Loading block for 1858 new army?

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gw1894

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Jun 26, 2008
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CT, USA
Hey gang, I'm new here and new to BP as well.

I just ordered the Pietta 1858 target model .44 from Cabela's. Had a Uberti 1873 cattleman but I decided to exchange it because I felt a little funny about how I'd get the caps on the cylinder, and I wanted something authentic. The availability of spare cylinders and parts kit was also a factor.

I'm wondering where I can find a 'loading block' like the type used in the 'loading your black powder revolver' video on the page below (hope the link works). Basically it's just a few pieces of wood with a cutout that holds the revolver upright for loading. I'm sure it'd be simple to make, but I don't have the tools. I couldn't find one on Cabela's site, and googling got me nowhere (apparently several different items are known as 'loading blocks').

It seems like the thing would make loading easier, and as a newbie at BP I'd like things to be as simple as possible. I'm not sure how difficult it is to load powder and seat balls with the built-in plunger, but I've seen youtube videos of guys really having to put a lot of weight on the plunger lever and frame to get balls seated. Looks like it may be a bit awkward to do without something to keep the gun upright.

Thanks in advance, glad I found this site!

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...17_TGP&parentType=index&indexId=cat20817&rid=
 
Many places stock that device. Click on the Traditions link below, then click on Accessories. Click on Loading and Shooting in the menu on the right side of the page. The next window will contain a search option; enter Loading/display stand and click on Search.
Traditions Firearms
 
If your projectiles are of the recommended size for your revolver (look in your manual;usually 0.451" or 0.454") and made of pure lead you shouldn't have to exert a great deal of effort to seat them. There should be a thin "ring" of lead shaved off in the process.

Personally, I have no trouble loading my C&B revolvers without using a stand or other special device. The loading lever on them is long enough to supply all of the mechanical advantage needed to do the job.

IMO, it's just simpler and less fuss to do it in the 'traditional' manner. I hold the 'half-cocked' revolver in one hand, charge the cylinder chamber from a metering flask, drop in a felt "Wonderwad", and seat a ball snuggly over it. When all chambers are loaded I use a straight-line capper to seat a cap of the proper size on each nipple. I've found that the straightline cappers are handier and work better on the Remington design than the "snail" types. Neither is really necessary; it just makes the process faster and easier, IMO.

One caveat on caps: While most manuals seem to stipulate #11 caps, there are no set standards for the designation and actual diameter will vary between brands. The easiest way to avoid having to pinch each one slightly in order to have them stay in place is to take your revolver or its cylinder to the shop with you to determine which brand or size (on my Piettas, Remington #10 fits perfectly while most #11s are too loose) fits your nipples best. Then stick to that brand, if you can.
 
articap - thanks for that link. I knew that DGW carried it but I searched all over the site and couldn't find it.

Their search engine and I don't get along at all. All I could find was that cylinder loader (it is NOT a 'revolver loading stand'!) and I wouldn't recommend that darn thing to anyone I knew personally.
 
Hand Loader

Hi,
I recently bought a hand loader on USA Ebay, the more sturdier one for under $20. This enables you to load your cylinder out of the frame. Worked very well. I bought an extra two cylinders from Cabela's and am getting quite proficient at it.
Phil
 
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