Leading Removal with Filler
- Thread starter Jim Watson
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Jaxondog
Member
Thanks, I'll try to find a Walgreen's around here somewhere.
What I have done for bad lead fouling in a pistol:
Go to the hardware store and buy a 1 ft section of quarter inch brass tube.
Flare one end a little. Then take your inside chamfer tool and sharpen it.
Scrape out the fouling. Keep the tip pressed against the bore, and let it follow the rifling. Watch big chunks and flakes of lead fall out.
Go to the hardware store and buy a 1 ft section of quarter inch brass tube.
Flare one end a little. Then take your inside chamfer tool and sharpen it.
Scrape out the fouling. Keep the tip pressed against the bore, and let it follow the rifling. Watch big chunks and flakes of lead fall out.
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doubleh
Member
I didn't realise the copper Chore Boy pads were so difficult to find. I asked my wife that is the kitchen expert awhile ago if she knew where to get them. She gave me that "Are you nut's?" look and told me the grocery store. I asked her to get me some and after the next grocery buying trip she handed me two packages. A magnet verified that she knew what she was talking about.
Otto
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- May 14, 2007
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- 2,357
Dentists are a good source for mercury. Maybe he has some that's used.
You can still buy distilled mercury but it's well over a $100 a pound (triple the price that of a year ago).
Nothing works better.
wgaynor
Member
Try Enamel Coating them: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZJwiPvYxdc
Edarnold
Member
About wads and erosion:
The Army was burning out barrels for the 25mm Bushmaster chain-gun used on the Bradley FV. With Stellite throat liners and chrome bores the barrel life was still only a couple hundred rounds ( talk about hot cartridges). The solution from DARPA was an 'ablative' ring of material on the inside of the case shoulder, which improved barrel life by about a factor of four. So apparently a lubricating material can help barrel life with extreme cartridges. The original Wotkyns 'Swift' ( today the 22-250 ) was a barrel-burner with the steels of the 1930's, the IPCO wads were said to greatly improve barrel life according to Phil Sharpe in his 'Handloading' classic, he was a big advocate of the product.
It would be interesting to find out if anyone has actually pinned down how lubricating wads improve barrel life, but that's a whole other topic.
The Army was burning out barrels for the 25mm Bushmaster chain-gun used on the Bradley FV. With Stellite throat liners and chrome bores the barrel life was still only a couple hundred rounds ( talk about hot cartridges). The solution from DARPA was an 'ablative' ring of material on the inside of the case shoulder, which improved barrel life by about a factor of four. So apparently a lubricating material can help barrel life with extreme cartridges. The original Wotkyns 'Swift' ( today the 22-250 ) was a barrel-burner with the steels of the 1930's, the IPCO wads were said to greatly improve barrel life according to Phil Sharpe in his 'Handloading' classic, he was a big advocate of the product.
It would be interesting to find out if anyone has actually pinned down how lubricating wads improve barrel life, but that's a whole other topic.
Garyshome
Member
Mop with ed's red. I put the chore boy on my brass brush, and work back and forth. Check with bore light. Repeat if necessary. Or until clean. Then nest time get larger bullets.
Jim Watson
Member
I ran a little experiment today.
Starting with a well scrubbed barrel, I simulated IDPA shooting.
I chambered a JHP "Barney Bullet", then loaded with a magazine of coated and fired those 11 rounds on target. Three repetitions for 33 shots left light streak leading. Or maybe it was "molying," I'll clean it more thoroughly than I did coming off the range and see.
But it appears to be a reasonable approach that will fit the way I use the gun.
Starting with a well scrubbed barrel, I simulated IDPA shooting.
I chambered a JHP "Barney Bullet", then loaded with a magazine of coated and fired those 11 rounds on target. Three repetitions for 33 shots left light streak leading. Or maybe it was "molying," I'll clean it more thoroughly than I did coming off the range and see.
But it appears to be a reasonable approach that will fit the way I use the gun.
gibekim
Member
you may have to ask for it - Chore Boy
Check with the stock clerks at your local supermarket or hardware stores. Many of these, especially chains, keep the Chore Boy behind the counter. It seems that the crystal meth heads use it as some sort of filter. Go figure.
Check with the stock clerks at your local supermarket or hardware stores. Many of these, especially chains, keep the Chore Boy behind the counter. It seems that the crystal meth heads use it as some sort of filter. Go figure.
MI2600
Member
Above 1+
My local supermarket had a sign at the Chore Boy location saying it was behind the checkout. I asked why and was told people were stealing it to sell the copper. But, maybe There are meth heads lurking around.
My local supermarket had a sign at the Chore Boy location saying it was behind the checkout. I asked why and was told people were stealing it to sell the copper. But, maybe There are meth heads lurking around.
Jim Watson
Member
Update
Grex did not sweep out leading.
I finally got the barrel clean with alternating Patch Out and Lead Out.
I thought about what I might do to get some lube on those "moly" coated bullets. The first thing I tried was lanolin/alcohol case sizing spray lube because I had some on hand. No help.
Then I rummaged around in the Gun Chemicals Box and found a little bottle of Lyman Liquid Alox. I mixed it with Johnson's Paste Wax and mineral spirits to light syrup consistency and tumble lubed some of the bullets. Even with JPW, they came out gummy so I rummaged some more and found Motor Mica to dust them with.
That worked, by jingies. No leading/"molying" at all.
It lubes so well that I am able to use ammo already loaded with untreated bullets by alternating tumble lubed and untreated in the magazine. That is not a terrible chore since I routinely load magazines before going to an IDPA match or practice session.
Grex did not sweep out leading.
I finally got the barrel clean with alternating Patch Out and Lead Out.
I thought about what I might do to get some lube on those "moly" coated bullets. The first thing I tried was lanolin/alcohol case sizing spray lube because I had some on hand. No help.
Then I rummaged around in the Gun Chemicals Box and found a little bottle of Lyman Liquid Alox. I mixed it with Johnson's Paste Wax and mineral spirits to light syrup consistency and tumble lubed some of the bullets. Even with JPW, they came out gummy so I rummaged some more and found Motor Mica to dust them with.
That worked, by jingies. No leading/"molying" at all.
It lubes so well that I am able to use ammo already loaded with untreated bullets by alternating tumble lubed and untreated in the magazine. That is not a terrible chore since I routinely load magazines before going to an IDPA match or practice session.
Try mixing 45% Alox with 45% JPW with 10% Alcohol. Coat your bullets the same way as if using straight Alox, let dry and load them up.
To get a wax sheet: throw some wax into boiling water, pour into wide surface container (i.e. cookie sheet), let cool and peel off the wax sheet. Thickness is determined by the depth of the floating wax!
To get a wax sheet: throw some wax into boiling water, pour into wide surface container (i.e. cookie sheet), let cool and peel off the wax sheet. Thickness is determined by the depth of the floating wax!
Jim Watson
Member
Alcohol?
I had heard mineral spirits so that is what I used, but alcohol might dry harder.
Hmm.
91% HEET OK?
I had heard mineral spirits so that is what I used, but alcohol might dry harder.
Hmm.
91% HEET OK?
jcwit
member
For those who try to find "COPPER" Chore Boy to no avail, try Bronze Wool available on E-Bay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310473005719?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310473005719?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
i looked up dental impression wax, it seems to me that using a hollow punch and a SMALL hammer on a wood block would make perfect little "plugs" to install under bullets. that would be much faster than pushing the sheet over a series of loaded cases.
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