Let's talk LEAD

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Can you give me the better youtube sites that you found? I have all the ingredients to cast and load but I still hesitate to start. I will powder coat the bullets. My biggest hurdle is the brinnel hardness factor
 
With downriggers that can be expected to contain water, would it not be a good idea to thoroughly perforate the weight before melting to hopefully open up the pockets and free any vaporlocked moisture? I’m thinking something like 1/8” drill bit and go in at a few different spots.
 
So you probably want casting bullet videos, the processing videos are what I mostly watched.
I have watched several bullet casting videos.
I have almost everything to start casting bullets, before I start casting I want to pick up a new 20 pound bottom drop electric pot. I have a used 10 pounder already. I need a few more certain caliber molds and swagger molds..
I will probably start casting bullets early may. The weather here has been rainy and cold most of the time.
I bought two lead hardness testers so I can get a definite hardness in the lead I process.

I think powder coating gives you a little leway on hardness, just my personal opinion.
A friend that cast lost of bullets use to check all of his lead and mixed it so it was spot on. Now he powder coats with a good qualify powder coating he doesn't worry about the BHN of his lead.
Of all the guns he loads for only one specific gun leads up no matter what he used for BHN.

I'm sure some of the guys that will be viewing this thread will chime in with good pointers and knowledgeable experiences.

I also read you want to have your mold hot and once you start casting keep at it with a good pace so the mold doesn't get cold, if the mold gets to hot slow it down a little.
 
I haven't tried drilling lead, but if it's anything like cutting it up with a Sawzall it wouldn't do so good.
I got four lead weights cut up small enough to fit into my pan and it wasn't a pleasure getting them cut up.
 
Drilling lead is easy, for cutting a wood bandsaw works great for big stuff a chainsaw is good. I've been lable casting lately and is fine only thing is the bending over its nice to have a lead pot on the bench. The best long range black powder shooters all seem to Ladel cast since its the most consistent and fills the mold better. I'm looking for a ladel that has the funnel built in.
 
Highland Lofts said:
I've been buying scrap lead and processing it for own personal use and to resell.

So far processed over two tons.
Fairly new to the lead scene and learned alot in the past few months.
Two times had magor water problems plus a couple smaller problems.

When I first got into the lead scene I bought a new five quart cast iron Dutch Oven and borrowed a propane burner. Took three out dated 20 pound propane thanks it to 7/11 and got three fresh full tanks.
Now I can take them to the local Co-op and get them refilled.

I watched a butt load of melting lead videos on YouTube and learned a lot with the videos.
You can tell who has been at it and who is new to the game.

I seen two videos that recommended the GAS ONE propane burner. So I spent the $100 and bought one from Amazon.
Money well spent, it does work a lot better then the two that I borrowed. It does melt the lead down faster then the older version burners.
The only problem is the cast burner is twelve inches in diameter and the new cast iron Dutch Oven is around ten & a half inches so the flame wants to travel up the sides. So to correct that iwill pick up a piece of 3/8ths to a 1/2 inch piece of plate steel and have it cut to the size of the propane burner frame, 16 inches x 16 inches then have a 10 & 1/2 inch circle cut out in the middle so the Dutch Oven will fit perfect in the opening which will stop the flame from traveling up the sides.

One major safety concern is to leave the top on when you are not doing stuff to the lead, adding lead, cleaning the dress out, adding sawdust and candle wax.
I bought some roofing lead that had a lot of tar on it, once the lead melts and the tar turns to liquid tar it wants to burn. When first approach I turned the Gass of and tried scooping the goop out. I ended up throwing sawdust in to the burning mess and the flame went out and the soupy melted tar fused with the saw dust and became a powder that I took out with my slotted spoon.
Worked out really nice.
There is a bunch more to share if there are any of you who is interested.
We'll see where this goes.
Click to expand...
If you did decide to go this route, I would suggest you build in a way to inject air. A hand blower like on a forge would be a one time expense and really durable. A fan injection system would use power and would require better planning.
 
Why do you care if the burner flames are coming up the side of the Dutch oven? Lead will probably melt faster with the flame up the side then it will with a piece of steel between the pot and flame.

In 20 years of smelting I never had a pot with a lid and never even thought about using a lid. A lid is just another thing to move around when I want to stir the pot or scrape off the crud.
 
troy fairweather said:
Drilling lead is easy, for cutting a wood bandsaw works great for big stuff a chainsaw is good. I've been lable casting lately and is fine only thing is the bending over its nice to have a lead pot on the bench. The best long range black powder shooters all seem to Ladel cast since its the most consistent and fills the mold better. I'm looking for a ladel that has the funnel built in.
Click to expand...
https://www.rotometals.com/casting-ladle-bottom-pour-rowell-2-2-1-2-bowl-diameter-10-handle-length/
try these...they work well in my opinion
 
The flames running up the side of the Dutch oven heats the wire handle up and they want to bend.
I use a cheap ladle to scoop the lead out of the pot into the molds. When it gets low I pour the molten lead into a cast small cast iron frying pan and finish pouring ingots.
I completely empty the Dutch over each & every load if I am going to melt down another type of lead.
I have people taking soft lead
Mid-hardness lead
Hard lead.
 
AJC1 said:
I pray that with the volume your handling you have at least read the Osha safety requirements. I don't wish acute lead poisoning on anyone. I would also recommend you have your blood tested regularly. I hate being a safety nag, but I feel reloaders are my people....
Click to expand...
Stack on the right come off today. I call it a rough smelt because it has not been fluxed and cleaned real good. Always outside playing the wind on this step. Roughly 20 pounds.
20220407_141443.jpg
 
Highland Lofts said:
The flames running up the side of the Dutch oven heats the wire handle up and they want to bend.
I use a cheap ladle to scoop the lead out of the pot into the molds. When it gets low I pour the molten lead into a cast small cast iron frying pan and finish pouring ingots.
I completely empty the Dutch over each & every load if I am going to melt down another type of lead.
I have people taking soft lead
Mid-hardness lead
Hard lead.
Click to expand...
Did you get your tester yet... do those values equate to a number?
 
I bought the SAECO tester but haven't used it yet, that checks the bullets.
I bought the Lee Hardness Tester and couldn't get it to read until I bought the microscope & flashlight stand.
20220405_190221.jpg

I can get a accurate reading now on my ingots.
My next purchase will be the
CABINE TREE HARDNESS TESTER
and get a out dated propane tank to cut it up for a melting pot.

I need to get some plastic milk crates for lead storage.
 
Highland Lofts said:
I bought the SAECO tester but haven't used it yet, that checks the bullets.
I bought the Lee Hardness Tester and couldn't get it to read until I bought the microscope & flashlight stand.
View attachment 1071013

I can get a accurate reading now on my ingots.
My next purchase will be the
CABINE TREE HARDNESS TESTER
and get a out dated propane tank to cut it up for a melting pot.

I need to get some plastic milk crates for lead storage.
Click to expand...

I like my Cabine Tree tester. It seems to be pretty easy to get repeat readings with.

I use plastic milk crates to store my clean ingots in. Just be advised, they will hold 700 1# Lyman ingots when stacked in there neatly. Hard to move!!!
 
When you fill the milk crates with lead, they stay where they lay.
I will buy the Cabine Tree tester when I find one. I spent my extra gun money so I need to replenish it again.
 
There is enough info posted on the net to keep you busy reading and watching for months. :confused:

I started up about a decade or so ago, two places that helped me the most were the Castboolit site and Los Angeles Silhouette Club, both are loaded with information.

Initially I was mainly just looking to make solids for my magnum revolvers, but when the Obama shortages hit I had to modify that in order to have HP's as well. Those took a bit more effort to get things dialed in. That was about when the PC started to catch a gear as well. I shoot about half and half, and even use Alox in one form or another for casual practice loads.

If you go conventional lube I highly suggest White Label Lubes. Glen carries something to cover any velocity range. I've also used a fellow off the CB site for my powder, he goes by "Smoke4320" and is one of the site vendors. There are other places to pick it up like Powder by the Pound and such but I like to support the site folks.

For smelting, I've accumulated several items I've come to use a good bit. I try to keep my initial melt temp consistent by using a thermometer. It usually stays around the 700-750'ish. With different alloy it helps to keep the tin from separating out. For bulk blocks I like to use a weed burner and a map gas torch to help get the mass heated up and helping out the propane cooker. You just have to use them sparingly so as not to over heat.

For molds, Lee is a good starting point for inexpensive trial and experimenting. Once you find something that you really like, there are custom makers like NOE, Accurate, and MP, not to mention plenty of new and used to be had from numerous brand names. I have more than enough from all, but probably the most used are NOE and the MP's due to the options of a solid or HP simply by switching the pins out.

Biggest thing is to be careful, a pot of molten lead can do a LOT of damage immediately if something goes south.

Hope that helps.
 
I make big ingots ~ 20 lbs. I use an old electronic solder tank. I once had Linotype that must have had residual water based ink on them, erupt all the way to the ceiling 19 ft above. I was at least cautious enough to have full welding gear and face shield/helmet.

These days I almost always start cold and come back when my timer tells me to skim and pour the ingot, start again with empty but hot pot. Slowly heating things up evaporates the water long before the lead is molten. It’s not as exciting as adding to an already molten batch of lead but keeps up with me, without the drama.
 
troy fairweather said:
Don't think it will work for what I want to do, the one I'm talking let's you pour and the weight of the lead in the ladle helps fill the mold better.
Click to expand...

That sounds a lot like a bottom pour pot.

Mine has up to 60lbs of lead up above the valve I machined into the bottom of the pot. The two hole orifice stays hotter than a ladle and the temps are much more consistent.

The pot I used on this machine was originally just a simple melting pot. A piece of pipe and a flat plate on the bottom, with a 3500 watt oven element wrapped around it. You can still see the trunnions it rotated on and the “U” left at the top after I cut the pour spout off to repurpose it.

 
When checking your molten pot of lead, be very careful not to let any sweat drop from your face, or anyplace else, into the pot. A drop of sweat fell from my nose into my pot. I instantly realized this and jumped out of the way. It made a most impressive volcano of molten lead flying into the air. I was not hurt but it could have been a serious disaster. I always melt lead outside with a fan. Take no chances. This is a dangerous process and all must be done to mitigate the danger. Best wishes
 
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