Kimber 1911 Question

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Dr. Loomis

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I have a question for my fellow gun enthusiasts. I just bought a Kimber Custom ii but I am hesitant to fire it because I may want to sell it for an HK USP .45, which I've always wanted. My issue for wanting to sell it is the reported break-in period on the 1911. Can anyone tell me why in the world it takes hundreds of rounds to get all the kinks out of the Kimber? I keep seeing a lot of reviews online where people say their Kimber or 1911 (whatever brand) jammed until about 400 or so rounds were put through it. Please let me know if you guys know these things to be true. I love the Kimber Custom's feel and is great to conceal beneath my suits for daily carry. Thanks for any help guys.
 
Though I am a believer in break in period for pistols I think Kimbers expectations are somewhat excessive. OTOH not all Kimbers actually take 500 or even 100 rounds to be broken in. Most do not. I really tend to think there are greater problems than a gun no being broken in going on when a pistol fails consistently after even 100-200 rounds.
 
The break-in period is just something some makers use to avoid having people call them up right away and say "my gun jammed. it there's something wrong with it. will you fix it for free?"

After 100 rounds a gun is broken in. If there is going to be a major issue it has already reared it's head.

I like to break a gun in like I would a varmint rifle. Shoot one round, let it cool, clean it, shoot another. I do that for the first 10 rounds. Then I I fire one full mag, slow fire. Let it cool and clean it.

At that point, if there are no issues, I fire a mag rapid fire at multiple targets, changing target with every round.

If no issues, I double tap at a multiple targets, changing targets after every double tap.

Clean.

Then shoot 100 rounds any way I feel like it. If it has not yet malfunctioned it is very unlikely it will malfunction under normal circumstances.

If, at any point, it malfunctions, I put it away and take it home to analyze the type of failure.

Assuming you properly cleaned and lubed the gun before firing, 90 percent of failures are spring issues. The remaining 10 percent are evenly divided between extractor and machining problems.

Generally machining problems are visible.

The unknown here is ammo. Handloaded ammo can cause a lot of problems when it is poorly done.

OTOH, some types of factory ammo are just plain crap and can cause the finest gun to appear to be junk.

Bottom line is: it's a gun, shoot it; if it doesn't work - fix it.
 
I'll throw this out for what it is worth.

I have heard MANY 1911 aficianados state that Kimber was the company that kicked the other 1911 makers out of a slump, and the first maker to look at what people were paying custom gunsmiths to do, then put those same changes on their handguns straight from the factory. The Series I Kimber pistols are highly regarded.

However, these same folks tell me that the Kimber Custom II is NOT on the same level as the Kimber Custom (series 1). The Custom II is ammo finnicky and has some other issues that I will leave for more technical people to tackle, but basically the Custom II is riding on the great brand name Kimber developed, a reputation that model does not deserve.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1358161&page=1

Ask on a dedicated 1911 forum for more information.
 
I'll tell you what I'd do

First let me say that I own a Kimber, which I bought slighty used. The gun as it turns out was three years old but, from all appearances, had been shot very little. There was some wear on the ambi safety which makes me believe that it had been carried a fair amount. Other than that, it looked brand new. I too had heard the rumors about Kimbers not feeding etc but decided to buy the gun anway since it was an $1100 gun and I was picking it up for $700. I figured for that price I could put some work into it and still come out good. Well, it lived up to the horror stories, I couldn't get it to feed ball ammo reliably. The good news is that a friend of mine who is a gunsmith fixed it for $50 bucks and now it is just as reliable as an old dog.

So, since you already own it, go out and shoot it. If it jambs more than a couple rounds in the first hundred you have a couple of choices. You could just fire the 500 rounds that they recomend and see if it comes out of it. That will cost you about $200 in ammo at todays prices. Or you could send it back to the factory and have them fix it and repeat the "break in process". You could also do what I did. A good smith will tune the extractor, which is the main problem with these, and polish the feed ramp. That is probably all you will need.
 
My Custom II shot flawlessly out of the box. I use Chip McCormick Power Mags exclusively.

The only problems I have had were self inflicted handloads that were seated too long.

Still, if you want the HK, you're not going to be happy until you get it.
 
I have two Kimbers, a Custom TLE/RL II and an Ultra CDP II. For the most part they have been 100% reliable. The only issue I had was with the TLE which suffered from PSL or Pre-mature Slide Lock. This was apparently due to the slide stop being out of spec. Kimber sent me a slightly modified stop which fixed the problem. Other then that I have over 500 rounds through the TLE with no jams and almost 500 rounds through the CDP with 0 issues. For me they have been very reliable. If I could carry one I would not have any reservations (but as I live in California I can't).

As for the break in period, I agree with other posts that its Kimbers way of saying don't call use when the gun jams until you reach the 500 round mark. But to be fair with any new gun I like to run a couple hundred rounds through just to see if anything shows up (as it did with the TLE which is now fixed). This is good just to make sure I am well acquainted with the function and characteristics of a new gun. I usually start feeling comfortable with a new gun after 200 to 300 rounds anyway and another 200 to 300 rounds does not hurt.

Besides whats a new gun for anyway, they got to be shot and shot a lot.

KeithET
 
As always, you all have some very good opinions. I greatly appreciate it all. As one comment stated, "So sell the Kimber and get the HK. You won't be happy until you do." I'm very tempted to do this and if I still want the Kimber I can always buy another one in the future.
 
as noted by others....

you should shoot it enough to MAKE SURE it won't fail you in a situation that a semiauto handgun is designed for. i don't really care about what make or model it may be. be sure before you bet your life on it.

gunnie
 
So sell the Kimber unshot and get the H&K.
It will be worth more and you will not have to agonize over Internet Horror Stories.
Agreed. get what you want. For what it is worth, my CDP II Ultra ran 100% from round one. So did my Pro, but I sold it in preference of the Ultra. :)
 
My Custom II now wears a .22 kit permanently, but before that it fired ~6000 rounds of .45 with 2 malfunctions - failures to return to battery between rounds 300 and 400. I've had experience with another 4 or 5 Kimbers various friends own, the only one that didn't run fine out of the box was an Ultra CDP that needed about 150 rounds to slick up and run smooth. It hasn't malfed since.

I don't really understand the internet hate for breakin periods. 500 rounds is not that much shooting, and I've never seen a gun that actually needed that many to work properly. Even my super-tight Baer was reliable after the first 200, though it was almost 3000 before it stopped feeling smoother every time I shot it. If its a range toy, what's the big deal about clear and FTE or FTF every few mags? And if its a defensive gun, you should be putting that much or more through it before you deem it reliable anyway. And its not just a Kimber thing, either. All my pistols, even the tacticool plastic one, operated more smoothly after a few hundred rounds through it. The parts just need to wear together before they reach their maximum potential. With tighter guns function might be inhibited slightly before the parts wear together. So either you do it yourself and get the benefit from the practice, or the company does it at the factory and adds the cost of a few hundred rounds of ammo and their time to the pistol.

That said, if you want the HK, get the HK.
 
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Les Baer pistols...which are arguably the tightest fit 1911s on the market (try hand cycling the slide on a brand new one and you'll see what I mean) don't need any break-in. They run right out of the box. If something would need a break-in you think it would be theirs. But nope...because they're well made. I think "break-ins" are a way of letting moving parts that aren't fit well or not finished well work out the kinks on their own.
 
Les Baer pistols...which are arguably the tightest fit 1911s on the market (try hand cycling the slide on a brand new one and you'll see what I mean) don't need any break-in. They run right out of the box.

Mine would fail to return to battery ever couple mags until I had 150-200 through it.
 
I've had at least eight Kimbers over the years. Only my very first had any 'teething' issues. All others have run 100% straight out of the box.
 
Mine would fail to return to battery ever couple mags until I had 150-200 through it.

Ok, maybe I should have said "almost all Les Baer 1911s" instead. No one is perfect.
 
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