learned stock finishing no-no the hard way!

[Fatelvis]

Ive refinished many Mil-surp riflestocks in the past, using Silicone Carbide sandpaper "wet" while applying Tung/BLO. 220 grit, followed by 320, works great! This time I thought Id try using 0000 steel wool "wet" after the 320 sanding coat. (a tip from another site`s member) BIG MISTAKE!! I have tiny fibers of wool in my grain/oil now, and face the chore of removing them. In the past, I only used 0000 to remove any shine to a dried last coat of oil. On another site they say to NEVER use steel wool dry, I say BULL!! Ill never use it on a wet stock again! Just thought Id let you learn from my mistake.-

 

[dfariswheel]

There are another unsuspected reasons not to use steel wool on wood, wet or dry.

Steel wool embeds into the wood. Later, the steel wool particles can rust, marring the finish.

Also, steel wool has an oil in it to prevent rusting. The oil can contaminate some stock finishes or stains.

The best option today is to use #0000-equivalent synthetic pads.
These are available in the sandpaper department at most hardware stores.

These are as fine as fine steel wool, won't embed, can't rust, work as well as steel wool wet or dry, "hook" the tiny splinters when de-whiskering, and can be washed out to clean them.

Also, they last MUCH longer, and don't embed in your hands like steel wool.

Years ago, in order not to allow the oil to ruin a finish, stock makers soaked the steel wool in alcohol to remove the oil, then set the wool on fire to burn off the alcohol.

This worked, but the steel wool rusted REAL quick.

 

[Standing Wolf]

Thanks, dfariswheel!

I didn't know there was oil on steel wool.