Lighter S&W springs? If so, what weight?

[Fatelvis]

I'm looking to lighten up the trigger pull on my S&W 686. Should I just put in one of Wolff's mainspring and rebound spring kits? I notice it comes with one mainspring, and three rebound springs. Why three? Also, will the reduced powder mainspring cause misfires? Thanks-

 

[aphrowe]

springs

The lighter mainspring should be O.K. The trigger return springs are each a different rate and usually color coded. Depending on how smooth the hammer, trigger, and the inside of the frame is, it will allow you to go light as long as the trigger returns reliably. You can start with the lightest and as long as the gun operates properly you can leave it that. Also with any modifications it is important to test the gun thoroughly before depending on it for defense. Jon

 

[Oro]

If reliability is not a high priority, Wolf springs can lighten the pull. Changing either the rebound spring or the mainspring can lighten the pull; both often create reliability problems. Changing both will almost guarantee it.

But if it's a new gun, you'd be better off just breaking it in thoroughly with several hundred cycles before deciding it needs to be altered. This will both help mate the working surfaces internally, and should improve your revolver skills. Doing them while striving for stability during practiced dry-fire would be far preferable to live fire or just cycling the action repeatedly without aiming.

 

[Jim K]

All gun makers build in extra spring power to deal with adverse conditions, like cold, dirt, dust, water, and so on. If you know that the gun will always be a range queen and never used under other than "clean room" conditions, changing the springs will probably be OK, and a misfire now and again will cost nothing but points.

But if there is any possibility of the gun being used for serious purposes where it might encounter problems, I recommend keeping the standard springs and learning to work with them.

Jim

 

[crossrhodes]

Springs

I take 3/16 off the rebound spring and install a 3/16 ball bearing in it's place, not a match trigger but it's very smooth, also included is a bit of polishing inside and out of the rebound slide.

 

[greyling22]

I put the wolff mainspring and lightest trigger spring in my 686. it was a well polished and smooth gun anyway, and changing those 2 spring brought my single action pull to under a pound. reliability has been 100%, but a trigger that light is kind of scary. Can't really comment on the double pull, I never use it.

 

[Fatelvis]

Thanks guys! One thing though:

I take 3/16 off the rebound spring and install a 3/16 ball bearing in it's place

What effect does cutting off a spring, and replacing it with a ball bearing have? I would think it would stiffen the pull, due to a shorter spring, and less compression area?

 

[Sam1911]

When I really started running my 629 in competition I tried the Wolff springs. Lightest rebound and lightest mainspring dropped reliability to ~75% (yeah, that's 25% misfires!) and switching to the soft Federal primers only helped that a little.

I switched up to the Wolff "standard" power mainspring and got my reliability up to 99.99% with the Federal primers.

Now that I've got ~10,000 rounds through it, it is smooth and light with the factory spring back in it, and reliability is 100% even with CCI LP Mag. primers.

As others said, you have to decide how important it is for the gun to go "BANG" all the time. Somtimes, it's important.

 

[crossrhodes]

Ball bearing

I take 3/16 off the rebound spring and install a 3/16 ball bearing in it's place

I can't explain it but that was what I was taught and it works. Normally it's used when going to a lighter rebound spring and ensures reliability. I guess it one of the many ways to skin a cat. I don't do it on J frames.

 

[Spartacus451]

If you drop in a Wolff reduced power mainspring you have to be sure you have a full length strain screw. I bought a 686+ new straight from S&W and the strain screw had been ground down .040. With the Wolff spring the trigger was 5.5 pounds. I replaced the strain screw and the trigger is now 7.5 pounds and is reliable with Federal small rifle primers. I have another gun with the Wolff reduced power spring and that requires the Federal small rifle primers to be hand seated to get %100 reliability. The trigger is also a little lighter.

For rebound springs I go straight to the 11 pound trigger spring. I have the spring uncut in one gun and with a single coil cut off in another. Both have them have a positive reset.

You will also see differences in ignition with K/L and N frames because the N frame hammer is heavier.

 

[rmfnla]

I take 3/16 off the rebound spring and install a 3/16 ball bearing in it's place

I can't explain it but that was what I was taught and it works. Normally it's used when going to a lighter rebound spring and ensures reliability. I guess it one of the many ways to skin a cat. I don't do it on J frames.

The ball replaces the removed spring stock so the rebound spring has enough length to fully return the trigger.

We used to remove a few coils and then stretch the remaining spring to the original length to achieve this, but that was before lightened springs were available.

 

[crossrhodes]

Thanks rmfnla

I knew that but thought that fatelvis was looking for something more scientific. I still do it even with the lighter springs but it's more for a smooth feel with the ball bearing between the axle and the spring. Also lots of Brwonells 550 and felt bobs. Got to love that 550 for action jobs.

Stay safe.

Guns - out

 

[Drail]

crossrhodes, you were obviously taught by someone from the Old School of Smithing. I have not met hardly anybody in the last 25 years who has heard of that little trick. (I do it too). You would be welcome in my shop anytime.

 

[crossrhodes]

Thanks DRAIL.

I take that as a compliment. The gentlemen who I picked this up from passed almost 30 years ago. I use to hang around his shop ( a little place in Vista) when I was a young Marine stationed at Camp Pendleton in the early 80's. I remember him showing me his favorite Colt 1911 in which he hand cut the beavertail for the front sight...old school saw and file. It was perfect.
Again. Thanks for the compliment.

 

[crossrhodes]

I stand corrected. I did mean dove tail

Thanks fatelvis. I had beaver tail on the mind because I just finished fitting one.....ah I'm such an armature some times.

Stay safe.

Semper Fi

 

[Maj Dad]

I put the Wolff 14 lb trigger return spring in my 686 no dash/no mod and I do not care to go any lighter. The trigger is ~1 1/2 lbs, the DA is awesome but neither are so light that you will surprise yourself (though a 1 1/2 lb pull is capable of surprises ). I chose not to replace the mainspring in it because I wanted a sure-fire hammer fall with a lighter DA pull. I put the 13 lb return spring and the reduced-power hammer spring in a Mod 10, and it is absolutely slick. I haven't had any problems with ignition yet (caveat: strain screw fully seated and secured), so it may be just fine; but the 686 keeps the factory mainspring. The nice thing about all this is that if you go to far, all you have to do is switch back to your previous spring. Call it a poor man's trigger job if you like but it is surely effective.