Lee Pro 1000 priming question

[jefmad]

I am thinking about getting a Pro 1000 and if I do I will continue to resize and deprime as a seperate operation and then hand prime the cases. So now that I am getting rid of that operation can I include the FCD as the last step in the progressive press? It seems like it shouldn't be a problem but I might be missing something. And NOBODY needs to say buy a Dillon because that is not an option so if thats how you feel keep it to yourself.

 

[scott5]

The first operation is sizing/deprime then the priming/powder charging then
putting the bullet in.
There is no need to touch the case after you put it in the drop tubes.
I hope this helps.

 

[jefmad]

Meybe I didn't explain what I want to do. What I want to do is first powder charge, next drop the bullet, then use the Lee factory crimp die. Can it be used this way? Thanks for your help.

 

[Pointman]

I think you could accomplish this if you size/prime the cases before putting them in the Lee. Then you could make the first station charge, second seat (though it'll be harder to reach) and the 3rd factory crimp.

As someone that has used a Pro1000 for 17 years I will say you'd be doing more manual brass handling (size/deprime + prime) this way than if you simply did the factory crimp after(say in a RockChucker). And though I have the factory crimp die for several calibers I've found that after my initial infatuation with the dies I don't use them except occassionally for really light .45 Colt loads.

The upside of what you're after is that by resizing and priming outside the Pro1000 you get around the Lee's biggest weekness which is inconsistent primer feeding. (though this can usually usually be delt with by routinely taping the primer chute ever 2 or 3 strokes and keeping the chute very clean).

The other option would be to get a different press like the LoadMaster, DIllion or RCBS progressives that have more than 3 stations.

 

[jefmad]

Thanks Pointman, I have heard that the primers can be a problem and this is why I am thinking of doing it this way. Have you ever used the bullet feeder for the Pro 1000? If I can get it to work well it would be a BIG timesaver. I would be using it for .45 ACP 200 gr. SWC.

 

[Pointman]

I've actually not tried the bullet feeder so I can't answer to that.

The primers can be an issue. The thing to watch is to keep the chute as clean, dry and degreased as possible. The CCI primers seem to slide better but I still prefer the Winchester primers hence I'm continutally thumping the chute & tray to keep the chute full.

My routine is to set the bullet on, visual the shell plate / case feeder / powder hopper, thump the primer chute then work the lever.

The Pro1000 is a good little machine for the money for the mechanically inclined. I couldn't begin to estimate how many rounds I've cranked through mine since I bought it in '88 other to say that I did just open my 4th brick of WLP primers for the year.

70% of the rounds that it's loaded are what you are intending to load, .45ACP w/ 200 SWC.

 

[jefmad]

How many rounds can you produce /hour with the 1000?

 

[Pointman]

I've never really gone full out for speed but in .45 ACP I'd guess in the 500/hr range. The Lee needs firm steady strokes to work correctly and getting too much in a hurry has always lead me down the path to crushed cases and sideways/upside down primers. Or worse a missed primer that has let the area around the primer seating rod fill with powder that leaked out through the flash hole

 

[jefmad]

Thanks for the tips Pointman. I appreciate it.

 

[Primersinmyshoe]

I had 5 Lee Pro 1000's, each set up for different calibers (45acp, 44mag, 357mag, 45LC, 9mm/38sup). The one I used most was set up for 45acp. I could reload around 500 rounds per hour, unless I had to fiddle with something. I got the press when I started shooting IPSC and would practice several times a week, shooting upwards of 1000 rounds a week. I really gave that Lee Pro 1000 a work out. I did manage to crack the shell plate carrier (Lee sold me a replacement). The little wire thingy that stopped the primers from missing the little chute often failed to do its job - that's where my username came from. The trickiest part was getting the seat/crimp die set up correctly, but is is possible. Having several other presses meant I had a ready supply of replacement parts. Anyway, I used those Lee's for over 10 years, and they were in good shape when I sold them. The Lee Pro 1000 was my first press, of any design, and I was able to figure it out in short order. I think it is worth the money. I now use a different brand press... Just my 2¢

 

[John C]

Jefmad;

Just an honest question, maybe I missed something: Why do you want to run the sizing and priming separately from the rest of the operations? Doesn't that defeat the idea of a progressive (or even turret) press?

-John

 

[jefmad]

I was thinking of depriming/resizing as a seperate operation then using the hand held auto prime. That way I could use the Lee FCD in the progressive press and avoid the priming system on the 1000.
I instead decided to us the press in the normal way and am very happy with it. Without rushing I can make about 400-500 rounds an hour and have not had any problems once I got it adjusted.

 

[Rico567]

I have used the Pro 1000 practically since it was introduced, and have two. First, as to your question: I see no reason why you cannot do as you say, simply by removing the ejector wire and using the location for the size / deprime die for the FCD.
Having said, that, I long ago confronted and dealt with the primer feed issue. As I first experienced, along with some other people I've read about, this unit can feed primers inconsistently. The reason is twofold, and either or both of the following may be involved.

1) the press must be cleaned and lubricated. No matter what the requirements are for other presses, plan on starting a reloading run by removing and cleaning the shell plate carrier and all components. I include here the primer feed channel, which may be readily cleaned with a Q-tip. Then lubricate the points as described in the instructions included with the press; this is an essential step. Plan on doing this every time you reload over 500 rounds or so, or of the press has set for a period of time, even if it's pretty clean.

2) the Pro 1000 feeds primers strictly by gravity, so not only must the channel be CLEAN so the primers can slide, but the "shake bar" that sticks out of the left side of the primer channel and engages the notches in the vertical support nearest the channel must be operational. The shaking action is intended to help the primers move down the channel and onto the primer punch. However, with use, the plastic of the channel can become bent to the right to the point where it will no longer "shake," and thus the row of primers may stall. I solve this problem in the simplest way, by using a rubber band to tension the primer tray to the left, to ensure that the bar rubs against the vertical support, and the shake is consistent. It's obvious, but I might also mention that since the primers feed to the punch solely by gravity, the feed mechanism won't work well unless the primer channel from the tray is FULL of primers. A partially full channel will result in tipped primers.

Since I worked out these fixes, I have negligible problems with the Pro 1000. The last time I reloaded was about 1000 rounds of .40 S&W, and I might have had a tipped primer or two. That's not inconsistent with the results of my other primer feed equipped presses (a MEC Grabber 76 and a Dillon XL 650). The Pro 1000 is an inexpensive press, and is not designed to meet the output of its much more expensive cousins. However, it will produce quality reloads, and its price includes dies and powder measure. For a fully progressive press, it's one of the great bargains in reloading, in my opinion.

 

[skag7]

Lee pro 1000

Hello I'm new to this but I do own (3) lee 1000s 44mag my favorite,45 rim fire ,that I reload for a friend of mine & last but not least 357 mag, at first the primers where a problem until I conditioned myself to gently tap the primer tray & also keep enough primers in it so they flow down the shoot(GRAVITY) is the key other than that they are just great especially for the money. I bought mine from www.midwayusa.com very good price, hope this helps,skag7

 

[batoy1911]

Bought a Pro1000 and eagerly awaiting its arrival. I intend to use it as initially posted by jefmad as I keep my brass cleaned and primed in sealed plastic containers. I plan to mount the press on the left side of the bench and use my left hand to operate the lever and the right to place the bullet on the case. I assume that this will make the 2nd station more accessible for me to put in the bullet.

About the priming issues. I have a Lee Auto Prime 2 mounted on a turret (auto advance disabled). I like it much better than the hand primer (sold it). Is the set up of the Pro1000 primer similar to the Auto Prime 2? I asked because like the Pro1000 priming issues that have been mentioned many times in this forum the primers in the Auto Prime 2 would also not go all the way down when there are just a few left. Also the primers would sometimes get stucked at the chute inlet causing the same effect as having just a few primers left. I built a vibrating rig similar to those in tumblers but using a small battery operated motor I took out of a toy. I connected the gizmo to the chute and the vibration consistently coax all primers to drop down. I can prime brass really fast with this. I'll post a pict of the little vibrating helper later. I intend to build one for the Pro1000 just in case I go jefmad's way and use the pro1000 as invented. But then I would have difficulty reaching station 3 for the bullet seat

 

[jfh]

I am also a long-time Pro1000 owner, and used it mostly for .45ACP and 10mm.

There's EXCELLENT tips on the Pro1000 usage here--to which I can only add one thing.

As well as keeping the primer feed slide clean, smooth feeding can be ensured by a light application of powdered graphite, rubbed in with a q-tip. Clean the primer assembly scrupulously first, however.

I also found that bending the primer feed "shaker pin" to ensure firm contact with the back rod helped.

Jim H.

 

[ants]

batoy1911, welcome to reloading. You're gonna have fun!

Good advice from jfh. Use graphite. Not just for priming, but powder measure as well.

Putting the powder measure in Hole #1 (at the front of the press) is not the best thing to do. The powder measure is reset by a pulldown chain that attaches to the shellplate carrier. The only place to attach the chain is at the rear of the carrier, not the front. You may be handy and find a way to attach it to the front, but as a beginner you're asking for trouble. Develop your skill with the P1000 first. Make the modifications later.

You can prep and prime your brass separately if you wish, leaving Hole #1 empty and use the other two to assemble the rounds normally. After the rounds are assembled, backout the other dies and insert the FCD in Hole #1 and run the rounds around the merry-go-round to crimp them.

[Prediction: In two years you will use the P1000 as originally designed, no modifications. You will deprime/size in Hole #1, prime and charge in Hole #2, and use the seating die in Hole #3 to seat bullet and form a light crimp simultaneously. Just like the press is designed. You will be very, very pleased to produce tens of thousands of rounds perfectly.]

 

[ants]

By the way, keep an extra 30 to 50 primers in the tray. The extra weight pushes the primers down the chute and onto the priming pin. If you let the round primer tray go empty, you'll be in trouble. Always keep an extra 30 to 50 in the tray.

 

[ilbob]

I agree it is a bargain. You have to keep an eye on the primer feed. Sometimes primers will bridge across the feed chute. A little tap will fix that. As another poster said keeping the feed chute clean is key, also keeping it full all the time. If you low on primers and only have half a doze in the cute, they just will not feed. It has to be full.

Getting the seating and crimping die adjusted the first time is a bit of trial and error, and I have had the rings that hold the dies in place come loose once or twice.

I doubt I have ever made 500 rounds an hour, maybe 300. But the more you do the faster it gets. Make sure you have plenty of room to the left of the press for bullets and your arm.

 

[batoy1911]

Thanks for the welcone, ants. Sorry for the late late reply.

Got my Pro1000 BTW. Wow it's alot faster than my Classic Turret with 2 sets of dies.

 

[evan price]

Once you get the timing set on a pro-1k the primer issue is only caused by users not filling the primer tray. I personally have NEVER used a FCD with any ammo and I do not see the need. When properly setup a Pro1K is making good ammo without a FCD. Try without the FCD the way the press was intended!

(PS- Lee is coming out with a 4-station Pro1K based on the Classic Cast Turret very soon, so this will be a moot issue).