lee classic loader-45 colt-

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It's good therapy (phyical and mental) using the classic. You get to hammer the case in and punch it out. I have bettered a lot of factory ammo with the classic loader. +1 on a hand seater. You can feel the primers seat. You don't need a scale either. Just get lee's set of powder measures. Keep it simple and you can really make some darn good ammo.
 
Holes in the ceiling from setting primers with the Lee Loader Kit, you,ve got to be joking. I started loadong .32 win spec. back in the '60 with one of those. Once in a while a primer would go off but not dangerously. Lee would have been put out of business years ago if it put primer holes in the ceiling. The lawers would have had a ball with thar one. Get real. Slow- Yes, accurate- as good as you are, gets the job done, but a press is much better after you learn the basics.
 
I have one and it works great. No problem with the priming tool. In addition I can load 45 smith and wesson as well.

People keep dissing the Lee Loader. I can easily and safely load 50/hour. Even tho I have a Lee BreechLock press with many die sets I also have a Lee Loader for every common caliber (rifle and pistol) along with 12 and 20 guage. They all work and work well.
 
does anyone know which lee dipper throws 5.5g of trailboss? or does anyone have a picture of the loading data that comes with the kit so i could get powder and primes together so it is all ready when the kit arrives? or is it better to just wait and see what the kit says when i get it?:scrutiny:
 
A couple of points: A decent scale really is a must for safety's sake. The Lee scale is perfectly fine, though I use a Lyman 505. Same goes for load manuals. Get the Lee if nothing else (I only use the Lee for most things).

Primers are not a problem with any of the neck-sizing dies. With the straight-walled pistol cases, don't tap the case out of the die at the same time you seat the primer. The cases require a lot of force to tap out of the straight-walled dies. Tap them out 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch first, then center the primer in the primer cavity by sight and touch (use goggles!). Then it taps in easily with absolutely no set off primers. Having said that, a fired primer makes a loud noise, and nothing else. The only time you will have holes in your ceiling is when you use the type of press than has primer tubes, and a tube goes off, setting off a chain reaction. Lee specifically does not use those tubes on their presses for this reason. The WORST that might happen is the priming rod might bounce a couple of INCHES, but since you are holding it tight, and the hammer's weight is on the primer, nothing is going anywhere (primer can shoot 158 grain bullet hard enough to engrave into the rifling of a revolver, but it isn't going to send 7000 grains worth of hammer and priming rod flying when you are exerting several tens of thousands of grains worth of muscle power in the opposite direction).

With bottlenecked cases, you'll probably never set off a primer by mistake (you could conceivably do it on purpose).

Finally, there's nothing all that complicated about casting plinking bullets for revolvers. Clip on wheel weights air cooled are plenty fine for what he would be doing, and they don't have to be perfect weight or perfectly filled out for plinking. I've been reloading for slightly over a year, and casting for probably about 10 months. I now shoot .38 specials for $2 per box if you don't count the startup costs. That's about a $260 per year savings for me on pistol ammo. In another year or two, my loading & casting gear will all be paid for (my lead stash is another matter, but it should last me most of my life). If I was reloading 38 special using store-bought bullets (I bought one box and it sat on the shelf till last month. I'm using them now just to get rid of them), I would have spent half what I did, but I would shoot half as much, and it would take me another two years to ammortize the cost of the reloading gear.

Sounds like he already has some casting equipment (mold, thus implies a pot). Shouldn't be that big of a leap. Buy some LLA, a set of calipers, and a mold. You should then be good to go. Also, LLA is fine to use on regular style bullets. The micro-groove bullets designed for LLA, however, cannot use traditional lube.
 
i just got 50# of lead(plumbers) yesrerday, the scrap yard had 1lb bars of a 50/50 mix for 25 cents/lb... half that of the other lead.... and a ton of wheel weights too, would it be advisable to get some of these to increase the hardness? what velocities could be reached before leading occures in a 45, might as well ask about the 38 too lol:D
 
geez setting bullet seating depth was crazy...ruined six cases too lol. was tryin to set AT min length, worked best in the last grove though i didn figure that out till later... then crimp was fun too.. thats how i messed up the cases.... i got a bit over zealous seating the primers and on my 46th shell set my first prime off.... and at the end of the day i had 1 finished round lol. i only cast six earlier cause i was using the fireplace... tonight outside i cast another 146 for the .38 and 99 for the .45. i got the idea an once you figure it all out its pretty fun:D
 
You had a couple of questions:

The Tumble lube will work fine with the 255gr FN.

The wheel weight alloy will work fine up to about 15,000psi. Or, what the light .38 and .45 produce. If you start upping the pressure, you will start to see some leading but nothing like using the swaged bulk bullets such as the Hornady, Speer, or Zero swagged bullets. With the Lee alox, and a decently cast bullet, it'll actually "pull" some of the leading left by the "factory" lead bullets. The swagged bullets are pressure formed from slugs cut from lead wire thats produced for just that purpose. The alloy has to be rather soft and ductile to be drawn into wire, and then pressed into shape in dies. Casting gets time consuming for a large producer and hence more expensive.

Wheel weights are a good alloy and can be heat-treated. However, by adding some 50/50 bar solder (50% tin), the castability or fill out will be much improved. For this purpose I use 95/5 (Tin, Antimony) to "just fill-out" the bullets; this is based on the smooth very silver look to the cast bullet rather than the grey-frosted look of the wheelweight alloy alone.

Good luck!
See, I told you it was addicting, didn't I?

I suggest you now go over to www.castboolits.com and join the clan.
 
last night i used straight plumbers lead for the .45's and 36 of the .38's i cast.... then i ran out of my first pot of lead... i decider to add 1/2 bar of 50/50 to about 10 lbs soft lead.... much harder an i think will work pretty good in the small .38 bore. kinda difficult to actually MAKE the lead harder now for cartridges, cause i always wanted to have the softest i could find before for muzzle loading and c&b. pattons scrap has a few hundred lbs of wheel weights i might get @25 cents or less/lb for hard .38 when i finally get a little more money saved:rolleyes:
 
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