All of the factory plated ammo I've fired in various calibers was always slightly or greatly, less accurate than factory FMJ.
I didn't understand the connection for years. (as in, I didn't know Blazer and such are advertised as "FMJ" but are really plated) Once I learned that I put it together. Then started reloading and learned about the issues that can arise from plated bullets. Inconsistent sizing, inconsistent plating, over-crimping, and plating coming off in flight after being cut by rifling. (Seen it)
True, every bullet has it's downsides, but I will avoid plated bullets and stick to true jacketed, lead, and coated lead.
I have been guilty of using lead that was too hard for the pressure level but surprisingly, the leading still wasn't that bad.
Coated bullets still smoke, though a little less than lead, but they stink. Smells like burning paint, though I try to hold my breath when the smoke blows my way.
I don't mind a little extra cleaning. Want a tip? Gloves! Nitrile gloves! Everything we shoot and much of what we clean with has nasty chemicals in it! Try not to breath that crap or let it soak into your skin / body. Clean in a ventilated area, wear gloves, and try to use less-harsh chemicals.
I do plan on buying coated bullets for my wifes LCR .327 because it's what she shoots the most and after firing over 150 rds (.32 S&W Long and .32 Mag) of it on our last range trip her hands were filthy! (and we were using a Speedbeez loader and loading box) I'm not reloading .32 Long anymore because I think the jump in that long .327 chamber reduces accuracy. I still have 600 rds of factory PPU LRN. Yes, we notice the accuracy decrease in the snub revolver at 15-20 yds. So we use the Long ammo for the 1-15 yard practice.
