Loading first round today, quick question!

[JackTheRipper]

I'm gonna be using my 30-06 Lee Loader today.. (but i have a RCBS chargemaster 1500)

I was curious if this is a decent load to make (I have 165 grain nosler ballistic tips and 150 grain barnes tipped tsx (I have everything to load with, but a manual! Sorta forgot to get one, D'oh!)...

nosler's website

http://www.nosler.com/Reloading-Data/30-06-Springfield-165-Grains.aspx

so I should try a load with the lowest, which is 44 grains... that would be 2560 FPS... is that okay for hunting?

My powder is H4895...

or does anyone else have any other recommendation?


thanks!

 

[Steve C]

try a load with the lowest, which is 44 grains... that would be 2560 FPS... is that okay for hunting?

My powder is H4895...

You should always start at the "start load" which is 44 grains. This load is certainly adequate to hunt with but you are skipping the major reason one hand loads and that is to find the most accurate load for your particular gun. This really requires some time and effort at the range. If you just want something to hunt with its much cheaper to buy a box of factory ammo. A box of 20 rounds is more than most will shoot at deer in 5 hunting seasons.

To work up your load you will need maybe 40 empty cases of the same manufacture. Load 5 each at the start load of 44.0 grans and each subsequent increase of .5 grains up to and not exceeding the maximum charge of 48.0 grs. (IE: 44.0, 44.5, 45.0....48.0). Make sure you identify the load for each batch, I drop the loads in a sandwich bag with a pice of paper showing the load.

Your rifle should already be sited in with factory rounds. Go to the range and starting with the lightest load followed by the next heavier load and so on, using a multi bull target shoot for group at 100 yds. Check for pressure signs and stop testing if they appear. Give the barrel time to cool between groups. Somewhere in your testing you will find a particular load that shows better grouping, that will be the load to use. You may want to try to tweek the load up or down a couple 1/10 grain later to find the absolute best or may not.

 

[rfwobbly]

Small world syndrome strikes again

You should always start at the "start load". Go to the range and starting with the lightest load followed by the next heavier load and so on, using a multi bull target shoot for group at 100 yds. Check for pressure signs and stop testing if they appear. Give the barrel time to cool between groups. Somewhere in your testing you will find a particular load that shows better grouping, that will be the load to use.

Steve -
That is really too weird. That's exactly what my reloading manual said to do too. Who'd have thunk it ?

 

[medalguy]

CAUTION!! RUN, DO NOT WALK, AWAY FROM YOUR PRESS UNTIL YOU HAVE A MANUAL!!

Seriously, dude, you can cause some really serious damage to yourself and your gun if you try to load anything without a manual. It's not fun to wear your rifle on your face for the rest of your life. I'd recommend first getting The ABC's of Reloading from Amazon.com, then read it at least twice, after which you need to get NOT LESS than two good manuals (Speer, Hornady, Lyman, Hodgdon, and there are more) and then read the pertinent sections for the type ammo (rifle) and specific caliber you are loading, before you put your hand on the handle of that press.

Anyone want to add to this list???

 

[JackTheRipper]

hey hey...

I have a manual, just not a reloading manual (gonna pick one up on monday)... I have the ABC's of reloading. I was just going to pull a perfectly safe load off of the nosler website (the same that would be in the book) and load a few rounds just to try out my new loader...

Chilax! Relax!

all is well

thanks!

PS I can't stop playing with the RCBS chargemaster 1500!

 

[788Ham]

Jack,

What medalguy is telling you is the truth! Not just my 2 cents either! Forget the website today, get the manual in hand, read the info you want to know, when you're finished reading it, read it twice more, get to undertstanding what's printed, not being smart here, read the black, not the white!! This part of the shooting sport is really fun, but one AH S*** is gonna wipe the fun part out, in a flash quicker than the eye can blink! Those of us who've reloaded for some time have the ability to know when something isn't right, we'll ask someone who might know about this, just as you are doing, but listen to what's being said, we care, we won't tell you something just to get onto the next questioneer, okay? Time will help you too, but get the manual and read first. Good luck!

 

[JackTheRipper]

thanks for the advice...

I wish there was 1 big fat book that had all the different bullet brands in it!

I was looking at the barnes book at my local gun store and it didn't have much info on 30-06 loads at all...

I am guessing I should pick up the Nosler?

or hornady?

heck i dunno

 

[ArchAngelCD]

You said your powder is H4895 but you are quoting load data from the Nosler site using IMR4895. While both powders are very close they are NOT identical and the load data isn't interchangeable. I highly suggest using H4895 load data, not data for IMR4895.

To aid in that effort here is the link for the Hodgdon Load Data Site. You can also call Nosler and ask them for the data for your bullet and H4895. They are usually very helpful as are all the bullet and powder companies. I usually prefer to use the bullet manufacturer's load data over the powder manufacturer's (powder distributor's) load data when possible.

 

[ants]

Hello, Jack. If you live in my area, I can help you personally.

These guys are also trying to help you. Please don't reject them.


You made some very big basic mistakes, like not knowing the difference between Hodgdon and IMR powders. But we can help.


This reloading ain't brain science or rocket surgery, but it's serious anyway.
Let us help you, you'll be a lot happier for it.

 

[JackTheRipper]

I'm not rejecting any help guys, that's why I posted the question in the first place...

I didn't load anything today/tonight!

I want to make sure I'm 100% ready to rock and roll before I do that... and yes, I did confuse IMR and H on nosler's website...

I have been reading and reading for awhile, I just really need to get a book on monday with all this data in it... I thought I could get away with it by reading it on websites of the companies, but everyone seems to frown upon that. I thought it would be more accurate and up to date...

It's very late here, but I'm gonna go to bed and try and load a round tomorrow... Good night !

 

[ArchAngelCD]

There's nothing wrong with using the load data from powder and bullets sites, as you said, the data is up to date. Personally, when loading a new caliber I check the powder site, bullets site and all the books I own. Because all the data is different I usually take it all into consideration and come up with a starting load and a Max charge and then go to work. The only thing wrong with using the bullet site alone is it's just one piece of data. (all be it a good one)

IMO since you already read the ABC's of Reloading you are fine with using the load data from the bullet site or powder site as long as the data provided covers the bullet you are suing and the powder you want to use. (in this case Nosler doesn't cover your powder)

 

[ants]

Yes, just as ArchAngel said.

Good job, Jack. Go to that Hodgdon web site ArchAngel linked for you. You'll find the data there. That Reloading Data Center gives you start and max loads.

Your start load will hunt just fine and will be accurate enough to get big game up to 200 yards. Beyond that, the trajectory may begin to drop a little faster than you expect.

You may find that it gets more accurate in your rifle as you increase the load somewhat, but that's something you gotta test in your rifle. Your ABC book talks about that. Step by step. It takes a little time.

Good luck on the hunt.

 

[rfwobbly]

I was looking at the Barnes book at my local gun store and it didn't have much info on 30-06 loads at all...

Jack -
The problem with the bullet maker's reloading manuals is that they ONLY cover their bullets. So when you look in the Barnes manual, you only see load info for Barnes bullets. And if Barnes only makes 1 bullet for the 30-06, then you'll only get that one single load. This is the same for Nosler, Sierra, Speer, Hornady, et al. Don't get me wrong, they are all GREAT books. All well worth having, but you're not going to find load info for a generic type of bullet if the bullet company doesn't make something close in materials and weight. For instance, I wouldn't expect to find ANY lead bullet info in the Barnes manual because Barnes specializes in manufacturing solid copper bullets.

If you want a manual with good overall bullet coverage, then you're going to need to look at something like a Lyman manual. Second best might be the Hornady manual simply because they make so many types of bullets. Follow?

 

[JackTheRipper]

hey guys, I just loaded my first round with the lee loader, and I had to adjust the lee loader bullet seating depth...

I loaded the nosler ballstic tip with an overall length of 3.23 inches...

what is acceptable? from what inch to what inch?

thanks

 

[ants]

Cartridge Overall Length (COAL or OAL) is the terminology.

If you have a Lyman or Lee or other manual with industry standard (SAAMI) dimensions for each cartridge, it will tell you that the industry max is 3.340" for .30-'06.

HOWEVER, you'll have to check the magazine box on your rifle. You can't load longer than that, or it won't fit, right?

You also should determine the length of the chamber in your rifle to make sure the bullet doesn't hit the rifling lands. This is very specific to each bullet, since each bullet has a different profile. But for nearly every modern commercial rifle out there, stick with SAAMI industry standard max length and you will be good (unless you have a weird rifle).

Minimum length: Generally you don't want to go much shorter than your load data was tested. But it won't be a really big deal if you load a little shorter, especially if you're not at max load (especially with a large case capacity like .30-06).

I'm sure your ABC book has more info on the subject.

 

[788Ham]

See, it isn't rocket surgery is it? Once you really understand what's going on, it will become easier. Once you get yourself the loading manual and become more comfortable, and money allows, get another brand {Sierra, Hornady, etc.} reloading manual too, "MAYBE" something that's said in the other manuals will trigger an idea that the other one possibly didn't, agree? I've learned more than I thought I did, visiting a couple of websites, this one especially, and I've reloaded for quite a number of years. An old dog can learn a new way to scratch, if you'll let the guys talk and ask them questions.

 

[ranger335v]

Jack, your data source is fine, no manual would add anything to your load's safety.

As a starting load it won't make any appreciable difference if you use H-4895 or IMR-4895, nor what case and primer you use. The rifle you load for means more to a book load than such near trivial differences when working at starting loads. And 4895 is a great choice for both full power loads and midrange .30-06 loads.

It would be great, IF you have time, to develop a load for accuracy but the approach of hunting season may prevent that. If so, just use what you have, zero your rifle and use it because the predicted speed is quite sufficent for anything inside 200 yards, or a bit more.

You likely know your Lee Loader will only neck size. That frequently - not always - limits you to brass that's been fired in your rifle. Even then you will eventually need new cases or some way to full length resize them because the chamber fit will eventully get too tight unless you do.

Before you take to the woods, run every round you have through the magazine and chamber to insure every round works smoothly.

Good luck!