1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
I just had one of the most enjoyable weekends that I can remember. Ken Rainey and his lovely wife came all the way up from Mississippi to visit for a few days. I now consider them family at a distance. Ken is the image of the slow-walkin, slow-talkin southern boy who never gets excited or rattled until it's time to get that way, and Della is a true Southern Belle. Gracious and genteel in her speech and manners, and never without a smile...ever...not even when she's mere seconds from strangling Ken.
Of course we went to shoot a few hundred rounds, and we had an interesting experience. Ken had upgraded an older Kimber Classic a few months ago, and had a little problem with hammer follow. We E-mail tagged back and forth a few times, and the problem was resolved...or so we thought. He reported that the pistol was still a little lighter in the trigger than he was comfortable with..though he had fired about 250 rounds through it without a problem, and one of the first things that we did was to open it up for a look-see. I did all the standard things...bent the sear spring legs forward a little...Cleaned up the hammer hooks and checked'em for even engagement on the sear...Stoned a little off the backside of the sear to get the hooks to sit a little deeper in the hammer. The trigger felt a little better to him, so off the the range we went early Monday.
About 2/3rds of the way through the ammo, he had a stoppage. The hammer had followed to half-cock. A second try gave him a followdown to the slide. He unloaded the gun and handed it to me for a check. I got it to follow to the slide...but the odd thing was that it would only do it when the trigger was pulled...which is exactly backward.
I loaded 3 rounds in a magazine...tripped the slidestop, got a grip on the gun, and pulled the trigger. 3 rounds went downrange so quick that it sounded like one shot. NOT good...We burned up the rest of the ammo playing with it, and headed home to fix it. It was a long ride for Ken...He kept muttering about how he'd screwed it up tryin' to make it better..
Here's what I found:
The disconnect was making very light contact on the bottoms of the sear legs. When the sear tried to reset, it got stopped on the tips of the hammer hooks, setting the hammer up for a jar-off...and it worked rather well.
I used my hammer hook file to knock a little off the top of the disconnector paddle to keep it from touching the sear legs, and scraped the timing slot in the slide a little deeper to restore the disconnect's contact area with the sear when the disconnect was in the fire position.
Then I noticed something strange about the sear spring...The center leg had a slight kink about an eighth of an inch from the top. It was barely touching the 48 degree angle on the back of the disconnect...keeping it from fully resetting. That little kink in the spring was resetting the disconnect just on the edge of the sear legs...and the two problems
worked together to virtually insure a full-auto 1911 pistol. I hadn't noticed the kink before...probably because I wasn't looking for it...but I had noticed that the slide was extremely hard to hand-cycle, especially with the hammer down. Odd...but I didn't really think about it until the burst-fire started.
The center leg of the spring looked to be about a 32nd inch shorter than a stock Colt spring (estimated) and the only thing that I can figure is that when the disconnector was pushed down by the slide, the tip of the spring got into a bind with the angle on the back of the disconnect...and it kinked the spring ever-so-slightly...Just enough to put the convex part of the kink against the disconnect, and push it back up about a fourth of the way...right on the corners of the sear legs.
I replaced the sear spring with a good one. The trigger pull felt about a pound and a half heavier, and the hammer follow and burst-fire were gone. The more I study on it, the more I think that the sear spring was more responsible than the disconnector dragging on the sear legs. Now, if I can just figger out exactly where to put that kink....
The moral of this story is:
It just might drop in and work...but don't bet on it.
Wish I'd had a camera to capture the look on his face when that pistol took off...
Of course we went to shoot a few hundred rounds, and we had an interesting experience. Ken had upgraded an older Kimber Classic a few months ago, and had a little problem with hammer follow. We E-mail tagged back and forth a few times, and the problem was resolved...or so we thought. He reported that the pistol was still a little lighter in the trigger than he was comfortable with..though he had fired about 250 rounds through it without a problem, and one of the first things that we did was to open it up for a look-see. I did all the standard things...bent the sear spring legs forward a little...Cleaned up the hammer hooks and checked'em for even engagement on the sear...Stoned a little off the backside of the sear to get the hooks to sit a little deeper in the hammer. The trigger felt a little better to him, so off the the range we went early Monday.
About 2/3rds of the way through the ammo, he had a stoppage. The hammer had followed to half-cock. A second try gave him a followdown to the slide. He unloaded the gun and handed it to me for a check. I got it to follow to the slide...but the odd thing was that it would only do it when the trigger was pulled...which is exactly backward.
I loaded 3 rounds in a magazine...tripped the slidestop, got a grip on the gun, and pulled the trigger. 3 rounds went downrange so quick that it sounded like one shot. NOT good...We burned up the rest of the ammo playing with it, and headed home to fix it. It was a long ride for Ken...He kept muttering about how he'd screwed it up tryin' to make it better..
Here's what I found:
The disconnect was making very light contact on the bottoms of the sear legs. When the sear tried to reset, it got stopped on the tips of the hammer hooks, setting the hammer up for a jar-off...and it worked rather well.
I used my hammer hook file to knock a little off the top of the disconnector paddle to keep it from touching the sear legs, and scraped the timing slot in the slide a little deeper to restore the disconnect's contact area with the sear when the disconnect was in the fire position.
Then I noticed something strange about the sear spring...The center leg had a slight kink about an eighth of an inch from the top. It was barely touching the 48 degree angle on the back of the disconnect...keeping it from fully resetting. That little kink in the spring was resetting the disconnect just on the edge of the sear legs...and the two problems
worked together to virtually insure a full-auto 1911 pistol. I hadn't noticed the kink before...probably because I wasn't looking for it...but I had noticed that the slide was extremely hard to hand-cycle, especially with the hammer down. Odd...but I didn't really think about it until the burst-fire started.
The center leg of the spring looked to be about a 32nd inch shorter than a stock Colt spring (estimated) and the only thing that I can figure is that when the disconnector was pushed down by the slide, the tip of the spring got into a bind with the angle on the back of the disconnect...and it kinked the spring ever-so-slightly...Just enough to put the convex part of the kink against the disconnect, and push it back up about a fourth of the way...right on the corners of the sear legs.
I replaced the sear spring with a good one. The trigger pull felt about a pound and a half heavier, and the hammer follow and burst-fire were gone. The more I study on it, the more I think that the sear spring was more responsible than the disconnector dragging on the sear legs. Now, if I can just figger out exactly where to put that kink....
The moral of this story is:
It just might drop in and work...but don't bet on it.
Wish I'd had a camera to capture the look on his face when that pistol took off...
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