Lock n Load AP???

[Parman]

I'm thinking of buying a LNL AP but before I do would like to here some of the pros and cons. I currently use a single stage and want to get a progressive press to reload 223, 45, 9mm 38/357. I will continue to use my single stage for larger caliber rifle cartridges.

From what I understand I will need to buy my shell plates separate. What else doesn't come with it that is absolutely necessary to get started? I do see a few accessories I will eventually get at time and money permits.

Thanks,
Don

 

[rsrocket1]

From an owner who moved up from a Lee Breechlock Challenger (3 weeks) to the LnL AP

I load 9/38/357/40/45/.223/308. All handgun rounds on the LnL AP part of the .223 and sometimes the .308 on the LnL AP.

LnL bushings for each die you have. You can get away with simply screwing in and out each die but it is false economy for the small added expense

1. Break cleaner, One Shot Gun Cleaner/Dry Lube or some other sort of degreaser. Absolutely required to clean the packing grease off the insides of the powder measure
2. Grease gun with zerk fitting
3. Primer flipper tray

With these items, so long as you mount the press firmly, you should be good to go for a while.

 

[John3921]

You can keep it simple and just buy the correct shell plate and dies, or you can choose to speed up your changeovers.

For a caliber change I figure it costs me $115 + dies.

Bushings for each die: $4/ea +/- You need 3 or 4. (Press comes with 5 IIRC.)
Quick change powder die: $29 (one comes with the press)
PTX expander (powder through expander insert) $11 (The press does not come with any ptx dies, it comes with a few non-case expanding inserts)
Shell plate $34 (None included with press)
Powder measure insert $10 (You'll get one pistol and one rifle with the press)
Quick change powder die linkage $8 (One comes with the press)


You can choose not to buy the powder die and just use the same die for each caliber - but then you have to either re-adjust the die & PTX to set your flare, or don't use the PTX at all and expand separately from the powder measure.

Same thing with the powder measure insert - you can readjust it every time for every caliber, or have one set up for each caliber. A couple drops to verify and you're good to go. Or buy a micrometer insert for $35 or so and reset it every time. The machine comes with 2 rotors and 2 inserts, one large and one small. For pistol you need the small.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I love my LNL. I guess I have loaded upwards of 100k on it....the only extras I used are a shell plates, powder cop die, and some extra bushings.

 

[sl33py]

I found the Hornady setup videos helpful to understand how it works and what is/isn't included. Besides the accessories you need with any press, it seems like only the shell plate and dies aren't included. For the basic setup. Adding a case feeder of some sort and other stuff obviously will make it run faster.

Here's the first of the 12 videos they have:
https://youtu.be/-8rRDz6fXbo

I saw the LNL on Jet.com for 329.00 with an expire coupon - i'd check retailmenot or similar coupon sites to see if something pops up to save some $.

GL!

 

[rsrocket1]

Same thing with the powder measure insert - you can readjust it every time for every caliber, or have one set up for each caliber. A couple drops to verify and you're good to go

Or you can determine that 5.0g Unique works very well in 9/38/40/45 and never have to change the powder measure insert or change the setting!

Me, I figure about $120 for a new caliber, but that's just for the dies, bushings, shellplate and a 6 cavity mold to cast the new caliber bullets.

 

[9mmepiphany]

What else doesn't come with it that is absolutely necessary to get started?

Bushings and Hornady Lock Rings for each die.

Extra quick change powder dies are very convenient. I use one for 9mm and .45 ACP because it is only a 4mm difference (about 4 spins) and another for .38/.357 .

I have separate powder measure inserts for different loads as opposed to the micrometer on...because you can buy 3 for the price of 1.

I don't use the PTX and expand using the Lyman M-die...but that's just personal preference.

I'd recommend additional primer tubes as you'll find that that is the ultimate limit on your output

 

[119er]

All good info above. I'll add that I bought a 10 pack of the bushings but I only use 3-4 of them. None of my dies fit back in their boxes with the bushings on them. I just switch the dies out in the bushings when I change over. The bushings go back in the same holes and I just spin them off of one die and on the other. The lock rings stay locked to the dies so nothing changes.

I use the RCBS lock-out die for pistol and the Hornady Powder Cop for rifle and I consider these a must to back up good practices. The cop requires you pay attention to it every stroke, whereas the Lock out allows me to see powder and continue. It will lock up if there is a problem.

I have an Inline Fab press handle on mine too and like it.

The case feeder makes life so much easier, well worth it IMO.

I have switched to bench priming any brass that was crimped before, just makes life easier.

Just check the options and weigh your decisions. Once you start with any brand, you're pretty much married to it!

 

[John3921]

All good info above. I'll add that I bought a 10 pack of the bushings but I only use 3-4 of them. None of my dies fit back in their boxes with the bushings on them. I just switch the dies out in the bushings when I change over. The bushings go back in the same holes and I just spin them off of one die and on the other. The lock rings stay locked to the dies so nothing changes.

I use the RCBS lock-out die for pistol and the Hornady Powder Cop for rifle and I consider these a must to back up good practices. The cop requires you pay attention to it every stroke, whereas the Lock out allows me to see powder and continue. It will lock up if there is a problem.

I have an Inline Fab press handle on mine too and like it.

The case feeder makes life so much easier, well worth it IMO.

I have switched to bench priming any brass that was crimped before, just makes life easier.

Just check the options and weigh your decisions. Once you start with any brand, you're pretty much married to it!

No the dies with bushings won't fit in die boxes.

So I picked up some tuperware or some such thing food containers and I put everything for a single caliber change into the container. Dies & bushings, powder insert, quick change powder die, ptx, linkage bar, shell plate. All together in one spot. (which is good since I can loose darn near anything)

About the only thing I share is the shellplate for .223 and .380 acp since they are the same shellplate.

 

[mantawolf]

You can order the hornady die boxes that are designed to hold the dies with the bushings in them. Also believe that mtm makes a box that will hold them.

 

[mantawolf]

You can order the hornady die boxes that are designed to hold the dies with the bushings in them. Also believe that mtm makes a box that will hold them.

The hornady boxes can be ordered from midway.

 

[Armymutt]

You might find the priming system to be a PIA, but then I've heard it's the weak link in most progressive presses. I like my LNL AP, but I still need to work out some issues. The biggest problem I have is that it doesn't always index the shell plate properly. I have to nudge it just a bit each time. I've adjusted the pawls, but nothing works.

Get extra springs for the shell plate. They kink pretty easily. They can be used kinked, but they will eventually wear out.

 

[THEWELSHM]

Got 3 years and thousands of Magnum loads on my LNL enjoy. Watch Highboy YouTube videos it'll run like a charm

Thewelshm

 

[John3921]

You might find the priming system to be a PIA, but then I've heard it's the weak link in most progressive presses. I like my LNL AP, but I still need to work out some issues. The biggest problem I have is that it doesn't always index the shell plate properly. I have to nudge it just a bit each time. I've adjusted the pawls, but nothing works.

Get extra springs for the shell plate. They kink pretty easily. They can be used kinked, but they will eventually wear out.

I had trouble with incomplete indexing. I had to pause at neutral position and let the index happen, then move forward to prime. I finally figured out the primer was moving up above the shuttle / subplate and binding on the bottom of the case before the plate was indexed.

I ended up grinding a very small amount (0.020) off of the press body where the primer seating post contacts it. Now press indexes properly and I don't have to pause at neutral before the priming operation.

 

[cfullgraf]

None of my dies fit back in their boxes with the bushings on them.

Dies with L-N-L bushings will fit in the RCBS die boxes. One of the saddles in the box nearest the lid clasp needs to be trimmed out but that is the only modification.

I've been told Lyman boxes are the same design as the RCBS boxes so they should work as well.

Redding boxes will not work since they mold loading blocks in the lid.

I use primarily Redding and RCBS dies with one or two Lee and Hornady tossed in.

 

[Blue68f100]

You might find the priming system to be a PIA, but then I've heard it's the weak link in most progressive presses. I like my LNL AP, but I still need to work out some issues. The biggest problem I have is that it doesn't always index the shell plate properly. I have to nudge it just a bit each time. I've adjusted the pawls, but nothing works.

Get extra springs for the shell plate. They kink pretty easily. They can be used kinked, but they will eventually wear out.

My priming system work flawlessly for the last 7 yrs. There are a few thing you can do to make it so, but the main thing is have it in proper alignment at the top stroke so it picks up a primer. Mine is the older model that has not been updated. I have the rod adj so it has a longer straight section at the top stroke where it picks up the primers. This must be true vertical to have a long dwell time. As for as indexing make sure you have not chipped a paw. If so have Hornady send you a replacement. You should be able to adj the paw so it does not need to be nudged. I recently had the primer anvil punch replaced and was glad to see that they redesigned it. Now the crud does not make it stick up, and resist side force.

Like already mentioned bushing, shell plates are the main thing. Others can be added as you see the needed for added convenience and/or speed of change over.

 

[Parman]

To all that replied I thank you. I have gained a wealth of knowledge reading thru these replies. Guess I'm going to go pick me up a new LNL press today after work with a couple of the shell plates and bushings I need to get me going.

I watched the you tube videos last night as well.

Getting excited to go pick it up today.

 

[BYJO4]

I think you will enjoy the LNL AP and it will produce fine ammo. I've had 2 now for almost 5 years (one set up for small primer and one for large primer). I've had no priming issues or broken parts in almost 90,000 rounds. I did send one press back to Hornady (they paid shipping) the day after buying it to correct several issues. I had it back on my bench in 6 days and have not made an adjustment to it since. I did adjust one pawl on the other press once since getting it.

 

[thomas15]

Another happy LnL owner. I agree with what John3921 in post #3 said regarding items to make caliber change overs easy.

A couple of comments. John mentioned about the linkages and powder measure lowers for each caliber. For 38 and 357 you will be able to use the same shell plate and dies but unless you want to readjust the powder drop every time you go from one to the other you should get the powder lowers for each (38&357). If you use a powder drop (assuming that you use the PTX to flair the case mouth) if it is adjusted for 38 you will crush a 357 case and not probably reach a 38 case with one adjusted for 357. I would spend the money for one of each as adjusting the powder drop when using the PTX is a bit of a PITA.

For the powder measure insert you really don't need one for every caliber if you are ok with adjusting the powder flow for each application. I purchased the micrometer adjuster for the pistol drum and really love it.

I have been using my LnL for about 6 months now and have loaded probably 5000 rounds maybe more of 9mm and 38 spl. I'm not going to do rifle on it, that I do on my rockchucker as I don't shoot enough rifle to justify it. The LnL is a good press.

Cleaning the powder measure on a new LnL is a real chore. The only negative, all else is handloading bliss.

 

[AR-Bossman]

I now use the Hornady powder measure drain insert since taking apart my PTX setup is a PIA. IT works pretty good.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I now use the Hornady powder measure drain insert since taking apart my PTX setup is a PIA. IT works pretty good.

I'm a little confused here.

How are you emptying your powder measure that it would require taking apart your PTX setup?

Don't you just give the bushing holding the powder measure a quarter turn, lift it off the press, take off the cap, and pour the powder back into it's container?

 

[thomas15]

^^^That is one way to do it. Another is to remove the spring on the powder drop linkage, then the linkage stop itself, then remove the thumb screw that connects the linkage to the powder measure lower then lift the upper assembly from the lower, remove the cap and pour the powder back into the bottle. This may sound like a lot more work but it really isn't. I don't find it to be easy to remove the entire powder measure using the bushing.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I agree that that is another way to do it, but the question remains...Why?

What would be the advantage of essentially disassembling your powder measure just to pour the powder back into it's container. Not having to do that is one of the major advantages of the LNL Bushing System.

Perhaps I'm missing something...I've only been reloading a couple of years...maybe someone can point out the difficulty of using the quarter turn, lift and pour method

 

[John3921]

I have a drain insert (I made it actually before I knew Hornady made such a thing). I rarely use it. Either 1/4 turn and lift or take off the upper half of the PM depending on what I'm trying to accomplish.

 

[AR-Bossman]

With all 5 stations full, even getting to my bushing is next to impossible and you sure as heck aren't gonna turn the whole powder measure to get it out.

Powder drain insert really does work well.