Liberty Safe Problem

Status
Not open for further replies.
I don't know if I can support that recommendation... I mean, it says "turd" right in the title ;) :scrutiny:
Yeah, I know it was a joke, but the few Sturdys I've seen seemed to be built much better than the more popular brands I see mentioned at THR.

I don't even claim to be knowledgeable abut safes, I couldn't even think of their name until I saw it mentioned. However I have worked in steel fabrication for most of my life, so I know quality work when I see it.
 
I don't have a dog in this fight, but the comment that "All Liberty and National Security safes 23 cubic feet and larger are made in the USA" is interesting, since 23 cu. ft. is a pretty good size safe. Odd that they don't say where the rest are made while they tout the American-made idea. I wonder if they tell the truth but hope the customer doesn't notice the little detail.

Jim
 
So you don't think Sturdy makes a good safe? Compared to what?
I'm sorry. It was a complete joke and nothing more. I was hoping that the idea of "turd" would stick in your mind and be something that made you snicker each time you saw the label on the front "Sturdy" :) No offense meant.

Actually, I have read through their information in the past and I think they are probably one of the better designs out there.
 
Totally understand. I wasn't offended in the least.

I just wondered what you thought would be better. I like to know what other people think and respect the opinions of folks on this forum.

When I bought my safe I spent about a year doing research. I looked at a ton of specs online , talked to retailers, manufacturers and thankfully was able to look at a lot in person.

I'm also blessed to have a fantastic local locksmith who is highly knowledgeable about safes, the locking mechanisms and the ways he has to get in to thm. They sell a lot of used commercial safes and vaults so I could look at them also.

Nothing on the market comes close to giving me what I got in the Sturdy for anywhere close to the price. Sure the interiors are not finished as nice as most other gun safe brands but they put the money in a different place and to me that's what matters.
 
No expert, but FWIW: I think the friction only connection between shaft and handle might be a feature rather than a bug. The couple of safes I've examined all worked that way. I think it's designed to limit the torque a burglar can apply to the internals by using a pipe wrench or whatever on the lever.

Of course, it sounds like the feature wasn't done quite to spec in your case.
 
If my big safe does not open I will just have it buried next to me, with over 100 rifles and pistols in It no one is going to lay it on it's side and beat on it with a rubber hammer.:)
 
The bigger battery companies are less likely to sell batteries that leak and sometimes have warranties to cover direct damage from leakage. It may cover the damaged item, not the fact that you could not get your gun out and thieves made off with everything.

Batteries that sit for years and with little drain (like safes) are prime candidates for a quality and "less likely" to leak battery.

chuck

I've have a Liberty Centurion Safe with an Amsec digital lock. I went to unlock and it would not engage (the keypad was fully functional ...red lights and beeps). I assumed that this ruled out any battery issues. I shook the safe, pounded the door, rocked the safe for hours with no luck. Decided to try replacing the batteries. I used some off-brand ones that I have as smoke detector spares- that didn't fix it. Finally, I replaced those cheaper batteries with Duracell batteries and it opened right up!
 
Fella's;

Liberty, Cannon, Sturdy, etc., are not true safes, they're Residential Security Containers. As with any product made by various manufacturer's, quality among them will vary. Sometimes quite widely regardless of stickers on the edge of the door claiming that the product has met or passed an industry qualification.

As far as I know there are only three sources making true safes these days for the consumer market. They are: AMSEC, and then only the very top of their broad assortment of offerings, Brown, and Graffunder. I'm a retired locksmith & used to sell AMSEC and Graffunder. To my mind, Graffunder offers the best cost/performance ratio of the batch. But, regardless of who makes it, purchasing a true safe is not a pocket change transaction for most people. You get what you pay for.

It may be possible to find a used commercial high-quality safe for sale at a resonable price. However, it's also likely that you will want to modify the interior to suit your needs. It's also very likely that the cosmetics of the unit will not be something you want seen in your home without a good deal of work being applied. Furthermore, it's entirely possible that the cost of moving and installation will be more than you might imagine. Most local "safe movers" want nothing to do with a unit that weighs over a ton. If you knew what the workman's comp premiums were for safe movers, you'd probably getcher jaw dropped. It's not fun no-risk work.

900F
 
a1abdj


the only 'stand behind' they demonstrated to my locksmith, (who also does warranty work for Liberty), was an emailed set of photographs that show the interior behind the panel. They demurred in absorbing the cost of the repair.
As a further note, their photographs show a rod going from the pivot plate up to the top locking bolt, and being threaded into that bolt.
In my safe, that was absent and instead, a piece of flat scrap metal was WELDED to the top bolt, and then welded to the pivot plate.
I am selling the safe for what I can get out of it, and buying another Canon or Ft Knox.

Thank you for this information. I dont need this grief.
 
I have owned a American Security (dial) for thirty years. It is opened and closed at least three times a day. So far, it has worked flawlessly.

Side note: the same goldenrod over all those years also.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top