silverhand65
Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2010
- Messages
- 2
Just bought a Kimber 1911 custom II. I have never owned one before and was wondering if there is any worth while upgrades and if there is anything that is important to know about this gun.
Kimber 1911 upgrades
- Thread starter silverhand65
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My Kimber experiences have always been bad. Have you fired it yet to see if it cycles properly? You may need to spend your money getting the gun in working order. Also, Kimber advises a 500 round break in. That will run you around $200 right there.
possum
Member
welcome to thr.
buy ammo, and some chip mccormick mags and go to town. I have no issues with kimber pro tac mags either, however the chips were my go to mags when i had a 1911.
I would put a nice set of grips on it if you don't like the ones that came on it. I personally have a thing for tan and black so i would put a set of tan gunner grips on there.
another inexpensive and easy thing to do that will enhance the mag well/ reload times, is a wilson combat ez mag well. They are like $25 on www.brownells.com. It gives your well a little flare but is still low profile.
buy ammo, and some chip mccormick mags and go to town. I have no issues with kimber pro tac mags either, however the chips were my go to mags when i had a 1911.
I would put a nice set of grips on it if you don't like the ones that came on it. I personally have a thing for tan and black so i would put a set of tan gunner grips on there.
another inexpensive and easy thing to do that will enhance the mag well/ reload times, is a wilson combat ez mag well. They are like $25 on www.brownells.com. It gives your well a little flare but is still low profile.
I have owned 5 kimbers. I kept falling in love with the way they looked. They truly are some of the best looking 1911s on the market. So I would buy one, only to discover it could not cycle reliably, either FTF or FTE. Kimbers customer service was uniformly poor, they always talked about the 500 round break in period (which never fixed anything), then were reluctant to let me ship it back to them, and when I did, they would send it back to me with the exact same problem.
The models I had were the Kimber Custom II, CDP, Target II, and Eclipse. There was one other I had which was a stainless model with front strap checkering but I dont remember what they called it.
Anyway, finally after 5 kimbers, I gave up. I would not own a Kimber today if one was given to me. I kept hoping that I was just having bad luck and the next one would run reliably. Either Kimber has a QA problem, or I had an extremely bad run of luck.
The models I had were the Kimber Custom II, CDP, Target II, and Eclipse. There was one other I had which was a stainless model with front strap checkering but I dont remember what they called it.
Anyway, finally after 5 kimbers, I gave up. I would not own a Kimber today if one was given to me. I kept hoping that I was just having bad luck and the next one would run reliably. Either Kimber has a QA problem, or I had an extremely bad run of luck.
Old krow
Member
Another vote for Chip McCormick mags and ammo. I put a set of grips on mine and have the magwell, aside from that, all the money goes downrange.
I like shooting mine and so far I haven't had any issues with it.
I like shooting mine and so far I haven't had any issues with it.
I have two Kimbers. The first one, a Stainless II, I replaced the factory sights with fiber optic/tritium sights. I had quite a few failures to fire. The firing pin wouldn't hit hard enough. So, I removed the Schwartz safety spring and block in the slide (under the rear sight) and I have not had a problem since. (I know that's a no-no.) The second Kimber came with night sights and I have not had any problems what-so-ever in the several thousand rounds through that gun. When I compare the my Kimbers to my Springfield Armory 1911s, the Kimbers are slicker and smoother to shoot and look at. They also weigh a bit less. Of course they cost more too. I guess I am just partial to 1911s.
QUICK_DRAW_McGRAW
Member
some grips that look good, and chip mags. i use them in my tarus pt1911 and love them
Copernicus
Member
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2010
- Messages
- 27
I've got a Pro Tle that shoots like a champ. I'm adding an extended slide stop for easier access and I'm gonna give it a bob job. Ill post pics when I'm finished with it
I have a Kimber Tactical Entry II and the thing is AWESOME!! It is a very accurate pistol with my reloads. It was running perfectly before I did the upgrades but I wanted to reduce the chance of a failure during an IPSC match. Before I go into the details, almost every MIM part that came out of the Kimber was easily recognizable as MIM. This was not the case for the extractor which has none of the tell-tale marks on it that's typical of MIM. Maybe it's not MIM ... I'm not sure. Anyway, here's what I've done so far and I really enjoyed the whole experience.
Bought a bunch of Wilson Combat magazines that work very well
Removed the firing pin safety and related parts
Ed Brown parts
Tactical extended thumb safety (non-ambi)
Sear
Hammer
Hammer strut
Slide stop
Ejector
Extractor
Disconnector
Every pin, plunger and plunger spring
Mainspring and sear spring
Barrel bushing
Barrel link
Firing pin, spring and stop
Videki NM trigger
Extended mag release (not installed yet)
Cylinder and Slide
G-10 grips
Wilson Combat
One-piece guide rod
Recoil spring plug
18lb spring
Once I get the mag release changed out I'm done with the upgrades. I put over 100 rounds through it this past Sunday and I love this pistol ... this is sacrilege but I like it more than my Ed Brown at the moment. The Ed Brown is a "buy it, shoot it, don't mess with it" kind of pistol since there's nothing to improve. I feel more invested in the Kimber because I did the work myself. Here it is in its current form.
Bought a bunch of Wilson Combat magazines that work very well
Removed the firing pin safety and related parts
Ed Brown parts
Tactical extended thumb safety (non-ambi)
Sear
Hammer
Hammer strut
Slide stop
Ejector
Extractor
Disconnector
Every pin, plunger and plunger spring
Mainspring and sear spring
Barrel bushing
Barrel link
Firing pin, spring and stop
Videki NM trigger
Extended mag release (not installed yet)
Cylinder and Slide
G-10 grips
Wilson Combat
One-piece guide rod
Recoil spring plug
18lb spring
Once I get the mag release changed out I'm done with the upgrades. I put over 100 rounds through it this past Sunday and I love this pistol ... this is sacrilege but I like it more than my Ed Brown at the moment. The Ed Brown is a "buy it, shoot it, don't mess with it" kind of pistol since there's nothing to improve. I feel more invested in the Kimber because I did the work myself. Here it is in its current form.
Last edited:
Balrog said:
My Kimber needed about 5 rounds to start working perfectly but that's because I switched to factory ammunition after trying five of my 185gr SWC reloads. If I'd started with factory 230gr FMJ it wouldn't have needed any break in at all. It's been perfect out of the box with factory 230gr FMJ. With Wilson Combat magazines it's perfect with 185gr SWC, 200gr RNFP and factory 230gr FMJ. I did have an issue with tuning the Ed Brown extractor after I installed it, but that's hardly Kimber's fault. The Kimber extractor has always worked properly.
orionengnr
Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2005
- Messages
- 5,713
Well, we've only owned eight so far. 
Each has worked perfectly from round #1, so I've never had occasion to contact Kimber CS.
I have added a set of burlwood grips to one, a set of TruGlo TFO sights to another, and a set of Crimson Trace laser grips to the wife's Ultra CDP. Took the ambi safeties off of each one that was so equipped.
Funny, mine all work with any old 1911 mag I can find in the safe or range bag--this includes Kimber mags, Colt mags, Wilson mags, and a few unidentified mags. For carry, I stick to the stainless Kimber mags...."just cause".
Run some ammo through it, figure out what you would like to do to it and how much you want to spend.
Enjoy.
Each has worked perfectly from round #1, so I've never had occasion to contact Kimber CS.I have added a set of burlwood grips to one, a set of TruGlo TFO sights to another, and a set of Crimson Trace laser grips to the wife's Ultra CDP. Took the ambi safeties off of each one that was so equipped.
Funny, mine all work with any old 1911 mag I can find in the safe or range bag--this includes Kimber mags, Colt mags, Wilson mags, and a few unidentified mags. For carry, I stick to the stainless Kimber mags...."just cause".
Run some ammo through it, figure out what you would like to do to it and how much you want to spend.
Enjoy.
could do a wilson recoil buff $1 and replace the plastic firing pin housing with a steel one or a housing and mag well combo.
night sights etc.
laser grips
not really to much you can do to make it much better than it comes from the factory already
night sights etc.
laser grips
not really to much you can do to make it much better than it comes from the factory already
rbernie
Contributing Member
I've owned more Kimbers than I have fingers, and all left me very satisfied with the experience. Several saw greater than 10K rounds worth of use without quarrel or issue; not really used hard but used enough such that any manufacturing flaws would likely have surfaced.
The Custom II comes with the upgrades that (IMO) are worth having (e.g. extended thumb safety, beavertail grip safety, etc.) and none that are not (extended slide stop, ambi thumb safety) so I can think of nothing worth changing in terms of parts - certainly not until you shoot it for a while and determine how the ergonomics work for you. I usually sell/gift the Kimber mags to someone and use the Colt/Checkmate tapered lip magazines, since they've proven to be the most tolerant magazines and therefore the most reliable in all my 1911s. Other than possibly swapping the stock mags for the Checkmates, about the only thing that you need to do is save your pennies for ammo and then take the gun to the range frequently.
As Dave McCracken would say - the most important thing to do at this point is to BA/UU/R. (Buy Ammo/Use Up/Repeat)
The Custom II comes with the upgrades that (IMO) are worth having (e.g. extended thumb safety, beavertail grip safety, etc.) and none that are not (extended slide stop, ambi thumb safety) so I can think of nothing worth changing in terms of parts - certainly not until you shoot it for a while and determine how the ergonomics work for you. I usually sell/gift the Kimber mags to someone and use the Colt/Checkmate tapered lip magazines, since they've proven to be the most tolerant magazines and therefore the most reliable in all my 1911s. Other than possibly swapping the stock mags for the Checkmates, about the only thing that you need to do is save your pennies for ammo and then take the gun to the range frequently.
As Dave McCracken would say - the most important thing to do at this point is to BA/UU/R. (Buy Ammo/Use Up/Repeat)
xr1200 said:
You mean the mainspring housing (MSH) right? My TEII came with a nicely checkered STEEL mainspring housing. I've heard that some Kimbers have plastic ones but I don't know which models.
rbernie said:
I agree with this for the most part for most owners although the ambi-safety had to go. I should stress that I "upgraded" many parts because I wanted to and not necessarily because I needed to. I wanted to learn about the 1911 platform and I did learn a lot by doing the work myself. This Kimber will see maybe 5,000 to 8,000 rounds of hard use a year so I wanted to reduce the chances of a failure during a 150 to 200 round match.
dcarch
Member
I swapped out the junk mag that came with it for a Wilson 47D, and I put in a recoil spring plug instead of the FLGR (just my own personal preference). I'm gonna get some VZ's for it eventually, as well as some Meprolight sights. I love mine! Have fun, bro, and welcome to the 1911 world!
Firearm break in is a myth, your never going to cause enough wear on the gun to make it function better than it comes from the factory with only 250-500 rounds.
This is a BS sales and marketing ploy to get customers to shoot more ammo and spend more.
Ask yourself this, why would a firearms manufacturer sell a new gun that required a break in to function properly.
Either a firearm is properly assembled and tunned when it leaves the factory or it isn't tunned properly and malfunctions.
Also look at any blued semi auto pistol that has about 300 rounds thru it and you will see that most of the blued finish is still on the gun on the moving surfaces.
So if a gun is properly lubricated, you will never break in anything.
One other thing if a firearms company sold a gun that failed to function properly and released it to the general public, then they are easily sued.
If you want to similate a 250 round break in, just get some reloaded dummie rounds and cycle them repeatedly by hand and pulling the trigger after each shot and save the money. if you believe you have to break in a gun.
This is a BS sales and marketing ploy to get customers to shoot more ammo and spend more.
Ask yourself this, why would a firearms manufacturer sell a new gun that required a break in to function properly.
Either a firearm is properly assembled and tunned when it leaves the factory or it isn't tunned properly and malfunctions.
Also look at any blued semi auto pistol that has about 300 rounds thru it and you will see that most of the blued finish is still on the gun on the moving surfaces.
So if a gun is properly lubricated, you will never break in anything.
One other thing if a firearms company sold a gun that failed to function properly and released it to the general public, then they are easily sued.
If you want to similate a 250 round break in, just get some reloaded dummie rounds and cycle them repeatedly by hand and pulling the trigger after each shot and save the money. if you believe you have to break in a gun.
I don't own a Kimber, But my RIA CS Officer loves Kimber mags.
I do run 47D's in my Gov. 1911 tho.
Ive never owned a Kimber and frankly the Internet wouldn't help, But i dont own one as i cant afford it. Most of my guns range in the $450-$700 range so im always just shy of owning one.
But if i did have that kind of cash id most likley buy something else anyhow. Now thats not fair to Kimber on my end as i try and give anyone a fair shake.
But with that much money on the line i wouldn't take any chances.
I do run 47D's in my Gov. 1911 tho.
Ive never owned a Kimber and frankly the Internet wouldn't help, But i dont own one as i cant afford it. Most of my guns range in the $450-$700 range so im always just shy of owning one.
But if i did have that kind of cash id most likley buy something else anyhow. Now thats not fair to Kimber on my end as i try and give anyone a fair shake.
But with that much money on the line i wouldn't take any chances.
Zerodefect
member
I'm rebuilding my CDP, love it's melted look/feel.
-Ed Brown Paddle safety. I cut it to fit my thumb, tear drop shaped paddle now. What a nightmare it was getting this thing to work, never again. Maybe I should have started with a Wilson safety. The EB safety was like trying to file a Ford 460 cylinder head into a 1911 safety. Way oversized.
-Ed Brown Mainspring housing (had to file corners of frame for a proper look)
-Heine Ledge plain rear sight
-Dawson .090x.180tall front FO sight
-EdBrown Pins and springs
-Wolff recoil spring
-Wilson and Tripp mags
-Removed all the SeriesII parts
-then recut the sear/hammer/disconnector ( knocked about 1lb off trigger pull)
-Alumagrips slim grips
-Kimber tactical bump grip safety (this is a must have!!!!! way better feel out of a Kimber, combining this plus trimming the trailing edge of the thumb safeties paddle really makes this gun much quicker out of the holster, no more worries about not actuating the grip safety with a thumb over safety grip. Dropped right in, no fitting, that's why they use MIM, no fitting req.)
I still have to drill the thumbsafety detent some more. If she looks good after being refinished all black (including the grips) I'll put some Wilson trigger parts in.
-Ed Brown Paddle safety. I cut it to fit my thumb, tear drop shaped paddle now. What a nightmare it was getting this thing to work, never again. Maybe I should have started with a Wilson safety. The EB safety was like trying to file a Ford 460 cylinder head into a 1911 safety. Way oversized.
-Ed Brown Mainspring housing (had to file corners of frame for a proper look)
-Heine Ledge plain rear sight
-Dawson .090x.180tall front FO sight
-EdBrown Pins and springs
-Wolff recoil spring
-Wilson and Tripp mags
-Removed all the SeriesII parts
-then recut the sear/hammer/disconnector ( knocked about 1lb off trigger pull)
-Alumagrips slim grips
-Kimber tactical bump grip safety (this is a must have!!!!! way better feel out of a Kimber, combining this plus trimming the trailing edge of the thumb safeties paddle really makes this gun much quicker out of the holster, no more worries about not actuating the grip safety with a thumb over safety grip. Dropped right in, no fitting, that's why they use MIM, no fitting req.)
I still have to drill the thumbsafety detent some more. If she looks good after being refinished all black (including the grips) I'll put some Wilson trigger parts in.
BTW i don't think firearm break in is a myth in any way. It just depends on the gun your talking about.
Overly tight tolerance guns need those rounds to loosen up.
This is why you hear people say some guns have very loose tolerances and aren't so accurate but they will eat anything? Thats why a tight gun needs to break in and loosen up.
I just bought a parkerized 1911 and it felt like it had sandpaper between the rails, I put Slide Glide on them after a good cleaning and shot it 150 rounds and now it feels like its on ball bearings when i pull the slide back.
That can definitely cause a gun to have failures until it broke in also, Mine was fine but i could see many others choke due to it.
Overly tight tolerance guns need those rounds to loosen up.
This is why you hear people say some guns have very loose tolerances and aren't so accurate but they will eat anything? Thats why a tight gun needs to break in and loosen up.
I just bought a parkerized 1911 and it felt like it had sandpaper between the rails, I put Slide Glide on them after a good cleaning and shot it 150 rounds and now it feels like its on ball bearings when i pull the slide back.
That can definitely cause a gun to have failures until it broke in also, Mine was fine but i could see many others choke due to it.
Zerodefect said:
I've been considering the Ed Brown grip safety with memory groove that I have on my Special Forces but would need to cut the frame to fit it.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=181642
However, the Kimber tactical bump version looks similar and it's a drop in you say ... hmmm. Have you compared it to the Ed Brown version? Any thoughts on the similarities or differences?
http://www.kimberamerica.com/shop/product.php?xProd=292&xSec=21
xr1200 said:
I put 50 rounds through my new Ed Brown Special Forces this past Sunday. I ran it "wet" but noticed that the Gen 3 coating wore off in a few small spots inside the rail. The pistol is all stainless but with a painted finish and I would expect some wear as a normal part of the break in process where you have metal to metal contact. The pistol ran perfectly right out of the box but the slide was TIGHT before I used it for the first time. Now it still feels tight but much easier to rack the slide.
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