Lee rifle dies

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The_Antibubba

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I'm gearing up to start loading for both pistols and rifle, and I'm using Lee equipment (no comments about brand, please). The pistol dies I've purchased are carbide, which means the cases do not need to be lubricated. What I'm not sure about is, are there any rifle dies that are also carbide, or are they all steel?
 
Hey Bubba,

Yes, Dillon makes Carbide sizing dies for a few rifle calibers. They are pretty cool from the feedback of a few friends, but I'll stick it out with my Redding dies. I would lube my brass with those Dillon carbides anyways.

As far as pistol carbide dies are concerned, I still spray all my cases with One Shot even though I use carbide dies. It may be just me but it makes the process alot smoother and probably easier on the dies and equipment and perhaps on the brass itself. Just my $0.02 worth.

Cheers...
 
In my prior work as a commercial reloader, I used carbide rifle dies on our Camdexes, Scharchs and Ammoloads. We reloaded 223, 308 and 30-06. Learned a few resizing lessons:

You can get away without lubricating 308 and 30-06, provided the brass is very clean. We ultrasonically cleaned the brass.
You cannot do that with 223. The rim is tiny and thin, and will shear off readily. 223 needs to be lubricated, carbide dies or not.

Nowadays, I load for myself only, using Dillon carbide dies to load 308 on a RL1000, and 223 on a 1050.
The same rules are in use - I always lube the 223.
Haven't had a brass case stuck in a resizing die in a long time.

Not all lubes are equal - I don't like the new lubes from Hornady or Dillon. The old Dillon oil-based spray lube is the best I ever tried. Unfortunately, it will kill primers - so you need to resize, then clean, then load. They no longer make it, and the newer water-based or somesuch lubes are not very good.

For an average reloader, carbide dies do not justify the expense.

Lee dies are excellent, by the way. I am not fond of Lee presses, but their pistol carbide dies are as good as anyone else's. I just wish they had the Dillon spring-loaded decap pin - they would have been perfect. Lee FCD is indispensable.
LT
 
To lube is not to regret never having lubed.

I have come very close to sticking range brass in my Dillon sizing dies even when using Dillon spray lube. I always spray up a tray and then use a touch of Imperial when a brass feels sticky during sizing.

I have never had a problem with brass out of my own rifles.

Scott
 
I have the Lee Deluxe Rifle dies for .223 - which are carbide - I guess. I've never used lube on one case - why bother? They are carbide, hence the need for no lube. I use nothing but Lee for pistol either and haven't had a problem with them either.
 
Over the years, I've tried virtually every brand of lube out there, plus some home remedies and "off the automotive and grocery store shelves" remedies.

I still keep coming back to the plain old Lee Lube that looks like a tube of toothpaste.

After Lee, I like the RCBS lube. I've never been crazy about the aerosol lubes, but I don't load massive quantities of long gun ammo. If I did, I'd probably rethink my opinion.

Ironically, the ONLY lube to get a case stuck was Imperial Sizing Wax, and this happened three times--all with .223 cases. I sent the die to RCBS and they sent me a note stating that "95% of the stuck cases they get are a result of "wax" type lubes."

Big argument over on TFL about it where I was called an idiot and that it was "operator error."

Only one problem--Redding told me I was lubing the casees spot-on correct. Dillon told me that most of their stuck cases were from wax based lubes as well. Redding dodged the question. Hornady didn't, and neither did Lee.

I bought another tin of ISW simply for my straight-walled pistol cases for occasional lubing just to keep thing smooth. But I'll never use it again on necked cases.

Jeff
 
I like to dissolve the Lee case lube in iso alcohol and use a spray atomizer to get the insides of a Ziploc brand thick gage freezer bag wet. Put in a couple of handsful of brass, roll them around to coat them well, and pour them out on a towel. Add a few more squirts of lube, more cases, etc. Never stuck a case yet using this technique.

Best of all, you can store your cases lubed and ready to go and they won't attract lint or other contaminants, and you don't have to clean it off after you are done loading. Whether you choose to or not is another story, of course. I prefer to tumble the lube off the sized cases.
 
Stubbicat, I'll have to try that. I've been using the Lee lube straight from the tube on a lube-pad. The first few get a heavy hit, the rest tend to go just fine.

What percentage strength of isopropyl alcohol do you use and in what proportion to the lube?
 
To my knowledge, Lee does not make a carbide sizing die in .223. I have used the Dillon spray and Imperial Sizing wax. I have had 3 stuck cases using Imperial Sizing wax when following instructions from this site. I draw my index finger across the wax and roll the case between 2 fingers. I had one stuck in a die from the Dillon but that was my fault. I did not follow the instructions. I sprayed the cases and let them sit overnight and tried to resize the next day. The instructions say to spray, let dry for 5 minutes, then re-size.

Using the imperial Sizing wax I need to use more than I think I need, if that makes sense. What I do now is use ISW for one or 2 to get lube in my die or spray a shot directly into the die and use Dillon spray. It is fast to spray a shot or 2 into a sandwich bag, shake the case, and place them on a paper towel neck up for 5 minutes. I then use ISW for the inside of the necks and things work very smoothly.
 
I have been using the Lee straight from the tube and applying a coat with my fingers. I put about a pin head amount on my fingers and then apply a very thin coat. i then let it sit for awhile before I load. I haven't been loading long but so far things are going smooth as glass. i've never had a stuck case........yet, but I know it's coming:uhoh:.
So far my equipment has operated flawlessly and all I see when I reload is RED.:D
 
i use lee rifle and pistol dies. both work quite well. yes, you HAVE to lube with their rifle dies, or you will seize a case in the die. yes, their case lube works very well. i have used it, it makes sizing very easy. i am not a fan of using my finger to apply it however. i also use the Hornady "one shot" areasol spray lube to size with. it is much more conveinient than the lee. but it is not as slick either. but you will not stick a case with it, providing you spray the cases properly. one thing, if you have not already purchased the dies, if you can get the set with the factory crimp die, you will love that die! it is the best crimp die on the market. PERIOD. so if you can (most calibers are available) buy the dies that have the factory cripm die in it.
 
"To my knowledge, Lee does not make a carbide sizing die in .223."

You are correct. In fact, Lee makes no carbide bottle neck case sizers at all.
 
Over the years, I've tried virtually every brand of lube out there, plus some home remedies and "off the automotive and grocery store shelves" remedies.

Been there, done that also.

For straight wall handgun cases my personal experience has been that the wax base lubes are okay. I use Hornady One Shot and the plastic bag method with decent results.

For bottle neck rifle cases however, the wax lubes have not worked for me. That includes Imperial sizing die wax. Just bad Carma I guess, since I do know how to lube cases.

The water base lubes, in my opinion, still take too much pressure to insert and extract from the die. I believe most are wax based also.

For bottle neck cases, the absolute best lube I have found is Rooster CFL-56 Case Forming Lubricant. Not cheap, but a small jar will do several thousand rifle cases. A dab on your index finger the size of a pin head will coat five cases.

For lubing inside the neck of bottle neck cases, I use a possibly unique method that works well for me. I take a small glass bottle (about 1/2 ounce or so) and scoop in Imperial Sizing Die Wax until the bottle is about 20% full. I then add naphtha (available at Home Depot) to fill the rest of the bottle. Loosely cap the bottle and heat with a hair drier while shaking until the wax totally dissolves (about 130 degrees F). The mixture will be clear when all the wax is in suspension. You only have to do this once when your are first making the wax/naphtha suspension.

Dip a nylon bore cleaning brush in the liquid and lube five case necks. Dip again and lube another five, etc. Wait at least ten minutes for the naphtha to evaporate, and you will have a perfect thin coating of Imperial wax on the inside of the case neck. Imperial will not contaminate the powder or primer, which is why I use it inside the case.

The Rooster outside and Imperial film inside makes for wonderfully smooth case resizing.

I do use single stage presses, so the above suggestions may not be totally appropriate for you.
 
I hope I'm not steering the thread off course but I just though of something. Have any of you polished your sizing dies. I read an article a few years ago(it may have been on THR) about polishing sizing dies with Flitz. So I tried it one a 270 die I was loading a lot with back then. I use RCBS dies so other brands may be better polished from the factory I don't know. Here's what I did, and it worked so well I did it to most of my other dies.

I just took the last piece of a crappy 3piece rod and put a plastic loop patch holder on it. I took a piece of blue Scott's shop towel(excellent for wiping guns because they're virtually dust free) and wrapped it around the loop creating a tampon. I put a little Flitz on it and then chucked the cleaning rod into a drill. I LIGHTLY ran the Flitz loaded mop in and out of the die while it spun slowly for about 20 seconds. After I cleaned out the Flitz the inside of the die shined like a diamond. Sizing was noticeably easier and required less lube. The amount of force it takes to size now is almost half as much. I'd be careful not to do too much and enlarge the die out of specs if anyone is going to try this. My theory is that your lube technique and product becomes less critical if your die is more slippery.
 
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