Lee pro 1000

[kestak]

Greetings,

I got today my Lee pro 1000 in 9mm with bullet feeding and 4 cases tubes. First time I use this press. I have 1 Lee turret, 1 Lee hard cast and one Dillon 550b. So, I am not a newbie...

It took me 3 hours to set it up on the bench and install everything before I could run a few 9mm cases with no bullet and no powder.

1 - Anyone can explain to me how that powder measure thing work? LOL. I wanted to set it up for 5.1 grains of unique and the closest measure is 4.9 to 5.2.... Can I use 2 disks over each other? Do I have to? A thorough explanations would be appreciated because the instructions are like ...hmmm.. the health care bill for me: incomprehensible.

2 - I broke the bullet feeder finger. Why the heck do they don't make it in metal? I sent an E-mail to Lee to see how to replace it. I did not dare to give them a call.

3 - I had to polish the ejection ramp because the cases were getting stuck. I even had to use a file to remove extra material that was making a burr at the end of the ramp.

4 - If you don't do a full pull on the handle the press becomes untimed... That was funny to crunch 3 cases then cut myself on one case. I was able to retime it, don't ask me how! Anyone can give me the proper procedure to retime the press?

5 - I did not dare to even try today the primers system. It will be tomorrow.

I am sure I will like the press. The case charger is elegant. Simple, only one moving part if you exclude the tubes I have to turn when the one over the hole is empty.

Thank you

 

[bomb dropper]

I dont have a pro 1000 even tho i really want one. Ive watched a bunch on youtube about it. spend a few minutes watching videos and I bet you can figure it out

 

[LiveLife]

kestak, you are brave ... just kidding. Ok, let's get you set up now.

1 - Anyone can explain to me how that powder measure thing work? LOL. I wanted to set it up for 5.1 grains of unique and the closest measure is 4.9 to 5.2.... Can I use 2 disks over each other? Do I have to?

Using the Pro Auto Disk has the benefit of precise charge, but the down side is the "incremental" charges. The increments are in 0.2-0.3 grains depending on the powder. I normally do test loads between the two closest holes and pick the best of the two depending on accuracy. If you want more powder charge flexibility, you can use the adjustable charge bar (I have one but seldom use it) or "sleeve" larger charge holes with business card stock to customize your powder charge (make sure your sleeve fits perfectly tight inside the hole).

2 - I broke the bullet feeder finger. Why the heck do they don't make it in metal? I sent an E-mail to Lee to see how to replace it. I did not dare to give them a call.

I do not use the bullet feeder - my left hand is my bullet feeder.

3 - I had to polish the ejection ramp because the cases were getting stuck. I even had to use a file to remove extra material that was making a burr at the end of the ramp

.
You got it. Most of us polish the ramp and wax using any car wax you have around ... makes the ramp slick for loaded rounds to drop without getting stuck.

4 - If you don't do a full pull on the handle the press becomes untimed... That was funny to crunch 3 cases then cut myself on one case. I was able to retime it, don't ask me how! Anyone can give me the proper procedure to retime the press?

1. Remove all the cases from the shell plate.
2. Bring the shell plate carrier all the way to the bottom.
3. Click the shell plate opening to face you (station #1) if not already there
4. Actuate the lever 1 cycle - properly timed shell plate should click into place just before you reach the bottom.
5. If the shell plate just barely "clicks" into position, you need to adjust the phillips head bolt below the ramp clockwise (do 1/4 turn at a time) and recheck by actuating the lever.
6. If the shell plate "clicks" into position too fast or goes past the position, turn the phillips head bolt counter clockwise (do 1/4 turn at a time) and recheck by actuating the lever.
7. Once adjusted, shell plate timing should hold for 5000-10000+ cycles, but I always check the timing before each reloading session after I clean/lube the center hex rod lightly with motor oil (top and bottom) and cycle the lever several times.

5 - I did not dare to even try today the primers system. It will be tomorrow.

Wise decision. Best to put off hair pulling frustration for later - you got enough on your hands for today.

I am sure I will like the press.

It is a machine with known issues that can be corrected. Correct them before you have problems and you will call it by its proper name (Pro 1000) and not POS, CRAP, etc.

Take your time and make sure you clean/lube lightly all moving parts as the press "breaks" in. It will take about several hundred cycles and several cleaning and lubing sessions to feel "smooth" - Let us know how things go and post questions/issue you come across.

By the way, I did say you were brave ... Just kidding

 

[RugerBob]

wow, I never had those issues. good luck. My pro-1000 seems to work fine.

 

[ants]

bds and I typed at the same time. We probably duplicated efforts.

Well, I understood the instructions but everybody needs a little help. Maybe we can help you.

We all break bullet feeder fingers, just before we take the bullet feeder off the press. I am absolutely certain that there are guys across America who use the bullet feeder successfully. The rest of us take it off the press. I can't help you with that one.

A half-pull doesn't set the press out of timing. You just have to rotate the shellplate manually (always in the proper direction, never backward!!!) until it clicks into place. If you change to a different shellplate (new caliber) it will be out timing. Follow the instructions in the manual, and/or look up the video.

I use powdered graphite on the ejector ramp. Now the cartridges slide all the way down. Even with a little bullet lube or case lube.

The Pro Auto Disk powder measure only uses those disks (you can buy the Double Disk kit to stack two disks for rifle, but it won't work for pistol). You can get the micro disk for small cartridges. But each of these is fixed cavity. You can only get close to your powder charge. That is one shortcoming of the standard disk system.

The Adjustable Charge Bar is fully adjustable. I love it. Some guys don't like it for very small charges. You have to try it to see if you like it.

Priming system works great if you do the following:

• Lubricate it with powdered graphite.
• Put about 100 primers in the tray and start loading. When the tray goes empty, fill it IMMEDIATELY. The system depends upon the weight of the primers in the tray, not just the primers in the chute.
• Keep the system free of dust and granules of powder. Granules of powder will always fall down, when they get in the priming system it screws up everything. Get some sort of blower to blow it out regularly. If you have a problem with the priming system, first thing is to blow it out and make sure you have primers in the tray.
• If you change shellplates, the proper timing of the shellplate is what sets the next primer in place correctly. If the timing is off, the primer flips sideways. Go back to the instructions and retime the shelllplate.

 

[jfh]

I used to use a Pro 1000--now have limited benchspace, so just a Turret Press and a Load-Master is set up. I'll second / third some of the tips so far--

1. Keep the primer feed, anvil, etc., clean; lubricate the chute with powdered graphite; refill the tray when it, and not the chute, is empty.

2. forget about the bullet feeder. period. it takes as much time to fill it as it does to manually set the bullets in place.

OTOH, the case feeder and collater will work fine....

3. Read--and re-read--the section on adjusting the timing, and buy spare parts for this part of the holder.

Were I to be using it now, I think I would consider it a 'dedicated' setup--e.g., for use with one caliber only, or with one primer size only and with the relevant shell plates.

4. IMO, the Adjustable Charge Bar is the way to go.

Jim H.

 

[evan price]

As jfh points out, if you leave the carrier set for one caliber it means no more retiming. I have complete shellplate carriers for each caliber so changeovers are now fast and simple.

 

[kestak]

Greetings,

Thank you all for the instructions. Those are printed out.

When you lubricate the chute with powdered graphite, do you simply put a pinch or two and blow in with your mouth?

Where locally can I buy powdered graphite BTW? Walmart, car stores? Or do I have to order it on the web?

It will be a totally dedicated press for 9mm. I look at my setup and if I ever decide to reload 45ACP on a lee 1000 instead of my 550B, I'll buy another one.

All in all, it was not such a bad day. The press did not get me too much frustrated. In fact, I am quite patient with that kind of stuff where I have to figure out things.

I sent an Email to Lee and they are sending me free the part to replace.

oh! And it was a good day. I was able to put my hands on a Arisaka 1938ish, mum grounded, but condition very good+ with bayonet, chromed bore in pristine condition, matching serial numbers, dies, once fired cases, a book on Arisaka and a japanese flag wore by the soldier full of blood stains... My boss is Japanese and she will be able to tell me if the writing has been done by a real japanese or someone who just copied the character.

Tomorrow, I'll adjust the dies, lube the press and I'll try to load a few 9mm for fun...Oups...I forgot I have a Honey-Dos list to do before or she'll be mad at me.

 

[ants]

Powdered graphite: In the key section of the hardware store (they use it as a lock lubricant) for 5 or 6 bucks for one billionth of an ounce, or

In the glue and adhesive section at the auto parts store, 3 or 4 bucks for a fifth of an ounce, or

Sometimes on an ebay auction, about 20 bucks for a 5 pound can.

The small quanitities come in a squeeze tube, you shake it to loosen up the powder then squeeze the tube and shoot the powder into place.



Conversion to 45acp: Since 45acp takes a large primer and a different shellplate, you can buy the whole entire shellplate carrier and just swap the whole carrier back and forth. Buy an extra 3-hole turret for the dies and the changeover takes 2 minutes. Each carrier stays timed, the dies stay adjusted, no timing hassles.

 

[Seedtick]

Graphite

Here's the graphite I bought and it works great.

Dixon 1lb Can 635 Finely Powdered Graphite $9.07

I run some through my powder measures every so often and it seems to really help.
But the main thing I use if for is making a mess. :banghead:

ST

 

[kestak]

Greetings,

Stupid stupid stupid powder El Cheapo chain... Broke and broke and broke again!!! :banghead:
Now I am using a 14 gauge electric wire and it did not break yet

I lubed a bunch of stuff and what I could not reach I used a WD40 pen. I know it is not the perfect thing, but the press is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay smoother now.

Primer system is working ok (I don't have graphite yet) and my best friend is snapping my finging on it sometimes.

Thank you

 

[LiveLife]

Stupid stupid stupid powder El Cheapo chain... Broke and broke and broke again!!!

LOL kestak, I still have the original chain on my Pro 1000 from 15 years ago. I forgot to let you know to keep the tension spring at the END (bottom) of the chain and pull the slack of the chain up at the top of the lever so the chain don't get caught on the moving shell plate carrier - sorry.

Now I am using a 14 gauge electric wire and it did not break yet

How about that! Never thought about using wire (never broke my chain either) ... if it works for you, go for it!

Primer system is working ok

I have found Winchester/CCI primers work fine but Wolf/PMC primers are a bit tighter and will cause more jams. I thought Magtech primers were smaller, but they have more rounded cup top and works a lot easier on the primer attachment.

lubed a bunch of stuff and what I could not reach I used a WD40 pen.

WD40 is actually a solvent and not a lubricant. It doesn't matter for now as you are breaking your press in. As you clean off the press for future reloading sessions, you can wipe off the WD40 and lube with better lube (I use leftover synthetic motor oil, but use whatever you have on hand). The key is clean and lightly lube all moving parts before each session and as necessary and your press will be smoooooooth (if your session is long, don't forget to lube the hex rod during the session too).

 

[jfh]

although my Pro 1000 is old enough to NOT have the powder return chain, I do use this system on my Load-Master. It seems to me that if the chain is routinely breaking, then the pullback setup is not adjusted properly. Lee uses the breaking chain as a 'failsafe' feature. Tweaking your setup to fix this problem is needed.

OTOH, I do agree the breaking chain can be a real PITA. While I've never tried wire, I did get a tip from someone else to try using the SS ball chain available by 1) stealing it from your bank, where it is commonly used to secure pens at a counter, or 2) buying it when you go to the hardware store to get the powdered graphite. Bring the old chain along to get the correct size; that will save a trip.

I switched to the SS chain solution, and at least avoided breaking chain while I figured out the tweaking needed.

FWIW.

Jim H.

 

[LiveLife]

if the chain is routinely breaking, then the pullback setup is not adjusted properly. Lee uses the breaking chain as a 'failsafe' feature. Tweaking your setup to fix this problem is needed.

Good point. Maybe the two thumbscrews on the powder hopper is too tight for the disk to freely slide back and forth? I found that working the Auto Disk filled with W231/HP38 20-30 times (dump the powder from the case back into the hopper) will provide sufficient coating of graphite from the powder to coat the wiper and disk top surface (will get black on the wiper and shiny on the disk top). Over time, I just wipe off the excess black graphite powder build up with paper towel.

And no, do not lube the powder pour mechanism - the graphite from the powder will lubricate it - I just wipe off the excess with paper towel.

 

[kestak]

Greetings,

Doh!!!!!!:banghead:

My screws on my powder hopper were too tight!

I wanted to use WD40 for now to make sure if there is crap, it will be gone. I love the good ol Break Free or Remington oil for were I can't go and litium grease for where I can go. I use also motor oil on the shaft and other part and gun oil if I need less viscuous oil.

All in all, I am not disastified. I kind of like working on stuff like that. Remember when I was not lubing my brass enough and I spent hours to "unscratch" my dies? hehehehehe

I believe the more errors and mistakes I do, the more stuff I try (but never man to man, it is sicko... ) the better I'll get and the better I'll be able to solve other problems and the more confident I am in myself.

Thank you

 

[LiveLife]

kestak, no worries!

Fortunately, there are solutions for just about every Pro 1000 problem you may encounter - just post it here and we'll get you going "smooth" again.

 

[RNG]

Stupid stupid stupid powder El Cheapo chain... Broke and broke and broke again!!!
Now I am using a 14 gauge electric wire and it did not break yet

Go to Lowes or Home Depot, ceiling fan section and pick up 3 feet for a couple of dollars.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Hondo 60]

I started out about 6-7 months ago with a Lee Challenger Breech Lock Kit. After loading about 5000 rds, I bought a Lee Pro 1000

While I'm no master mechanical whiz, I'm Ok with using hand tools etc. It took me probably 4 or 5 days (2-3 hrs/day) to get to the point where my Pro 1000 was working fine.

I even disassembled it & put it back in the box the first night after 7 hrs of frustration. So hang in there. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be flyin through makin good rounds.

 

[472x1A/B]

Yurko, I like your post. 7 hrs huh? I think I spent at least a week on mine when "it" was purchased. Took it off the bench, put it under the bench, then sold it at an auction a few years later. Bought a package deal from the police chief here in town, low and behold there was a Lee Pro 1000 in with all the "stuff". Anybody want to buy this one let me know. .45 ACP no dies.

 

[evan price]

I bought my first Pro1K as a basket case on eBay, only because the seller had a large lot of dies- about 30 calibers- and the press came with the lot. Turned out to be 90% complete and missing parts/broken parts. Oh yeah, no instructions. I figured it out. Took me a while and I darn near threw it out the window until I figured out what I was doing wrong A: clamped it to an aluminum step stool because I didn't have a place to mount it, flexed too much B: timing the shellplate C: figuring out the primer system D: setting up the dies right
Now it makes great ammo, lots of it, and works like a clock. And I have a very good understanding of the operation of the Pro1000 and I buy more basket-case PRo1K's and rebuild them and pass them on to other loaders for inexpensive prices.

472, PM me if you want to dump yours.

 

[kestak]

Greetings,

2 questions:

1 - Powder dispenser. the disk .57 gives me 4.6 grains of Unique. .61 gives me 4.9 grains. .65 gives me 5.3 grains. I want 5.1 Is there a way to get there? Am I wrong but the instructions don't match the weight? I should have had the right weight with .57. Can I stack 2 disks over each other to get, let's say .63? But if I do that, the screws are not long enough for me to screw the brass nuts.

2 - I have a hard time to explain. I typed it 4 times. Let' me put it this way: The shaft pushing in the primer into the case is too high so the primers going down the chute are blocked by it. Is there any adjustment to be done to solve that? Moreover, because of that I got a primer stuck just by the shaft sideway. I had to remove the pin hitting the column to split in two the chute. Is there another way to solve that kind of issue that is less time comsuming and less dangerous to break the chute?

Bonus question: With all the stuff on the turret, the dies are VERY close and the only way I can tighten the lock screw is by hand. No way I can get a wench there. Anyone tighten with a tool or you are using the power of your fingers?

Thank you

 

[LiveLife]

kestak, sorry for the slow reply. I am cleaning out the garage and doing marathon case sorting and tumbling for brother-in-law who wants to start reloading - Yes, you guess it, with a Pro 1000. I will be setting one up for 380/9/40/45/38/357/44Mag on a small 2'x3' portable reloading bench on casters along with a single stage press.

Bonus question: With all the stuff on the turret, the dies are VERY close and the only way I can tighten the lock screw is by hand. No way I can get a wench there. Anyone tighten with a tool or you are using the power of your fingers?

Lee dies have "O" ring on the bottom of the lock ring and meant to be hand tightened only - I only lightly tighten with fingers - IF they move, I tighten a bit more (1/8 turn or so).

1 - Powder dispenser. the disk .57 gives me 4.6 grains of Unique. .61 gives me 4.9 grains. .65 gives me 5.3 grains. I want 5.1 Is there a way to get there? Am I wrong but the instructions don't match the weight? I should have had the right weight with .57.

I don't go by the listed cc. I select the disk hole that comes close and always WEIGH the charges to identify the disk hole I want to use. 0.3 grain increments are normal for small ball powders and 0.2-0.3 grain increments are typical of large flake powders. If charges don't weigh exactly where I want, I usually select the smaller of the two closest charges and decrease the OAL a bit (maybe by 0.005") and run some test rounds. I select whichever charge/OAL that gives me the tightest shot groups.

If you cannot decrease the OAL for some reason, you can custom tailor the larger disk hole by "sleeving" something inside the cylinder. You can try using some business card stock cut to fit exactly inside the cylinder (depending on the thickness of the card stock, you may need to use even larger disk hole). You can use the adjustable charge bar, but I find it easier to simply use the smaller disk hole and decreasing the OAL.

Can I stack 2 disks over each other to get, let's say .63? But if I do that, the screws are not long enough for me to screw the brass nuts.

The "Double Disk" kit is meant for large rifle charge use. The kit comes with longer screws. I have the kit, but don't use it for pistol charges.

2 - I have a hard time to explain. I typed it 4 times. Let' me put it this way: The shaft pushing in the primer into the case is too high so the primers going down the chute are blocked by it.

The triangle shaped spring on the bottom of the shell plate carrier (right under the primer push rod) releases the rod to drop down - check to make sure it is correctly mounted and working. The primer "push" rod should have a spring on top that pushes the rod down when the triangle spring released the rod. You can test the function by moving the black plastic lever by hand - primer push rod should drop down with a "click" as the case moves from station #1 to #2.

If the triangle spring is mounted/working properly and the primer push rod is not going all the way down for the next primer to slide in, you may have some obstruction in the hole (probably powder). Loosen the shell plate off and lift off the primer feed ramp. Inspect the primer rod and the hole. It should be clean/dry and don't need to be lubed.

Is there any adjustment to be done to solve that?

No, because when it is working properly, there is no need for any adjustment (it drops down to allow new primer to slide in and pushed up against the primer pocket when the shell plate carrier is pushed down by the ram lever).

Moreover, because of that I got a primer stuck just by the shaft sideway. I had to remove the pin hitting the column to split in two the chute. Is there another way to solve that kind of issue that is less time comsuming and less dangerous to break the chute?

Yes. Actuate the black plastic lever to drop the primer push rod and slide/push the stuck primer down with a Q-tip. I never split the primer feed tube/ramp - Just run small Q-tip or piece of paper towel to clean the channel.

 

[kestak]

Greetings,

Thank you BDS!!!

I got everything working in less than 5 minutes. The metal V shaped thing was disengaged. It was an easy fix.

I'll try to shoot my load with a little bit less Unique powder under my 125 LRN bullet and see if it works fine still. I was loading on the upper end of the charge at +P with 5.1 grains and I don't think it will hurt at all to load with 4.9 grains.

Thank you again!

 

[LiveLife]

I love happy endings.

 

[kestak]

Greetings,

Ok. after a few hundreds rounds, here are a few more problems.

1 - The primer system is a weak link indeed. I can't get a steady flow. primers jam, primers flipping...I am looking how to make it more reliable...

2 - The bullet feeder is good but you still need to keep a close eye on it. I removed some material from the chute and it doubled its reliability but it is far to be perfect.

3 - And the most anoying...I use 5.1 grains of Unique in the cases. They are pretty full. When it goes from station 2 to station 3, the stop of the plate makes some powder to spill out. Right now I am using my finger over the case to prevent the spill. I plan to switch to bulleye that is using 4.3 to 4.8 grains. The case will be less full. But anyone got a better solution?

Thank you