Kassnar PJK-9HP trigger help

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thouk

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Hello,
I took my Kassnar PJK-9HP out to the range today. I had a fun time making holes in the paper. I was feeling the trigger pull and it takes, for me, a long time to get to the actuation point of the trigger. I have read that someone had taken the magazine safety off and the trigger was better. Can anyone walk me through this? I was shooting an eight inch target at one hundred yards and hitting it. I was laughing all the way home. Thanks for the help, Tony
 
Have a couple of FEGs and a BHP...
Had the mag-safety removed in all... a new trigger-spring and a reduced #26 hammer spring (#32 is original) in the FEGs (had a 'smith' do the work)...
Big difference... now, some of my favorite shooters!!! Here's one of my FEGs after the work... 2 mags at 10 yards, standing/rapid fire.
I'm a decent shot but not this good... the FEG is 'point-and-shoot'!

TargetFEG1.gif

The 'family'...
3HPs011.jpg
 
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First, if you can hit an eight inch target at one hundred yards you don't need any trigger work, IMHO, your gun is already a doggone target pistol!! In the event you would like to see what is involved in removing the magazine disconnector, there are several good photographic tutorials around on internet gun forums.

In my opinion, removing the magazine disconnector (what you're referring to as the "magazine safety") isn't the cure-all it's cracked up to be. I've removed them from six or seven Hi Power and Hi Power style pistols and it may or may not improve the quality of your trigger pull. On one expensive Browning Hi Power and again on an inexpensive FM 90, removing the magazine disconnector had absolutely no effect at all. I've seen other cases in which it eliminated some scratchiness in the pull, but didn't change the pull weight at all, and a couple of others in which it eliminated some scratchiness, and brought the pull weight down a pound or so to make a really nice trigger. So the effect it will have on your pistol can't be precisely predicted although the promise of a drastically improved trigger pull is almost the holy grail with some Hi Power owners. My experience just doesn't support the latter view. My latest purchase is a new PJK 9HP and it has a beautiful trigger even with the magazine disconnector in it.

Before you go spending a fortune on a trigger job, and they do cost a fortune, field strip the gun and blow out the area around the sear, hammer, safety, etc. i.e. the rear end of the gun, with a pressurized gun solvent. (use goggles, gloves, go outside, etc.) Now cock the hammer and get some oil into the area where the sides of the hammer rub up against the frame on both sides. Then, most importantly, pull the hammer back until it stops and exposes the gap between the sear and the hammer hooks, and get a drop of oil into that gap.

OK, now reach down in the mag well with an oiler and oil the shaft of the disconnector and push it in with your finger against spring tension a few times to make sure it's oiled well enough and moves smoothly. Having done that, it can also help to oil up the face of the magazine where the disconnector engages it. OK, put the gun back together, make sure it is empty, point it in a safe direction and dry fire it several times.The trigger pull may very well be better after you've done these simple things. I would never start spending money on a Hi Power style trigger without first doing these things. Sometimes they completely eliminate the need for trigger work, as does firing the gun a couple of hundred times.

But go one step at a time and don't jump automatically into some unnecessary expense. You don't need to spend a fortune on trigger work just because you own a Hi Power style pistol. Best of luck.

JayPee
 
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Excellent advice JayPee. A good cleaning and oiling as you described made a big difference in my BHP.
 
I had one of those apart recently and found that the end of the trigger spring was scraping the magazine, giving a rather horrible trigger pull. An easy fix, of course, but not an ad for great QC. The mag safety (it is a BHP clone) can be removed, but I wouldn't do it for someone else because of the potential liability problems. A long trigger pull is part of the BHP system; it can't be easily changed.

One note. FEG doesn't tumble their frames and I have often warned about the sharp edges. Do I need to tell you that the first thing I did when I went to work on that gun was to cut myself? I should read what I write.

Jim
 
I don't want to make the mistake of assuming that my FEG HP is indicative of all FEG HPs, but:

1) out of the box, it had a truly horrible, downright offensive trigger. The metal-on-metal sound it made just about made the hair on the back of my neck stand up.

2) with a $59 trigger job, it is now the best trigger I own. Now, it is so slick and clean, I can barely stop dry firing it.

It is hard to justify a $200 trigger job on an inexpensive pistol. But $59 for me was a no brainer to get the amount of happiness I got. Perhaps I was unlucky to get such a bad trigger out of the box, and perhaps I was lucky to get one that cleaned up so well. But for me, a trigger job was well worth it.
 
I just wanted the OP to have a realistic expectation of what removing the magazine disconnector may or may not do for him, and to know that he should try the easy stuff first. Sometimes the presence or absence of a magazine disconnector has nothing to do with a rough trigger. Like I said to the OP, take it one step at a time and start with the easy stuff first.

I also had a FEG with a rough sear that turned out to be a very nice gun after a smithy did his magic with his stoning skills for not much money.
JayPee
 
As the old saying goes "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder"... and so it goes with trigger pulls... a very 'individual' thing!!
As JP perfectly put it... "if you can hit an eight inch target at one hundred yards you don't need any trigger work"
I have purchased four FEGs and ALL have had 'gritty, tough' triggers. I agree 100% with JPs recommendation of working from the 'bottom-up'
(ie. try the easy/basic stuff first!). I also agree with Stringfellow, I would not be inclined to spend $200 on trigger-work, for a $250-300 gun...
my trigger-work was also way under $100, so I gave it a try... with excellent results!

I'm NOT a 'smith' nor a FEG expert (all that I've learned about FEGs has come from JayPee's 'Bible', from Steve Camps BHP Classic and from just the practical experience of owning and shooting a couple of these babies. The 'bottom-line is simply this... the mag-safety, along with its spring, is attached to the trigger. Remove both and you get less pressure/tension on the trigger. Also, by reducing the hammer-spring from #32lbs to #26 (FNs original spec) you again, get less tension on the trigger. These have seemed to work for me AFTER trying the easier recommendations, without much luck.
Either way, FEGs are really great pistols and worth the effort to 'get-em-right' for YOU!

.
 
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thouk:

One more important point is that although JayPee has a low post count here on THR, he is perhaps THE foremost authority on FEGs across multiple forums (and tekarra ain't no slouch either!). As I said, my experience may be a single instance, so you would be wise to listen to him.

With perhaps a little bit of tweaking and some patience, you have snagged one of the best bargains in pistols available these days. Enjoy!
 
I can get the same results out of a $150.00 Makarov on a good day. Then other days I can get a group out of my tweaked and tuned Springer to save my life. It is the shooter and not the gun.

I remember an experiment where we locked down a Glock 17 and could cover the group with a quarter at 25 yards. Then we did the same on a BHP only to find it spraying after the barrel got hot to about 8 inches after 30 rounds. The Glock barrel was much heaver though. The first 25 rounds on the BHP could be cover with a dime. Just saying! There are just so many variables and nothing seems to constant with pistol shooting. Maybe that is what makes it so much fun!
 
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