Rusty,
He was telling me that in his experience lead has been the most accurate. I was wondering what some opinions were from those of you that have used both
The short answer to your query regarding cast bullets is, they can easily be "as" accurate, as any jacketed bullet made if you do your homework with them.
I've cast bullets and used them in handguns exclusively for many years. I use to use jacketed bullets in my handguns mainly for hunting up until the early 80's, and cast bullets for target, PPC and Police matches. But since shortly after that time, I used cast bullets exclusively for everything. And, every bit as accurately as jacketed bullets in handguns. Rifles require much more involvement to get them shoot "as accurate" as most jacketed bullets, but in a reduced velocity, and using only the best inspected, they can be as good or better in many cases.
I've been casting bullets since I was a little duffer, and after many years, I've never really lost interest, and if anything, I've delved much deeper into it. I also included making my own jacketed bullets when I need something odd, or different, including swaging my own lead bullets.
I did, and still do cast for the 9mm, although not as much as I once did. The 9mm's have been so cheap commercially, most just buy them anymore.
You didn't mention the gun you were using, but you need to pay attention to the rifling, in that, is it square cut standard type rifling, or is it polygonal (rounded looking) like Glocks have ?
The reason being, is that depending on the brinnell hardness of the lead alloy the bullets are made of, standard "square cut" rifling will have a more positive "bite" into the bullet than the polygonal rifling will.
As a Glock armorer, I have always been advised in their armorer's schools against the use of lead bullets in their guns....period.
Now I know some guys who are aware of their warning, but also realize that hardness levels of lead have a lot to do with their safe function in the Glocks....but the company states a resounding "no way" when it comes to their use.
Most bullet jackets run approx. 40BHN (Brinnell Hardness Number), and on the opposite extreme is pure lead which runs at 5BHN. Wheel Weights run on average at 9BHN, but if cast and dropped directly into cool water right out of the mould, can harden to a BHN of 15 or 16 within a few days.
My old 9mm cast load was a Lyman 120 gr truncated cone, plainbased bullet, loaded over 4.5grs of Unique and a CCI 500 primer. I use to shoot it out of several 9mm's back in the day, but mainly a S&W 3906 I once had.
The load function and shot superbly......very accurate, with light to moderate recoil.
Most 9mm bores run anywhere from .3545-.356. The majority probably are .355-.3555....but you gotta slug your bore to make sure.
Cast bullets will shoot the best sized to exact bore size, or slightly over. If a cast bullet when dropped from it's mould, has to be sized more than .003 down from it's dropped diameter, normally this will ruin it's chances of decent accuracy.
If your going to buy them, check your bore diameter and try to buy the bullets on a couple of simple points;
Depending on the hardness of the lead, if it's softer lead "swaged" bulk bullets, buy them at a .356 diameter (which they usually are)....
If the bullets are commercially cast, and the lead is harder, you can use them at your bore diameter, or over by no more than .001.
In revolvers, the old adage of sizing the bullets to fit your bore is incorrect. Lyman has instructed this for years, but when you check the charge holes in the revolver's cylinders, you always find that they are always larger, sometime from .002-.004 over the bore diameter....how could this situation possibly allow a bullet to shoot accurately ?.....it can't.......
Sizing the bullet to just push through the chamber's charge holes with moderate thumb pressure is correct. In other words, at charge hole diameter, but no more than
.002 over bore diameter.
I've been told that .003 is the absolute maximum recommended overbore diameter allowed, but hardness factors and other things come into play when you start to push things.
I use to do it Lymans way many moons ago, with spotty results. After many discussions with Lyman about it over the years, they've finally changed their view from the old ways, and admittedly use the same cylinder measuring method.
Coming through the cylinder "tightly", then with the forcing cone squeezing the bullet down to fit the bore, the bullet has no room to cant and shoots straight.
If I can help...don't hesitate to ask..
Take care,
Bob
