Lever action receiver rusting from handling

[gwpercle]

Protect the blued metal with something that has more "staying power" .
Birchwood Casey makes a product called Barricade or Sheath that is Wax Based , it stays put but is pricey and I don't like the small amount that is contained in the spray can it comes in ..
I have used good Automotive Car Wax , like Mother's Pure Carnuaba ... any auto wax that has a protectant ( not a cleaner ) will stay on the metal surface longer / better .
I have even used Johnson's Paste Floor Wax , (big yellow can) back in the day ... and two light coats offers great protection from the hands ... cheap but not expressly made for metal .
I suffer the same malady ... my finger prints and sweat will leave rust .
WD40 may make some products that are designed to stay on metal like WD40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor ... Supposed to be 40X better than competitor ??? .... this stuff looks to be good but I haven't found / tried any yet .
The secrete to solving your problem is a product that sticks to the metal ... Good Wax's work for me ... they make the car and gun look good too and Barracade works but is pricey if you like to use a lot ...
I'm hoping the new WD40 Specialist Rust/Corrosion Inhibitor is priced right and works too ...
just haven't see any to try !
Gary

 

[someguy2800]

Using wax will provide a longer lasting protection than oil alone. Wipe it down with oil at the end of the day and you will be good to go for many many years. Eventually the bluing will wear away, but bluing can always be redone or touched up in the future as long as you don't let it get to the point where it starts pitting.

 

[Nasty Canasta]

Renaissance Wax

 

[ECVMatt]

Like others have said, I keep a small rag and some oil in my hunting pack. I have made it a habit to do a wipe down at the end of the days hunt or shooting trip.

 

[EIB0879]

I have a 336 that’s got quite a lot of bluing wear to the receiver. It’s a 1950s gun and has probably seen many days afield. Not a speck of rust. I suspect the man who sold it to me carried it as an only rifle for decades, and it’s got decades more life in it.

My 336 circa 1971 is like that. Not much bluing left but not a speck of rust.

 

[Pat Riot]

This lube and preservative test is why I prefer Hornady One Shot CLP. I have never seen WD40 Specialist in any store I have been to. I have not tried Frog Lube. I am happy with One Shot.
This is a long read but very much worth it.

Mr. Kulas conducted an excellent test. My hat is off to him.

Review/comparison of gun/bow/broadhead metal care products | Ron's outdoor blog.

More and more broadheads are being made from tool steel or other metals that are not so corrosion resistant as stainless steels. We all want to use goods quality products on our bow, guns, knives,

ronkulas.proboards.com

 

[ATCDoktor]

I would just wipe your rifle down with any standard lubricant and call it good.

My Winchester model 1892 has a “pronounced” area of wear where it’s been carried by a single hand under the receiver but it took 120 years to get this bad:

 

[herrwalther]

If it bothers you that much, get the metal parts Parkerized. Can be done at home very easily or find a gunsmith to do it. I have done it to several firearms and the result is much more durable than bluing.

 

[bfoosh006]

I also have used car wax on blued metal. It does a respectable job... something durable like NuFinish.

It is also quite possible your bluing salts weren't fully washed away from production .

A car wax like this will pull a WILD amount of rust out of a blued firearm.... I used this on my Browning 1886 decades ago.
No kidding , the amount of rusty brown crap it pulled out was a big surprise.
I didn't seem to hurt the finish at all after all these years.
GREAT cleaner, but the wax isn't durable.
https://www.bluemagicusa.com/12a-6-tr-3-resin-glaze/