Kroil and Cleaning a 1911

[HRT]

Well I got the New Year off to a good start and hit the range today after work. But what a mess I had when I got home. I had a couple hundred rounds of too hard a lead bullet at too low a velocity (200 gr LSWC @ 850 or so, BTW very little leading at 1000+ fps)leaving what could best be called a very ugly bore . Some months ago I had purchased a can of Kroil and it had been sitting with my gun cleaning gear not being used. I have been using chore boy wrapped around an old brush and plenty of elbow grease to get the lead out of the bore. Today, as a New Year kind of thing I decided to try something a little different. I pulled a bore snake through to get rid of the powder fouling and saturated a patch and the bore with Kroil. I have to admit that its aroma is not quite as pleasing as Hoppe's or the like. I used another damp patch to clean the frame, slide, bushing and barrel externals. My second observation about Kroil was how it did on the gunk. Maybe 10 minutes later I go back to the barrel previously wetted with Kroil with the Chore Boy wrapped worn out brush and after just a moment of scrubbing there was a on of gunk in the bore. I ran a tight fitting patch through so I could check progress and lo and behold there was no lead left. I didn't believe it so I examined the barrel from both ends and still no lead . Kroil apparently does exactly what its manufacturer claims and works its way into the tiniest of gaps. In this case the lead just patched right out. This is one amazing product. I have an old 1917 S&W .45 ACP revolver that belonged to my grandfather that is going to get the same treatment. The revolver is a story all to itself for another post. Happy New Year

 

[Top Gun Supply]

I really like Kroil. I use it on all of my rifles and handgun barrels. I run a Kroil dampened patch through the bores before I put them away.

 

[HSMITH]

Wait until you see it lift copper fouling with about 5 passes of a brush

I keep a couple cans around, amazing stuff. If you work on your own cars I don't know how you would get by without it.

 

[Canuck-IL]

HRT, just out of curiosity, can you mic a couple of those bullets? I run BE loads of really hard cast bullets at about 750 - 800 fps and have no leading problems at all. Is there any chance those bullets were a little undersize?
/Bryan

 

[HRT]

Canuk
Put the calipers on half dozen or so bullets and they seem to be going .451. Of course the calipers could be off a thou or so, no active calibration program on my personal stuff. It is possible they are a thou small and at .452 to .4525 or even.453 I would not have a problem. Only a couple thousand more and I will be out of this lot. Well I have "discovered" Kroil so the problem is less obnoxious.

 

[wingman]

Just a note on Kroil oil I do use it however note it will also seep into
primers. I know.

 

[Onmilo]

I wouldn't use it a a preservative oil either.
Kroil will etch steel if left in place too long!
Not good at all for the rifling in a barrel.

 

[Dave P]

Kroil will etch steel if left in place too long!


Any data to back that up? I find that very hard to believe.

DAve

 

[ktd]

Kroil will etch steel if left in place too long!


Any data to back that up? I find that very hard to believe.

DAve

would like to hear that info too, heard someone say that WD40 would also eat metal, which I thought was a bit of crapola.

 

[mtnbkr]

A quick search for "kroil" and "etch" here and at TFL showed nothing (here it pulled this thread, but that's expected).

First I've heard of this problem too. I'd like more info as well.

Chris

 

[Onmilo]

Unrelated to firearms directly.
Among other things, I work as a machinest for one of the larger companies in the area.
Kroil is regularly utilized for a number of lubricating functions.
This company also uses robotic transport vehicles for moving larger pieces around the plant.
The vehicles are guided on sealed tracks in the floor.
Kroil was tried as a lubricating oil for the tracking.
Kroil ate the steel tracks so badly that a good portion of the test area tracking had to be replaced.
Kroil etched the smooth metal so badly that the vehicles would lose tracking ability and become stuck.

I like Kroil.
It is excellent as a penetrating oil and as a release agent.
I would never use it as a preservative oil.

 

[mtnbkr]

Is it possible that using a light oil such as Kroil allowed whatever touches the track to cause damage via pressure? Was testing with no lubrication done to compare effects?

Chris

 

[Onmilo]

Since I am not directly involved with that particular department and area I can't give you specific details Chris.
I can tell you the tracks were in the shape of inverted Ts, very tight tolerence and the Kroil oil etched the edges of the bottom spans enough that the robots guidance rails wandered off center.

 

[DMK]

I think one of the biggest problems folks have with lubricants is they use good products in the wrong applications:

Kroil - a penetrating oil. Not a lubricant. Great for loosening stuck stuff. Great for getting under fouling and lifting it. It's also a good solvent for glue and gunk. Will take stickers and tape right off. Too thin to be persistant and evaporates too quickly as a perservative. Another great penetrating oil is PB Blaster.

WD40 - Sold as a penetrant. It's just OK for that. PB and Kroil are way better. WD's great for a water displacer. Got a wet gun? WD's the oil you want to dry it out with.

Grease - Very persistant. Good for high pressure and parts than might tend to fling the oil and shed it off. Not the best as a lube. Grease is oil with thickeners added. The thickeners actually make is less slippery. Doesn't evaporate. Good for long term storage (RIG, Cosmoline, etc). Attracts dust and grit like crazy though. Can turn into a grinding compound in dusty or dirt environments.

Lubricating oil and protectants - Break Free, Miltec, FP-10, Hoppes Gun oil, etc. These are usually the best for lubricants and protectants. Good oils are actually more slippery than greases and are a good balance of thinness between greases and penetrating oils.

Think lubricant oil first, only use grease or penetrating oils if you need their special capabilities.

 

[Erich]

I just used Kroil for the first time on New Year's Eve as well. Wow! What great results!

Midway has it on sale this month for $3.99/can, BTW. (I bought my can last month for $7.99, but there's no reason you all shouldn't get a great deal.)

 

[bpisler]

I've been thinking about trying kroil as i shoot
lots of my hard cast reloads.I guess now would
be a good time now that's it's on sale.

 

[HSMITH]

I have some metal samples in Kroil for a test. Stainless, tool steel and mild steel.

I have use Kroil extensively for over 10 years and never experienced any etching, but my curiousity is up and I have to prove it to myself......

 

[progunner1957]

I have always used Hoppe's #9 for cleaning and WD40 for lubrication/exterior wipe-down. I have never had any problems with these two products.

 

[U.S.SFC_RET]

I have used kroil for years and there is nothing better to loosen and remove rust . With this thread I will keep that in mind when it comes to guns. I shudder when I think about leaving kroil in the inner workings of a gun that you can't see. It might or might not etch steel. It might or might not take the finish off those inner workings that you can't see, ie sear, disconnector, springs and other parts that are just too hard to get into. My advise is to use it for what it was intended for.

 

[Joe Mamma]

I have some metal samples in Kroil for a test. Stainless, tool steel and mild steel.

I have use Kroil extensively for over 10 years and never experienced any etching, but my curiousity is up and I have to prove it to myself......

I am looking forward to the results of your tests. Thanks.

So far, my favorite cleaner is a 50/50 combination of Kroil and Shooters Choice. It works great and the smell isn't offensive at all.

Joe Mamma