Keeping Windage Screws Tight

[Flynt]

Two of my center fire rifles, a .338 win Mag and a 300 WSM, have Leupold dovetail sight mounts and rings, with rear windage adjustment screws. I had scopes mounted on them several years ago, and I'm not sure I would have gone with those setups if I knew what I know now. The .338 slid the rings off the mount. It was suggested that I let the screws get loose. I'd light to check the screws on the 300 WSM, but not knowing much about mounting scopes, I don't know how to go about this. I'm afraid that I just start tightening the screws I'll change windage on the scope, which is already zeroed in. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Hungry1]

If the scope mount screws are loose, your zero is already off. If you can easily tighten them, I wouldn't be surprised if your zero changes.

I'd suggest tightening them with an inch-pound torque driver. Reestablish your zero then use loctite and reconfirm again.

I've good success with a Wheeler Fat Wrench.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/71...m-accurizing-torque-torque-wrench-screwdriver

Good Luck

 

[Flynt]

Hungry, thanks for your response. I may be too cautious, but I haven't even touched them. They don't seem loose; I just want to make sure they're properly tightened. (I've got a Wheeler Fat Wrench.) Thanks.

 

[sage5907]

The Leupold STD bases are made so that the scope can be removed by screwing out and removing the right large screw. When this screw is removed the rear of the scope will pivot to the right 90 degrees and the scope will come off the rifle. Before you tighten any screws you need to look under the rear ring base between the two large screws to make sure you can't see any light or separation between the ring base and the base that is screwed to the action. A space between the ring base and the base mounted on the action would indicate the scope was not installed properly in the beginning. Now, when you tighten the rear base scope mount you only want to tighten the large screw on the right. By doing this the rifle zero will remain close to the original zero. If your scope on the other rifle popped out of the rear base that would indicate it was not installed properly or it received a significant bang which was strong enough to dislodge the ring from the base. The scope coming loose may have kept it from being damaged. The large screw on the left is not a windage screw but is used only during the original installation and is used to center the scope over the action and to adjust for bolt handle clearance. You don't need locktite on the screws, just use a large screwdriver and tighten the right screw down firmly. The Leupold STD base is a strong set-up and when installed properly it will withstand heavy usage without problems. I have used them for many years.

 

[sage5907]

Let me give you some helpful information about the original installation of the scope into the Leupold STD bases. After I install the bases on the action I install the front ring by inserting a large wooden dowel stick into the ring and twisting the ring into place. On the rear ring I place the ring base between the large screws and loosely tighten the screws so the ring base is centered on the base that is screwed to the action. I make sure there is no light or separation showing under the ring base. I also set the left ring screw so that the screw slot is horizontal to the action. This is a visual reference so that in the future I can always tell if it has moved. The scope is then installed in the rings and adjusted left or right to center the scope over the rifle and to adjust for bolt handle clearance. Again, the left screw slot is kept horizontal. The vertical crosshair should be pointing down to the center of the bolt. You can see this if you hold the scope about a foot away from your eye. The large screw on the right is the last screw to tighten firmly. The final check is to make sure there is no space between the rear ring base and the base that is screwed to the action. This check is necessary because the holes drilled in some receivers are not in perfect alignment.

 

[Flynt]

Sound like "Sage advice," but I guess you get that a lot!

I'll take a look at my mounts and rings tonight.

For future reference, would I simplify life if I started using the Leupold double dovetail setups? At least on my .338 "thumper?" I know that I'd lose the windage adjustment, but I'd feel like things were more secure.

Thanks!

 

[sage5907]

Flynt, yes I really like the dual dovetail rings and I use them in every instance where they fit the application. They do have some limitations. First, I like a low mounted scope so I use low rings. Sometimes the dual dovetail rings place the scope too close to the bolt handle so the bolt handle will tap the scope when you close the bolt. I don't mind this on an old scope but I won't allow it with a new scope so then I use the STD mounts. Another instance is where Leupold doesn't make dual dovetail bases for that particular rifle. There may be instances where the power adjustment band on a variable scope doesn't have enough room to work with the dual dovetail bases. Like I said, I use the dual dovetail bases in every instance where they will work. Good luck on getting the scope mounts fixed the way you like them.

 

[jmr40]

Those mounts were designed only to be used on rifles where the holes drilled and tapped for scope mounts are not perfectly aligned with the barrel. They let you "fix" a defect on the rifle. If your holes are drilled properly there is no reason to use them.

Years ago this was a very common problem and windage adjustable mounts were very common because they were needed. Very little need on modern rifles, but some guys still use them because that's what grandpa used.

I despise them and have thrown numerous in the trash that came on used rifles I've bought. That would be my advice.

I personally prefer either Talley Lightweights or DNZ mounts. The Burris rings set in Weaver style bases are also very good.

 

[sage5907]

jmr40, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder and that also applies to scope mounts. I recognize that everyone is entitled to their opinion but you need to give grandpa a little more credit. Aluminum allow mounts are bulkier than their steel counterparts and usually have twice as many screws to keep the scope from slipping. Leupold has sold thousands of sets of steel mounts and I doubt if they are very concerned about your business.

 

[Hookeye]

The STD rings are for windage adj if needed and jmr40 is correct. The need should be reduced in today's era but I still see it from time to time.

LGS does a fair volume, used to work there.

Myself? I run Weaver bases and Burris Zee rings on everything, and have for a couple of decades.

No problems.

The Signature version is nice for not marking up scopes, kinda quirky in minor aspects......but if one ends up with a gun where the holes aren't D&T'd in line, they do offer an offset bushing kit.

STD rings aren't bad looking.

Have seen many folks not mount them right or turn in the front by using a scope, or not set the back in line with the front before cranking the top halves down.

Some folks should not own screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, vote or breed.
The amount of d*cked up scope systems you see the week before deer season........

 

[fotheringill]

Don't worry about Locktite being permanent. A dab of Acetone (nail polish remover) will loosen it up when desired.

 

[sage5907]

I just happened to be looking at the Leupold website this morning and I noticed they have a 4 minute tutorial about how to mount a scope. The mount that they used in the tutorial is their standard STD mount which is the point of discussion of this thread.

 

[Gordon]

IMHO all the various adaptations of the old Redfield system like those being discussed here should be discarded for systems that do not use opposing screws to allow adjustment or detaching if you want a reliable tool you can trust, safe queens , and casual use guns and vintage nostalgia stuff exempted. I get catcalls for this statement all the time, but those who use them hard and don't want to be dissappointed and fiddle will agree.