Lee Bullet Molds

Status
Not open for further replies.

Hondo 60

Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
6,533
Location
Freeport, IL
Lee 2 cavity bullet molds run around $20 (usually $19 something)
That's certainly wayyy cheaper than Seaco, RCBS, Lyman etc.
anywhere from around $90 on up to over $200

The big difference is that the Lee molds are made of aluminum,
where the others are steel or iron.

The drawback?
DON'T DROP A HOT LEE MOLD!

Dropped it on the cement garage floor. :fire:
Now when I close it, & hold it up to the light, you can see light coming thru.
Emailed Lee & they said it's "probably irreparably damaged".

But still I could buy 4 or 5 Lee molds vs the cost of the expensive ones.
 
If you would have dropped a $150, Brass or Aluminium mold on the floor the results would probably be the same.
 
Yup, I have 6 molds - all Lee.

They drop good bullets for me.

I reordered the one I dropped - tracking says it should be here today. :D
 
I think they are a fantastic deal. I do have a problem with alignment on one set I have. I ordered a new set that is supposed to have alignment pins similar to the rest of the world instead of the sideways dowel.
 
I agree they're a bargain.
I have several. I also have one RCBS mold. I traded for it and have very little money invested in it (probably about the same as a Lee costs). I admit to liking it a little better but not 4 times better and that's what they cost. I ordered a new .40 mold this week and it was a Lee. Just can't beat em for $20.
I plan to try the 6-cavity molds soon too.
 
I agree they're a bargain.
I have several. I also have one RCBS mold. I traded for it and have very little money invested in it (probably about the same as a Lee costs). I admit to liking it a little better but not 4 times better and that's what they cost. I ordered a new .40 mold this week and it was a Lee. Just can't beat em for $20.
I plan to try the 6-cavity molds soon too.

IMO, the 6 cavity molds are the way to go.

What works for me is to start at the end of the mold and drop one perfect bullet at a time, then two, then three...

Once the mold is at the right the temp, I can really crank out some boolits. :)
 
If you would have dropped a $150, Brass or Aluminium mold on the floor the results would probably be the same.
That's the curse of Lee; it's cheap, blame the equipment. Somebody blows $150 on a mold and can't get it to work; operator error. Same with presses, powder measures, scales, dies, and any other reloading tool. If you bought the expensive one, this wouldn't be happening.
 
Have a half dozen Lee molds and am very happy with them. Got a couple of RCBS iron molds and after a while you begin to like the nice lite Lee molds more and more.
 
I agree Lee molds are a bargain, and especially useful when starting out a new caliber.

I have found through my personal experience that Lee molds tend to drop the stated diameter with wheel weight lead.

RCBS tends to also.

Lyman, well the newer molds are a gamble, seems too many under size or worn cherries get past the final inspections ,the older the mold especially if they have the Ideal name, seem to have a lot better quality control.

I like the steel molds as far as repeatability, the aluminum can drop well during one session and can go sour on the next, they are also harder to break in, but are easier to clean and you don't have to worry about rust.
 
Not good to drop any mold $20 or $200. They never seem to work right after that. Lee molds are lighter. I have a 6 cavity H&G good bullets but it's a work out casting with it. I'll pass it on to my kids but no my Lee molds.
 
IMO, the 6 cavity molds are the way to go.

What works for me is to start at the end of the mold and drop one perfect bullet at a time, then two, then three...

Once the mold is at the right the temp, I can really crank out some boolits. :)
I used to think the six cavities were the way to go until I busted out my 2 cavity 380 mold for the first time in a year and boy everything just seemed way more simple. less messing around with the pot and less frustration. I normally cast 600 bullets/hr with a six cavity mold regardless of caliber or weight and boy I was scratching at the tail of that 600 boolits/hr rate with the two cavity mold. My next molds will be a one ounce slug mold, 2 cav 230gr lrn and a 148gr dewc mold all for a few bucks more than a six cav and handles. I can cast at near the same rate and I can afford to try out a few different bullet types per caliber.
 
Lee molds will pay for themselves in one casting session. Love 'em. Just make sure the sprue plate is lubed, and the sprue plate screw is tight.
 
I have a Lee, an RCBS, and a Saeco. They all drop bullets that shoot well. It is obvious why the RCBS and Saeco cost more.

The Lee molds are a great bargain, but buy the better handles of the other brands, unless they have improved them.

Bummer about the dropped mold. I bumbled a light fixture glass the other day in the den, on the tile floor. That did not work out well either.
 
What's the best way to heat up a mold, and how hot does it need to be?

I'm dying to try casting my own. I just scored a whole setup from a guy, but there were enough great-looking bullets that came with it that I don't need to make more. I need to buy a couple of rifle bullet molds and some gas checks.
 
On my auto caster I just start casting and dump them back into the pot until the mold drops what I want.

With the hand held molds I just hold the corner in the molten lead to heat them up.
 
Some folks lay the mold on the molten lead, I just cast a few until it warms up. Toss any bad ones back in the mix.
 
I busted out my 2 cavity 380 mold for the first time in a year and boy everything just seemed way more simple.
Two, 2-cavity molds are even better then a 6-cavity mold, IMO.

You can fill one while the other one is cooling off enough to cut the sprue.

Pretty soon, you have to back up to get out from under the pile of bullets you can produce in a short time.

rc
 
What's the best way to heat up a mold, and how hot does it need to be?

I'm dying to try casting my own. I just scored a whole setup from a guy, but there were enough great-looking bullets that came with it that I don't need to make more. I need to buy a couple of rifle bullet molds and some gas checks.

I set the mold on top of my Lee 20 lb pot while the lead melts. I also use a thermometer to check the temp. 750*- 800* works well for me.

When the boolits don't stick, have no wrinkles and aren't too frosty, they're good to go.

The Lyman Cast Lead Handbook is a great resource.

Good Luck
 
I put the bottom front corner of my moulds in the melted lead, but this only works if you have a pot with generous room at the top. Aluminum moulds heat up much more quickly than iron.

I've had several Lee moulds over the years and they're fine for typical limited casting, but definitely wear out and become sloppy more quickly than other brands, even other aluminum moulds. I know this because I've worn out a few. Also there's a big difference in the aluminum used to make Lee moulds as opposed to that used to make the custom moulds such as NEI, Accurate and NOE.

Bullets moulds are pretty much like cars. If a person drove a Hyundai and a high-end Mercedes 50,000 miles, it'd probably be easy to assume that the Hyundai was just as reliable and of quality equal to that of the Mercedes. But in the long run, the Mercedes will outlast the Hyundai. But on the other hand, like bullet moulds, you can buy several Hyundai's for the price of a good Mercedes! My old Hensley & Gibbs mould as well my moulds by NEI, Accurate, and NOE are definitely Mercedes Benz's!

35W
 
Last edited:
I got started with the Lee 6 cavity in 452-300RF. I could make my own for about 1/4 of the price I was getting commercial for and they were just as good. Once I got the bug it multiplied into around a dozen or so.

I have also found the Lyman, NOE, Accurate, and MP to be great. If you get your alloy up to temp, and preheat the mold most will dump a pile in short order.
 
I have had good luck with Lee molds, but will admit I have not tried any of the more traditional high priced molds.

I might pre-heat the mold a little by dipping it in the lead but usually would just start casting setting the bad bullets aside for recycling into the pot.

I used an acetylene torch sans oxygen to blacken the mold for release. Worked well but I realize that is not standard equipment in most shops. It has been probably 20 years since I did any casting so there may be better mold release systems out there these days.

I did rcmodels's two 2 cavity mold thing at times but with different bullets. I would just drop them in different piles. The bullets sure do mount up quick.:)

(I probably ought to dust off my casting equipment as a hedge against future shortages, real or imagined.)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top