disconnect problem?
- Thread starter andrew17
- Start date
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Ok I FINALLY figured out what the hang-up was with the disconnect.
Mr. Fuff was right when he asked if something had changed with a previously working pistol its just I didn’t think to look there.
After foolin around with this thing for say ½ hour a day for about 2 weeks I disassembled it and tried to take a fresh look at what the problem was.
What I noticed was there is a rubbed shiny spot on the bottom corner of the front of the disconnect. It is located on the corner of the outside of the sear pin channel facing towards the mag well. DING DING DING. A light went on in my little bitty head.
I reassembled the gun, and I tried to see if the gun would hang up without a mag inserted. Nada, I couldn’t get her to stall. So I tried a different mag. Yep wouldn’t reset when the slide was easily lowered into battery. Then I tried the mag that had been used with the gun for years which was a 2-dollar gun show thin walled round-topped follower H.O.C. (hunk of crap). Ahh haa! Houston we have reset…
The disconnect was rubbing on the magazine.
Well, since I now own this gun (used to be my father’s) and I am a follower of the Tuner school of magazine doctrine, I tried to radius the “rubbin” part of the disconnect so I could use my mags in the gun. I took off a little with a needle file but couldn’t get it to clear. It didn’t matter much because I had already done what I do best, I killed the disconnect about a week before. Let me explain.
In my search of what was hanging it up, I noticed that the disconnect paddles were off kilter. One was taller than the other by about .003. I theorized that this was somehow getting the disconnect in a bind when it went to slide forward off the sear legs and reset.
And hey, It’s only .003 whets that gonna hurt right? Anyhoo, the engagement surfaces between this disconnect and sear were Very slight anyway and I killed it.
Usually I would be more upset/annoyed that the Killed parts jar had gotten a new entry but This disconnect didn’t die in vein because I learned through its death a little more about JMB’s wonderful creation.
By the way, If your in search of a forged machined or machined bar stock disconnect and you come across the one by briley as advertised in brownells, the description says bar stock but it’s a cast part. I called them about it and the nice lady I spoke with really didn’t know the difference. I decided to let it go and eat the 20 bucks and I suggested she inform the brownells web page guys and she said she would.
For now, I’m using the briley, I even took it to the range and test fired it (Real smart, yeah I know
) starting with one round then two then three. I’m gonna limit use of it until I can get down to the Guru’s workshop slash coffee table so He can make sure this disconnect is disconnectin early enough and give it a once over and his Tuner OSHA stamp of approval (Read safety check).
Onward and well,,,,,,,,, onward.
Mr. Fuff was right when he asked if something had changed with a previously working pistol its just I didn’t think to look there.
After foolin around with this thing for say ½ hour a day for about 2 weeks I disassembled it and tried to take a fresh look at what the problem was.
What I noticed was there is a rubbed shiny spot on the bottom corner of the front of the disconnect. It is located on the corner of the outside of the sear pin channel facing towards the mag well. DING DING DING. A light went on in my little bitty head.
I reassembled the gun, and I tried to see if the gun would hang up without a mag inserted. Nada, I couldn’t get her to stall. So I tried a different mag. Yep wouldn’t reset when the slide was easily lowered into battery. Then I tried the mag that had been used with the gun for years which was a 2-dollar gun show thin walled round-topped follower H.O.C. (hunk of crap). Ahh haa! Houston we have reset…
The disconnect was rubbing on the magazine.
Well, since I now own this gun (used to be my father’s) and I am a follower of the Tuner school of magazine doctrine, I tried to radius the “rubbin” part of the disconnect so I could use my mags in the gun. I took off a little with a needle file but couldn’t get it to clear. It didn’t matter much because I had already done what I do best, I killed the disconnect about a week before. Let me explain.
In my search of what was hanging it up, I noticed that the disconnect paddles were off kilter. One was taller than the other by about .003. I theorized that this was somehow getting the disconnect in a bind when it went to slide forward off the sear legs and reset.
And hey, It’s only .003 whets that gonna hurt right? Anyhoo, the engagement surfaces between this disconnect and sear were Very slight anyway and I killed it.
Usually I would be more upset/annoyed that the Killed parts jar had gotten a new entry but This disconnect didn’t die in vein because I learned through its death a little more about JMB’s wonderful creation.
By the way, If your in search of a forged machined or machined bar stock disconnect and you come across the one by briley as advertised in brownells, the description says bar stock but it’s a cast part. I called them about it and the nice lady I spoke with really didn’t know the difference. I decided to let it go and eat the 20 bucks and I suggested she inform the brownells web page guys and she said she would.
For now, I’m using the briley, I even took it to the range and test fired it (Real smart, yeah I know
) starting with one round then two then three. I’m gonna limit use of it until I can get down to the Guru’s workshop slash coffee table so He can make sure this disconnect is disconnectin early enough and give it a once over and his Tuner OSHA stamp of approval (Read safety check).Onward and well,,,,,,,,, onward.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Rubbin'
Andrew! Kudos on your diagnosis! Ya done good, lad!
That corner has been radiused as SOP during manufacture for a long time now, but once in a while, a spec or tolerance stack issue with the frame and disconnector location will let the corner protrude far enough to contact the magazine...which can also cause a VERY hairy trigger on the first round after a mag-slam reload. I'm talkin' down into the 1-pound bracket...or even as far as causing the sear to trip as the mag is slammed home. Scary stuff, and dangerous as a troupe of Hell's Belles.
(No need to ask. You already know how I know that.)
It's true that Briley has gone to casting their excellent disconnects after years of being the last bastion for supplying machined steel units. I have the 3 last machined Brileys that Brownells had, since when they told me that they had 3 in stock of the four that I wanted... I took'em all...and they're still pristine and unused. (Nope. Not for sale.) So...All you folks who wanted steel Brileys last year and didn't get'em...you can blame me.
I put the 4th one on back-order and when it came...it was a casting.
The quality is very good, and the prep and polishing is already done, as in the past. I went ahead and installed the cast unit in one of my beaters and have put it through the wringer in usual fashion. So far, so good...with no
undue wear and perfect function. The round count is up to about 10,000
in that pistol...so it seems to be holding up to my sadistic practices pretty well.
Andrew! Kudos on your diagnosis! Ya done good, lad!
That corner has been radiused as SOP during manufacture for a long time now, but once in a while, a spec or tolerance stack issue with the frame and disconnector location will let the corner protrude far enough to contact the magazine...which can also cause a VERY hairy trigger on the first round after a mag-slam reload. I'm talkin' down into the 1-pound bracket...or even as far as causing the sear to trip as the mag is slammed home. Scary stuff, and dangerous as a troupe of Hell's Belles.
(No need to ask. You already know how I know that.)
It's true that Briley has gone to casting their excellent disconnects after years of being the last bastion for supplying machined steel units. I have the 3 last machined Brileys that Brownells had, since when they told me that they had 3 in stock of the four that I wanted... I took'em all...and they're still pristine and unused. (Nope. Not for sale.) So...All you folks who wanted steel Brileys last year and didn't get'em...you can blame me.
I put the 4th one on back-order and when it came...it was a casting.
The quality is very good, and the prep and polishing is already done, as in the past. I went ahead and installed the cast unit in one of my beaters and have put it through the wringer in usual fashion. So far, so good...with no
undue wear and perfect function. The round count is up to about 10,000
in that pistol...so it seems to be holding up to my sadistic practices pretty well.
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