Kel-tec PF9 Trigger reset?

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Am I misunderstanding something here?

When the hammer falls, you get a light strike with insufficient energy to ignite the primer. Try it with real ammo at the range. If you eject the unfired round you will see a dimple in the primer.
 
I lost faith in Gun Tests a long time ago...

+100
for me it was when they reviewed the XD45 and harped on the fact that it didn't have a frame mounted safety... Haven't seen them do this with other autos including Glock, Kahr, Keltec, etc.

I owned a PF9 for a short period, and while it wasn't for me I would definitely recommend the gun for someone who wanted a major caliber pistol in a small package. It was very reliable. After I read the Guntest report I couldn't believe they gave the pistol an F for their failure to learn the manual of arms for a new pistol. I think it is one more example of the writers bias influencing a review and recommendation. Just one more reason I won't be renewing my subscription when it expires.
 
WHAT?? The PF-9 most certainly is not a range gun, and is designed for SD! If you are having trigger reset problems, the problem is you, not the pistol. If you don't think you can remember how to shoot it properly under pressure, it's because you don't know how to shoot properly. We have an expression in the toolroom, "The poor machinist always blames the machine".

I just go by what I am reading on THR. People seem to be using the PF9 as a range gun. They are certainly not "putting 1000 rounds through it...yada yada" in self defense. I guess I really don't know how many rounds qualify a "range gun".

As far as shooting under pressure, not everyone has the skill to focus like a machininst does, where the pressure is extreme when you've got 70-100 hours into a part and you still have the possibility to screw it up. Most people are not machinists and are not used to being "precise under pressure". I am not a machinist and would not want to be precise with a trigger when being assaulted by a BG. My PF9 remains a collector item.
 
Most people are not machinists and are not used to being "precise under pressure". I am not a machinist and would not want to be precise with a trigger when being assaulted by a BG. My PF9 remains a collector item.

There is no such thing as a perfect trigger for everyone. I’m certain that there are some folks that would shoot themselves in the leg drawing a Glock under pressure with it’s light short trigger pull. If you do not believe you can not adjust to Kel-Tec P-32, P-3AT or PF-9 trigger I believe you would do well to sell the pistol and put those dollars into a gun that gives you more fun and protection.
 
When the hammer falls, you get a light strike with insufficient energy to ignite the primer. Try it with real ammo at the range. If you eject the unfired round you will see a dimple in the primer.
Thanks for clarifying, Wilson.

I will try this at the range. Although, I believe I once short-stroked the trigger with live ammo and the round did eventually fire. Maybe that was ammo with a "friendly" primer?
I imagine the behavior could be determined with good reliability by simply assuring that the hammer is pulled back the same distance after short-stroking. If it is pulled back as far as when done properly, the drop should generate the same force. ...at least, I think :) I won't rely on that; I will try it at the range.

Partially loading the hammer reduces the pull length and effort but eliminates your ability to re-strike without retracting the slide.
I think my confusion arose from this post. It gave me the impression that there would be NO re-strike, instead of a light-strike.

As far as the review goes.... I think the short-stroke behavior should be noted information, but I don't think it warrants an "F" rating. My biggest concern with the issue is the misleading reset. It doesn't matter though. It simply reinforces how I feel about any gun - train regularly and know your weapon!
 
I'm sorry, didn't mean to mislead you Shooter. The PF-9, P-32 and P-3AT have a hammer block that holds the hammer partially cocked after firing a shot or racking the slide. Pulling the trigger finishes the cocking and releases it.

Failing to fully release the trigger before pulling it again drops the hammer from the partially cocked position on the hammer block. Many guns WILL fire semi-reliably this way. One fellow was complaining about his pistols spotty reliability and it took a little while before it was figured out that he was shooting it all the time from the semi-cocked position. Once he started fully stroking the trigger his problems went away!

Holding the hammer partially cocked DOES reduce the workload on the trigger pulling it to full cock. That was the intent of the change from P-11 to PF-9 style design. But, the PF-9 type mechanism will NOT re-strike a dud without retracting the slide the aforementioned 1/4" to reset the hammer. The trigger can't pull the hammer from fully down like the P-11 can. You DO have restrike ability with the P-11 so if that is important to you, the 11 is the way to go in the KT line.

Again, sorry if my words confused you. Hope things are clearer now.
 
No problem Rob. Sometimes I read too much into simple things :)

Failing to fully release the trigger before pulling it again drops the hammer from the partially cocked position on the hammer block.
This is NOT the behavior with my PF-9. When the trigger is pulled before it is allowed to fully reset (short-stroke), the hammer does not drop from the half-cocked position. In that instance, the hammer does not move from its half-cocked position (forward or backward), and the trigger is blocked from being pulled. When the trigger is later fully released and pulled, the hammer is pulled back to it's fully-cocked position and dropped.

I used a metal ruler to measure the distance the hammer is pulled back for both instances - a full trigger pull, and an attempted short-stroke followed by a full release and then a full trigger pull. If there is a difference in the amount the hammer is pulled backwards for the full stroke, it is undetectable.

Is it possible that guns made at different times have different designs? My serial number is R3Jxx.
 
Most people are not machinists and are not used to being "precise under pressure". I am not a machinist and would not want to be precise with a trigger when being assaulted by a BG. My PF9 remains a collector item.

There's nothing precise about firing a PF9. Squeeze-release-squeeze-release-squeeze-release.............

Kinda like every other gun out there.
 
Is it possible that guns made at different times have different designs? My serial number is R3Jxx.

No, this is the same trigger system that Kel-Tec introduced with the P-32 a dozen years ago. Try short stroking it with live ammo. If it goes bang rather than producing a dimple when short stroked, your hammer block is not properly protecting you from a ND or your firing pin spring doesn’t have the proper tension.
 
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