Lee 4 die set questions

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Ok, the Dardas bullet site which says only to use a Lyman M die for expanding cases on lead bullets, has a two step process that not only expands the case mouth but the entire case. The Lyman set comes with a "taper" crimp die not a "roll" crimp and I was wondering about the difference.

this is the reply I received from Dardas BC:
"Bullets need crimping only when they need to be crimped – not just because there is a crimp groove or ‘Simon Says’ to crimp. Crimping is only required if it is deemed necessary. A slight taper crimp to hold the bullet in position is ok as long as there is a crimp groove to accomplish this. Of course this only holds true for rimmed cases."

What are your takes on this? I'm getting more confused by the minute on the lead bullet loading procedure and what dies to use.

V-fib
 
I haven't had a lot of time to read them yet but thanks for your replies to my question fellas.
 
What are your takes on this? I'm getting more confused by the minute on the lead bullet loading procedure and what dies to use.


You'll need to pick your authorities and load up some samples.
 
If you're loading for a revolver then the only crimp you need is just enough to keep the bullet from getting knocked out of the brass by the recoil of the previous round. Autos need crimp to keep the bullet from being "set back" when they get hammered against the feed ramp during chambering depending upon the gun and the bullet.

On my 45ACP's believe it or not, I don't have a crimp on lead cast boolits other than just taking the flare out of the brass. I don't get set back on those even without a crimp. If I load JHP's on the other hand, I need to crimp very well or the bullet will set back considerably when chambering.
 
This crimping business is a biggie for noobs like myself. Im still trying to figure some of it out. I use the FCD. How do you use the seater die to crimp?

I'd like to learn to do it with the seater to so I know how to use everything on the press.

Like yourself, when I first started, I had issues grasping the crimping aspect of it and when to do it and when not to, as well as how to. When I first started roll crimping .45 Colt rounds, I did it with a separate crimp die but now I prefer to seat and crimp in one step.

Here is a good link that explains how to adjust your dies. Scroll down to "THREE DIE SETS" and it explains it very well.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm

Lee directions suck btw. They might as well put a note in there that says "figure it out your damn self"!

That's funny, but that would be nearly as helpful as what they provide, no doubt.
 
Thanks all for the good info. The chuckhawks article is very informative.

time to make some dummy rounds

v-fib
 
well after making a few dummy rounds and determining I needed a light crimp for the rounds to chamber properly I went with the FCD die and they turned out really nice.

I made 10 rounds with the MBC DEWC .358. I flared the case just enough for the bullet to sit on top added 2.2gr. 700x and seated them to a OAL of 1.24 just where the crimp groove is. Then I set the FCD to a very light crimp and they all passed the "plunk Test" in my revolvers cylinders (don't have a guage yet but it's on the list)

so today after hunting I'll try them out.

thanks all for the input and info

V-fib
 
Don't forget to include an evaluation of the barrel leading. I expect you might see some blow by and lead around the forcing cone.
 
shot a few of the newly made rounds off the deck today, snowing too hard to set up targets at my range. After i examined the forcing cone and checked the barrel with my light I'm very proud to say no leading in my barrel.

These rounds I used the FCD but after viewing a really good video on setting up the seating/crimp die and getting good results using it I plan on crimping and seating further rounds with that die and save a step. I have some Hornady xtp bullets to try out and may use the FCD die for those.

V-fib
 
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