I have a Hornady LNL-AP that I use primarily for loading pistol ammo. When I started loading rifle I had to change the rotor in the powder measure to the larger rifle rotor. Not a big deal but it does add a step to the process.
For each cartridge that I load I like to have a separate quick change powder die and a powder measure stem that I can dial in for my favorite load for the particular cartridge. The cost of those items is about $35.
I read some favorable reviews of the Lee Auto Drum measure. I was particularly impressed with the measure's ability to meter well with extruded rifle powder. The cost of the measure was about the same as the Hornady parts I would need for one cartridge setup so I figured I would give it a try. I did order a Rifle Charging Die set (long and short) and a powder measure riser.
I tested the measure on my Rockchucker and found that it worked well with rifle powder. I ordered some extra rotors and another charging Die and risers to facilitate changeovers. Once that was in hand I set up the Auto Drum on my progressive press to load some .300 Blackout and .223.
Most of my Blackout recipes use very fine spherical powders such as H110 and A1680. I am getting a good bit of leakage even with the rotor attachment screw in tightly. I had some leakage also using W748 which is a ball powder. The LNL-AP priming system is very sensitive to spilled powder so this is somewhat annoying. It is an easy matter to switch to a different Powder for .223 but I really need this measure to work better with fine granulated powder for Blackout loads.
I've run into a couple of minor issues that I chalk up to learning my way around the Auto Drum. I have pretty much resolved those and hope to do the same with the leaks.
I load H110/W296 for 44mag and have no leaking at all. Be sure to clean the rotor and the inside of the rotor housing to insure there is no residue or grains of powder anywhere. I use a paintbrush with stiff bristles to make sure it's clear. Then install the rotor, making sure the big o-ring under the thumbscrew is in place. Crank it down til the rotor will not return to the fill position and then just loosen barely enough to allow it to turn. The o-ring out of position will allow leakage--I know!