Lee Dies

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Mr_Flintstone

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I just found out today that Lee Seat/Roll-Crimp dies have two shoulders, and actually do a slight taper crimp before they begin to roll crimp. My question... how strong is this taper crimp? Is it enough to hold 38/357 bullets in place without setback in revolvers or lever guns? I’ve always roll crimped. I was just wondering.
 
Try it for yourself to see if they work with your loads in your firearm. Only you can decide if they work for you.

Do you seat and crimp in one or two steps?
 
Try it for yourself to see if they work with your loads in your firearm. Only you can decide if they work for you.

Do you seat and crimp in one or two steps?
With cast I do one step, with plated/jacketed I do two. I’m kinda tied up right now, but in a few days I’ll give it a try. I was just wondering if anyone had experience with only using the taper.
 
In 38 I think you should be ok. For several reasons I would not do this in 357. The amount of recoil would be significantly more than 38 and I want a roll crimp for greater hold. Slower 357 powders burn better with a strong roll crimp. Imr 4227, and h110 come to mind.
 
I’ve always taper crimped 38 special loads with plated bullets. A roll crimp might damage the plating. I haven’t had any problem with bullet separating.
 
The only hard and fast rule I follow is to use a good roll crimp on any round used in a tubular magazine to prevent bullet setback.
For light loads you can try just a taper crimp in 38 SPL. As long as the bullet does not creep foward and tie up the cylinder it shoul be OK without a roll crimp if you get good combustion. Most of my magnum rounds do require a stiff roll crimp though.
 
Thank all. I was just wondering about this. Looks like this isn’t a particularly useful feature, but it may have a few uses.
 
I got my first set of Lee 38 Special dies in '71 and roll crimped every bullet I loaded. Many with minimal crimp. No bullets "walked". A few years later I cobbled together a 357 Mag. die set and used the Lee 38 Special crimp die. No bullets walked even with hefty Magnum loads. Yes the Lee crimp die work without "over crimping"...

From my metal working experience I believe a slight taper before a roll crimp will be easier on the brass rather than an abrupt roll forming "ridge", and probably easier to use. But these are hardly critical/decisive reasons, mainly theory. Maybe the designer/engineer just thought "I think I'll just run a taper before the roll, it looks better...".
 
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Related question. I also use Lee dies with my .30 carbine. I’ve always seated as normal, and crimped with a separate Lee taper crimp die. Would that be redundant? I never could tell that it did anything; perhaps because the seating die is supposed to taper crimp as well. I may make a few loads today to see if the .30 carbine hold their length in my M1 Carbine only using the seater die.
 
I have been reloading since '69 (with a 7 year gap because of a messy divorce) and I still separate crimping from seating. I feel I have better control of both operations. I have given the one "step for both", but I found the adjustments had to be right on or part of the process would be off (too much crimp as the bullet is still moving, poor seating depth, and too little crimp). I know a lot of fellers combine the two, but I ain't in no hurry and I'm set up to seat/crimp 10 different handgun calibers separately...
 
I started in 1980 with a Bonanza 68 press and RCBS 38/357 carbide 3 die set. No powder measure other than the Lee dippers loaded a few years just like that until I too went thru a divorce that carried on until our last child finished school. Now I load mostly on a Lee Peo1000 and still use Carbide 3 die sets. Just the way I learned to do it and it has become ingrained.
 
With top end loads you'll for sure want at least a little roll with jacketed or cast bullets.

I wouldn't roll crimp a plated bullet (again). It'll very quickly cut the plating and you'll have plenty of issues on your hands then.

The plated bullets don't play well with true top end magnum loads anyways.

Being said, my IDPA load was always with 125gr plated 38 specials ran to near +P levels (gotta slay those poppers!) and they were great and issue free.

Just loaded up a few hundred more at a lighter charge for general paper punching. All done with the Lee die as well (on a hand press to boot!).
 
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