couple.
The L's are 581, 586, 681, 686, 696 and I think a few more.

For brand comparison, the L-frames are about like the Ruger GP-100 series in weight and size.
The K-frames are slightly bigger than the Colt Police Positive.
-Kframe
 
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