Loading Dummy Rounds

[Anmut]

I'd like to load a couple dummy rounds, in .223 and .40, for practice tap & rack drills and FTF/transition drills.

Questions are:

1) Should I weld or glue the bullet in the case so it doesn't get stuck in the groves and become a squib?

2) Can I use something like a RIT dye to color the brass to tell these rounds from one another?

3) I think I'm going to drill out or glue the primer pockets so they could never be accidentally reloaded.

Any other thoughts on the process?

 

[taliv]

1 no. Your bullet should not touch the rifling

2 sure

3 why? You'd think the bullet in the end would be sufficient clue

 

[jfh]

I see no reason to glue the bullet in place. If it does get lodged, use your range rod to knock it back out. (That is a hint to have a range rod in your kit)

I suppose you could dye / color them, or whatever--I just keep them segregated from my loaded ammo.

Rather than drill out the primer pockets, use a punch (shoemaker's type, not a desk hole punch) to cut a plug of rubber the appropriate size and you have also made your dummy rounds into suitable rounds for dryfire practice.

Jim H.

 

[Archie]

Yes, probably

I've made 'function dummies' in the past. After some use, the bullets all get beat into the case. Epoxy would be better than super glue.

The idea about the rubber primer is a great idea. And that would remove the need to color the case.

 

[Anmut]

Excellent guys - thanks. Rubber primers are a great idea.

I think I will JB Weld the bullets in place. As I'm going to use these in speed drills I want to have confidence that the bolt/slide didn't knock the bullet forward and then rip it out when extracted and leave it in the chamber for the next round to kaboom on.

 

[floydster]

Just buy some Snap Cap triaining rounds.

Smokeyloads

 

[Reloadron]

I would just take some spent cases and drill maybe 1/8" holes (2EA Through Holes Total 4) around the base and seat bullets as usual. Four holes near the base are a good indicator they are not live rounds and will never be loaded again. I would just leave the primer pockets empty or dab some red RTV in them but I like empty.

Ron

 

[Anmut]

Just buy some Snap Cap triaining rounds.

What's the fun in that?!

 

[Reefinmike]

Here is an Idea

take a nickel plated case, pop the spent primer out. set it on a flat surface. then melt up some lead and fill the case to right where the base of the bullet will sit and then seat a bullet. then chuck the sucker in a vice and use a wire brush? on an angle grinder to leave a visible band of brass shining through the nickel plating.

This way you have a primer pocket full of lead(no mistaking there), a bright strip of brass around the casing contrasting with the nickel plating(no mistaking there) and you have a bullet that will never set back.

or just load up 10 or so without a primer or powder and pull em when they set back too far to feed reliably.

 

[Vin]

I had problems with store bought Snap Caps getting stuck in the bore. So I used a spent case , spent primer and spare bullet. I soaked the case in vinegar over night which gave it a nice aged look and painted the primer with bright orange nail polish and colored the brass with a red permanent marker. The red fades quickly but it does the job.

 

[Muggs Jr]

Pentel mechanical pencil erasers fit perfectly into small primer pockets. They are cheap, and easier to find than a punch. Just slice them up and CA (super glue) them in place.

 

[kingmt]

Good way to teach yourself to pull the trigger with a bullet stuck in the barrel.
Tap, rack, & kaboom.

 

[ATLDave]

In my experience, setback is more of an issue with dummy rounds than the bullet coming out. Seen a lot of the former, none of the latter.

 

[Lost Sheep]

Here is an Idea

take a nickel plated case, pop the spent primer out. set it on a flat surface. then melt up some lead and fill the case to right where the base of the bullet will sit and then seat a bullet. then chuck the sucker in a vice and use a wire brush? on an angle grinder to leave a visible band of brass shining through the nickel plating.

This way you have a primer pocket full of lead(no mistaking there), a bright strip of brass around the casing contrasting with the nickel plating(no mistaking there) and you have a bullet that will never set back.

or just load up 10 or so without a primer or powder and pull em when they set back too far to feed reliably.

Good ideas, except for the lead.

Not everyone has the tools to melt lead.

Lead is heavy. I would take a wooden dowel (or a short piece of a wooden pencil) cut to just the right length to prevent bullet setback.

Lost Sheep

 

[Jim K]

I suggest:

1. Drill holes in the empty case before "loading" to clearly indicate a dummy.

2. Fill the primer pocket with silicone glue so the dummy round can also be used as a snap cap.

3. Mark or paint the dummy rounds (cold blue does a good job of blackening brass and copper) is also a good idea.

The dowel pieces suggested by Lost Sheep are also a great idea.

Jim

 

[Jesse Heywood]

I have been loading dummy rounds for a group of cowboy actors. The first rule is a method of showing that the rounds are not loaded. To accomplish that each round needs either no primer or holes drilled in the case sides. For your needs, I would recommend the holes drilled, as recommended by Reloadron with a spent primer, which will keep the firing pin from going too far forward.

There is no die that will last , short of baked coating or a Dura-coat system. One problem is the coatings add to the case size and will be shaved off during cycling.

I will leave the bullet retention to others.

 

[C.F. Plinker]

I use a combination of several ideas mentioned above.

1. Drill a 1/8 inch hole in the case wall. File off any burrs.
2. Deprime and seat a spent primer upside down. That way you can fill the primer cavity with the eraser or silicone if you want to dry fire with it.
3. Insert the appropriate length of dowel to prevent bullet setback.

Black is also used to denote a non functioning round. Consider painting or using a blacking solution to color the case head and or body.

 

[RevolvingGarbage]

A dowl inside to keep the length right is a good idea. I would suggest filling in the head
stamp with mail polish (I like blue or Orange) as a way to distinguish the dummy rounds that won't fade quickly.