Well, since you are a new reloader--or at least new to pistols and HBWCs, I will lay out a couple of things.
First is that the big hollow cavity is the base of the bullet and goes into the case. HBWCs are customarily seated flush with the case mouth and a heavy roll crimp is applied. That is the way factory ammo comes. If you are in doubt, go to a sporting goods store and ask to look at some factory fodder and then use it as your guide.
You are not obliged to seat the bullets that deeply. Some believe that a long bullet jump in to the cylinder throat of a revolver is detrimental to accuracy and things might be improved by seating the bullet out just far enough to rest in the throat--but not far enough to interefere with proper loading.
HBWCs are not suited to much over low velocity/low pressure loads. High pressure loads have been known to spread the back end of the barrel (forcing cone) and ruin the barrel. In addition, they have an aerodynamic profile much like that of a brick wall and do not fly well if pushed over about 800 fps. 700-800 fps is the norm for these bullets and 50 yards is the accuracy limit: up to that 50 yard limit they can be superbly accurate.
If you really want to start out with a winning combination and save time, start with your HBWCs in .38 Special cases with a mild primer like the Remington small pistol 1&1/2 or Federal and about 2.7 grains of Bullseye. If you use .357 Magnum cases, you will need to use a tad more powder to make up for the extra room in the longer cases. Be careful with Bullseye, as one can double charge a case and destroy a revolver. Examine all of your powder filled cases in a loading block by looking into them with a flashlight. Look for any significant variance in powder level as a problem sign. When you have all of the cases, say 50, in one block and inspect like that it is easy to see a problem case.