Learning to reload rifle from pistol

[Falconeer]

I'm thinking of putting together a .308 rifle for target/wannabe sniper range shooting. I already reload pistol in 9mm and 357 Sig. What additional hardware and techniques am I going to have to pick up?

I've done some reading here and understand that case length is a particular concern. How is that fixed?

Any reason not to get the Lee .308 dies? I've been very happy with my Lee 9mm & 357 Sig does (have the FCD for the 357 Sig).

Any suggestions for a good, inexpensive bullet for .308 reloading? Don't need match grade accuracy at this point (I'll be learning both rifle reloading and rifle shooting ).

Finally, I've heard Varget is THE powder for .308 reloading. Comments?

 

[USSR]

I've done some reading here and understand that case length is a particular concern. How is that fixed?

Huh? Case length is low on the list of priorities in reloading rifle ammo, although it helps to have them all trimmed to one length. I assume you are talking about headspace (distance from cartridge base to shoulder). The shoulder should be pushed back only enough to allow you to chamber the round without undue resistance. Don't push it back enough and your cartridge is hard to chamber; push it back too much and you overwork your brass leading to an eventual case head separation. I would suggest you buy an RCBS Precision Mic to help you set up your sizing die properly.

Any suggestions for a good, inexpensive bullet for .308 reloading? Don't need match grade accuracy at this point (I'll be learning both rifle reloading and rifle shooting ).

Sorry Falconeer, but good bullet and inexpensive bullet are mutually exclusive. If you want to develop an accurate load for your rifle, you are gonna have to pony up the funds for good bullets. Hard to go wrong with the Sierra MatchKing line of bullets, although Hornady (Amax) and Speer's HPBT bullets are good as well. Expect to pay $18-$22 per box of 100.

Finally, I've heard Varget is THE powder for .308 reloading. Comments?

Yes, Varget is a good powder for the .308, as is RE15, IMR4895, H4895, IMR4064, and others. Good luck.

Don

 

[azredhawk44]

Case length and case weight are important to be consistent if you want velocity to vary as little as possible.

Keeping your cases within 0.5 grains of each other after sizing and trimming, weighing your bullets and ensuring consistency within 0.5 grains before seating, and using a powder trickler to guarantee powder weight to 0.1 grains accuracy are all tricks that long-distance shooters use to keep the velocity consistent within about 10 feet per second.

Otherwise your velocity can vary as much as 50 or 75 feet per second. That translates into several inches at 500 yards or more.

Make sure you get a full length sizing die. Some die sets only come with a neck sizing die rather than a full length sizing die. A full length die allows you to re-set the shoulder of the case.

Hornady makes a 168gr BTHP similar to the matchking that sells for about $15/100 from midway. Nosler sells a 155gr BTHP match bullet for a similar price. Hornady FMJ 150gr is about $12/100, or Winchester FMJ 147gr is about $9/100.

Remington sells a 150gr hunting bullet for $10/100 at midway. The 165gr equivalent is about $11/100.

Every now and then, midway will have a sale on premium bullets. I picked up 50 150gr Combined Technology Partition Gold Moly-coat bullets for $5 one time, not knowing what they were. Now they are about $25 for 50.

Keep your eyes peeled and you will find a good sale. Until then, midway is the way to go as long as your orders are at least $100-$150 and light enough that shipping isn't exhorbitant.

When weighing your brass, make a decision that all brass of weight x will be for 168gr bullets. All brass of weight y will be for 150gr bullets. All brass of weight z will be for 180gr bullets. That way, when you order brass and out of the 100 you ordered, 75 are in the range of x, 10 are in the range of y, and 15 are in the range of z, you can use them all depending on if you are hunting elk with heavy bullets, varminting with light bullets, or match shooting with 168gr match bullets.

I am getting into the same boat as you and have done a lot of research on this so far. I just ordered a digital scale to easily weigh brass and bullets, a case tumbler to consistently clean my brass, primer pocket swager, flash hole deburrer, etc. I have accumulated about 300 pieces of 308 brass for my rifle and this weekend will sort my brass and bullets by weight.

I originally only had a 308 die set from RCBS, which only had a neck sizer die rather than a full length sizer. So I ordered a 308 die set from Lee. I will use the seater die from the RCBS since I like it better, but I will use the sizer die from the Lee as well as the Lee crimp die. I shoot an M1A so I have to put at least some degree of crimp in my ammo. Bolt action shooters probably don't need to do this.

I shoot foreign surplus from my 18" M1A Scout with iron sights in about a 5" group. I do have some vision problems, so a 20/20 shooter could probably get 3-4" groups from this same ammo and rifle.

My homebrews with Winchester Brass, WLR primers, H4895 and Remington 150gr spirepoints get me about 3-4" groups right now.

I have a batch of 168gr Hornady match bullets on order. Once I get time to weigh brass, bullets, and reassemble some really good stuff then I think I can hit 2-3 inch groups with this gun on iron sights. With a quality scope, I think I can expect sub-MOA with it.

 

[jmorris]

If your rifle is bolt action I would suggest using only a neck-sizing die (only use cases fired from same gun). Your brass will last longer and it seems to help accuracy a bit. If your blaster is any other action you will need to full length size the case to insure function. Dillon makes a carbide size die, when used in conjunction with Dillon case lube it will feel like your sizing pistol brass. If you want to low buck it, the Lee dies will work; however, I still recommend Dillon’s case lube over others.

 

[redneck2]

If you keep to "sane" load levels (mid-range), typically your brass will last way longer and not need trimmed nearly so often

On these, I did NOT trim, weigh brass, uniform primer pockets, turn necks, or any of the other time wasting excercises some shooters go thru

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e283/Indianaoutdoorsman/Gunpix011.jpg

these are consecutive 1/2" 3-shot groups at 125 yards. Loaded with Lee dies

1) find a recommended load and double check with two sources

2) use a decent bullet (Sierra, Hornady, Nosler)

3) make sure case length and OAl are in spec

4) go shoot and have fun

IMO, most everything else is fluff for the average shooter

 

[Falconeer]

Thanks kindly for the info, folks!

I would suggest you buy an RCBS Precision Mic to help you set up your sizing die properly.

Neat looking little device. Is it a replacement for a die, or does it help measure a die?

Sorry Falconeer, but good bullet and inexpensive bullet are mutually exclusive.

True, but I don't need match grade accuracy at a beginner's level either. Like anything else, I'm sure there are 'Yugos', 'Nissan Sentras', and 'Rolls Royces' of the bullet world. I want to make sure I stick with the 'Sentras' and not screw up my mind trying to make 'Yugos' work. Someday I'll have the skill to use 'Rolls Royces' and be able to take advantage of the difference.

Keeping your cases within 0.5 grains of each other after sizing and trimming, weighing your bullets and ensuring consistency within 0.5 grains before seating, and using a powder trickler to guarantee powder weight to 0.1 grains accuracy are all tricks that long-distance shooters use to keep the velocity consistent within about 10 feet per second.

I hadn't heard that case WEIGHT was important. Is it a question of volume inside the case and the pressure differences?

Hornady makes a 168gr BTHP similar to the matchking that sells for about $15/100 from midway. Nosler sells a 155gr BTHP match bullet for a similar price. Hornady FMJ 150gr is about $12/100, or Winchester FMJ 147gr is about $9/100.

Remington sells a 150gr hunting bullet for $10/100 at midway. The 165gr equivalent is about $11/100.

That sounds like the type of stuff I'm looking for.

I am getting into the same boat as you and have done a lot of research on this so far.

Have you found a particular resource or resources helpful? Names/sources?

 

[USSR]

Quote:
Originally Posted by USSR
I would suggest you buy an RCBS Precision Mic to help you set up your sizing die properly.

Neat looking little device. Is it a replacement for a die, or does it help measure a die?

It's not a replacement for a die, it's a measurement tool to help you adjust your resizing die to get the proper amount of headspace for your reloads.

Don

 

[Falconeer]

It's not a replacement for a die, it's a measurement tool to help you adjust your resizing die to get the proper amount of headspace for your reloads.

Ah! Snazzy little device. Thanks for the info, it's on my Midway USA wish list (my list of stuff to remember to pick up at some point).