Loading for the 1911

[Falconeer]

I recently purchased a new Sig GSR Revolution. As kind of a function test I ran 250 rounds of factory FMJ through it with almost no problems (1 failure to feed at around the 150 round mark).

Since I started reloading for it I've had many problems, primarily failure to feed. The round would start to feed into the barrel but hang up at an angle as the base was sliding up the breachface under the extractor. I'm pretty sure it's related to crimp. The flare wasn't being removed leaving an 'edge' around the case mouth. Any hints on loading for the 1911 pattern pistols, especially recommended overall lengths and case diameter around the bullet?

I have another 100 loaded up that I'm going to try to see if I've found the solution. I'm spoiled by my classic Sigs; if it'll fit in the chamber it'll feed and extract.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
John E.

 

[Canuck-IL]

Be sure the breech face is smooth as a start.
For RN, 1.260 - 1.265 should be reliable
SWCs are typically around 1.242-1.245, a thumbnail of shoulder out of the case
HPs are way shorter, in the 1.2x range

/Bryan

 

[Jim Watson]

Taper crimp to .469" or thereabouts.

Chamber check or gauge your reloads.

 

[callgood]

If it ain't broke............

Reloading for my Glock 20 I decided to back off the customary setting on my Lee FCD it see what effect it would have. On a number of the 50 rounds I was shooting, the round failed to chamber completely. I had to bump the back of the slide to get it to lock up. Back to the original setting and no problems. The rounds had been ok in my case gauge, but the mouth was juuuust hanging up occasionally.

 

[Falconeer]

Thanks guys!

One question I have regarding crimp and setback. What should I be looking for when I load a round from the magazine in terms of setback? Is it possible to crimp enough so the bullet doesn't move without deforming it?

My Lee Modern Reloading manual has a Min OAL of 1.19 for 230grn jacketed. I've had some test rounds come in under that (from 1.225 or so) after racking the slide a time or two on that round.

Thanks again for the help. I'm totally new to the 45 ACP; my past experience has been with 9mm, 357 Sig, and 12 gauge.

 

[HSMITH]

Take a round of factory ball ammo, use it to set your crimp and seating stem. DON'T move them after you do this, just load. I have posted directions on how to do this before if you need them.

Crimp on a 45 is a misnomer, you don't actually crimp the round at all, you just lay the brass back against the bullet and remove the bell you put in to seat the bullet. Crimp does NOT prevent setback, as you increase crimp you actually increase the chance of setback. Setback prevention is 110% dependent on sizing of the case in the sizing die.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

The secret to making good ammo for the M1911 is to use a taper crimp. You should just iron out the flare, no more, since the round headspaces on the case mouth.

Anything that will feed through the magazine will be within acceptable limits for overall length. Any bullet whose profile touches the profile of a ball round about 1/3 of the way back from the tip will normally feed flawlessly.

 

[Falconeer]

Thanks folks! I picked up a box of WWB 230grn that I'm going to use as my basis for comparison. Midway USA should have my order of bullets here this week sometime.

As for other than FMJ ammo, I'm guessing it's important to match the reloads to the factory same bullet? I found a pretty good deal on Midway on Hornady's HAP 230grn JHP but I have no idea where I'd find a factory round that uses it.

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Falconeer,

Think about using lead bullets. You're not going to save any money reloading those high priced pills.

Regards,

Dave

 

[Falconeer]

Think about using lead bullets. You're not going to save any money reloading those high priced pills.

I used lead in my P228 (actually Precision Bullets 124grn LN round). I was under 1000 fps (according to the recipe; I don't have a chrony) and still was getting leading that was a nightmare to get out of the barrel. So I tend to go for bulk FMJ.

In terms of FMJ, what are the pros/cons of plated bullets?

John E.

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

If you're getting leading, your load or your bullet isn't the right size for the gun. If that gun was a 9MM made in Europe, you were probably using a bullet that was too small for the bore. 9MM's are notorious for leading if the slug isn't the right caliber for the bore and European 9's generally have larger bores than the American guns of the same caliber. Solution: Do a web search for slugging your bore, slug the bore of your barrel per instructions and buy the appropriate diameter slugs.

As far as .45ACP goes, it's tough to find a lead slug that'll "lead" the bore. The .45ACP just doesn't get up to the velocities to do that.

Regards,

Dave

 

[Falconeer]

If you're getting leading, your load or your bullet isn't the right size for the gun. If that gun was a 9MM made in Europe, you were probably using a bullet that was too small for the bore. 9MM's are notorious for leading if the slug isn't the right caliber for the bore and European 9's generally have larger bores than the American guns of the same caliber. Solution: Do a web search for slugging your bore, slug the bore of your barrel per instructions and buy the appropriate diameter slugs.

The pistol in question was a German Sig P228 so you may very well be correct. I don't have it any more, but I'll keep the procedure in mind for the future.

I'll give the lead bullets a try. However I'm going to mix up a batch of Ed's Red just in case.

 

[kimbernut]

.45ACP Setback

John are you still using Win. cases exclusively for reloading? The reason I ask is that I've never had a problem with set back on Win. cases but I have on another brand which turned out to be a bad lot with too thin case walls.
IMHO no set back is to be expected or justified and as others have mentioned a tighter crimp is not the answer. A check of case wall thickness may be in order on cases known to setback against cases that do not as well as a check of your size die I/S diameter and the diameter of the projectiles you are reloading.

 

[Falconeer]

John are you still using Win. cases exclusively for reloading? The reason I ask is that I've never had a problem with set back on Win. cases but I have on another brand which turned out to be a bad lot with too thin case walls.
IMHO no set back is to be expected or justified and as others have mentioned a tighter crimp is not the answer. A check of case wall thickness may be in order on cases known to setback against cases that do not as well as a check of your size die I/S diameter and the diameter of the projectiles you are reloading.

Hiya Don!
I have both Winchester and Remington cases I'm collecting/using. I finished up the 230grn Hornady HAP bullets I had; I have some Remmington 230grn FMJ en route from Midway USA. I'm using Lee Carbide dies in a Pro 1000. I'll do measurements and check when everything is in the same room.

Give me a yell next time you head out for pistol. I want you to try the GSR!

John E.