Looking for a tough, clear finish for a painted stock

[Sergeant Sabre]

I was bored and decided to paint my ugly factory Savage synthetic stock. I used Krylon Fusion Satin Black and Krylon Gray Webbing Spray. I also applied Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic. The finish isn't quite as durable as I would like.

So, I'm looking for a very tough, clear, non-shiny, finish to put over the paint. Something tough-as-nails, preferably. Can anybody recommend a product that fits the bill?

 

[GunNut]

Maybe go someplace like Home Depot/Lowes and ask them?

Let us know what you end up using, I've got a 10/22 that I need to paint for my oldest daughter.

Steve

 

[Sergeant Sabre]

Ya, that's probably best.

I am really happy about the way it turned out. I will post pictures for you, if you like. Perhaps your daughter will like the pattern, as well.

 

[GunNut]

Yes, please do post pics.

I've got a few rifles that i've been considering painting, but always chicken out.

Steve

 

[rbernie]

The problem with 'tough' is that it often proves brittle and chips easily. I've found that clear laquer often works best for 'working surfaces' not because it's especially hardy but because it's very easy to fix. In other words, unlike enamels, the finish surface on a lacquer can easily be 'moved around' and rubbed out. This allows spot repairs to be made very easily; lightly respray the offending area and spend about five minutes with some fine-grit sandpaper, steel wool, and then rubbing compound.

Et voila! No more chips and a smooth satin finish....

 

[Roudy]

SKS stock

I have an SKS that has a stock made from an "Ugly" tree, tried a composite stock but it wouldn't work with iron sight. So..I just painted it with a cheap flat black paint, one or two light coats and it looks much, much better. I haven't had any chips yet, but a little more spray paint and it will be fine again.

I suppose if you are looking for something a little more exotic you could use a wrinkle paint to give the stock a little more pizzaz.

 

[LAK]

I think the problem might be finding something that will not react with the applied paint. Brownells has some epoxy clear finishes for wood and metal, but I do not know about painted surfaces.

The problem with 'tough' is that it often proves brittle and chips easily. I've found that clear laquer often works best for 'working surfaces' not because it's especially hardy but because it's very easy to fix. In other words, unlike enamels, the finish surface on a lacquer can easily be 'moved around' and rubbed out. This allows spot repairs to be made very easily; lightly respray the offending area and spend about five minutes with some fine-grit sandpaper, steel wool, and then rubbing compound.

Et voila! No more chips and a smooth satin finish....

Much in the same way oil finishes can be maintained or repaired as opposed to hard varnishes.
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