Hi there i have recently purchased a lee pro 1000 for the .40 s&w. I have got sum 165gr cmj Montana gold bullets. But the lee Second edition reloading book has nothing for 165gr jacketed bullets. I was going to use Accurate #9 Powder. Now is it safe for me to load with the 170gr jacketed data and use the .66 auto disk or should i use .61 or .71? Im real new to reloading and just got this lee pro 1000 set up. if anyone has any info or has loaded the 165gr bullets in a lee pro 1000 id like to hear from ya. thanks!
Lee Pro 1000 .40 165 gr cmj
- Thread starter Fak
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jfh
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Since you are new to reloading and to the pro 1000, I suggest you begin by making a fair number of dummy rounds with that bullet. And, since the pro1000 is a progressive, I would also remove the indexing rod and advance the shell plate manually.
The reason for doing this is to learn the steps involved in the reloading process individually. Progressive presses do a lot of steps at once, and it is difficult to learn the steps, much less ensure that safety checks are being done as well. So, start out slow. I realize that you say you have the press set up--but unless you have tweaked the settings for how the press works while "under stress"--in operation--you run the risk of making unusable ammo.
Dummy rounds here means your typical case, your selected bullet--but no powder or primer. These should be made one at a time. That is, don't set up a tube and collator, but do use the feeder. Leave the primer feed empty, and replace the powder measure with the PTED funnel. After you have made five or six, try them in your firearm's chamber to see if they fit properly. Then try putting them in the magazine and seeing if they will strip and feed properly.
Continue to make dummy rounds, but move to the next step of learning your press by inserting a second case as you move the shell plate after resizing. Add a third, and observe the cycle, etc. I would plan on working this way until you can comfortably feed perhaps 20 cases and have the rounds chamber reliably.
As for setting up your recipe--as a general rule of thumb, you can use the powder data from the next-heavier bullet, but be aware of different seating depths for the two bullets. If the 165-gr. bullet you are using seats to a greater depth than the 170, then pressures are up--and the .40 is a touchy cartridge; pressures can spike easily.
As for AA#9--I don't have that data at hand. You will need to verify whatever disk you use with a scale; don't even think of not doing that. Personally, I would get an adjustable charge bar so you can set up your measure precisely. Lee VMD / disk capacities and related calculations should produce a safe load, but not necessarily a good one for your semiauto. Do yourself a favor and buy at least one more manual, now.
You've got a lot to learn all at once by taking on the use of a progressive press to feed a semiauto. Take it slow--and above all, ask questions (here) and read a lot. If you don't have The ABCs of Reloading, buy a copy at the same time you buy the second manual.
BTW--you do have a bullet puller, don't you? That way, you can reuse your dummy rounds' bullets and cases.
The reason for doing this is to learn the steps involved in the reloading process individually. Progressive presses do a lot of steps at once, and it is difficult to learn the steps, much less ensure that safety checks are being done as well. So, start out slow. I realize that you say you have the press set up--but unless you have tweaked the settings for how the press works while "under stress"--in operation--you run the risk of making unusable ammo.
Dummy rounds here means your typical case, your selected bullet--but no powder or primer. These should be made one at a time. That is, don't set up a tube and collator, but do use the feeder. Leave the primer feed empty, and replace the powder measure with the PTED funnel. After you have made five or six, try them in your firearm's chamber to see if they fit properly. Then try putting them in the magazine and seeing if they will strip and feed properly.
Continue to make dummy rounds, but move to the next step of learning your press by inserting a second case as you move the shell plate after resizing. Add a third, and observe the cycle, etc. I would plan on working this way until you can comfortably feed perhaps 20 cases and have the rounds chamber reliably.
As for setting up your recipe--as a general rule of thumb, you can use the powder data from the next-heavier bullet, but be aware of different seating depths for the two bullets. If the 165-gr. bullet you are using seats to a greater depth than the 170, then pressures are up--and the .40 is a touchy cartridge; pressures can spike easily.
As for AA#9--I don't have that data at hand. You will need to verify whatever disk you use with a scale; don't even think of not doing that. Personally, I would get an adjustable charge bar so you can set up your measure precisely. Lee VMD / disk capacities and related calculations should produce a safe load, but not necessarily a good one for your semiauto. Do yourself a favor and buy at least one more manual, now.
You've got a lot to learn all at once by taking on the use of a progressive press to feed a semiauto. Take it slow--and above all, ask questions (here) and read a lot. If you don't have The ABCs of Reloading, buy a copy at the same time you buy the second manual.
BTW--you do have a bullet puller, don't you? That way, you can reuse your dummy rounds' bullets and cases.
Thanks for your tips! =D I have loaded .357 .303 30-30 7.62x39 all on a lee press so i do know a few of the basics. And i will go get another manual probably the laymen reloading book?
Also good idea on the adjustable charge bar i will order one asap!
If i set the bullet to the max Length of 1.135 would i be safe then with the pressure? I would only need to seat the bullet lower if for sum reason it dint feed threw my auto correctly?
PS: I am loading for a Glock 19. Is there anything anyone has encounter loading for a Glock i should know about?
thanks for the reply!
Also good idea on the adjustable charge bar i will order one asap!
If i set the bullet to the max Length of 1.135 would i be safe then with the pressure? I would only need to seat the bullet lower if for sum reason it dint feed threw my auto correctly?
PS: I am loading for a Glock 19. Is there anything anyone has encounter loading for a Glock i should know about?
thanks for the reply!
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Fak, USE A SCALE TO WEIGH YOUR CHARGES. The chart that comes with the ProAutoDisk is badly inaccurate. Don't use the chart, use your scale to choose the right disk.
Go to the Accurate web site and download the pdf load guide. http://www.accuratepowder.com/reloading.htm That will give you data for #9. If it gives you data for 170g, yes you can use it with your 165g bullet.
Go to the Accurate web site and download the pdf load guide. http://www.accuratepowder.com/reloading.htm That will give you data for #9. If it gives you data for 170g, yes you can use it with your 165g bullet.
evan price
Member
iirc I loaded some at around 10.5 grains of #9, but it wasn't a winner of a load. It worked, but 800-X was my best performer in .40!
jfh
Member.
I don't load the .40 Short and Weak any more--don't own a .40. It does seem to me that #9 would be pretty slow. That AA 3.2 manual ants linked to does show it, however.
As for your previous comments showing reloading experience, Fak--were these done on a single stage? Have you used the 1000 for progressive loading with, for example, the 7.62 by 39, or for .357?
I did reload the .40, but it was early on--e.g., in the early-mid nineties, just after the cartridge got going. The .40 can be extremely touchy for seating depth at max charges. A relatively minor tweak can put a pressure spike in a load that is over even proof pressures.
Sort out what LOA fits and feeds in your Glock first--then work the charge up. But, I would seriously consider a different powder--or have a lighter-weight recoil spring on hand, maybe, if you pursue #9.
Jim H.
As for your previous comments showing reloading experience, Fak--were these done on a single stage? Have you used the 1000 for progressive loading with, for example, the 7.62 by 39, or for .357?
I did reload the .40, but it was early on--e.g., in the early-mid nineties, just after the cartridge got going. The .40 can be extremely touchy for seating depth at max charges. A relatively minor tweak can put a pressure spike in a load that is over even proof pressures.
Sort out what LOA fits and feeds in your Glock first--then work the charge up. But, I would seriously consider a different powder--or have a lighter-weight recoil spring on hand, maybe, if you pursue #9.
Jim H.
RVenick
Member
I use the 170g info from the Lee manual for my 165g FMJs. I have had good luck with W231 and my Lee Pro 1000 it is a ball powder and works great with the disks. Very consistent load weights I am using about 4.9g and my M&P 40 cycles perfectly. I use W231 for 38spl also.
AA #9 will work, but is too slow really. I like Universal Clays in .40 myself, although I don't shoot the .40 much. I also like AA #5 in .40. Any of the medium burn range powders should do at least well in it. Unique, WSF, N340, HS-6, etc
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