Looking to purchase my first AR. I could use input/advise.

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Desertrat357

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So, I am very new to the AR game. I am looking to purchase my first AR rifle. I have been doing a lot of research, but I feel like I haven't made much progress yet. Let me explain a little bit what I am looking for:

-I would prefer to spend no more than $800-$900 total.

-I don't feel competent enough with this platform to "build one", yet.

-I am not loyal to any particular brand for an AR.

-My main concern is reliability/longevity, with pinpoint accuracy being a secondary concern.

Some key things that I am hoping to have a better understanding of:

What is so important about chrome-lining/chrome plating when it comes to AR's? Does everything need to be coated and the barrel chrome lined?

Are AR-15's relatively corrosion resistant? Are the uppers and lowers typically made of traditional blued steel? I've read some are made from aluminum? Obviously, they aren't rust proof, but being able to withstand the elements, at least to a point, would be a benefit.

I know there are some budget AR's, I.E. the Ruger AR-556, S&W MP-15 Sport. Are these actually a good value, or would a little bit more money invested be a better plan. I realize this is somewhat long winded. I just want to make a good first choice on my first AR.
 
"What is so important about chrome-lining/chrome plating when it comes to AR's? Does everything need to be coated and the barrel chrome lined?"

Durability is concern. It is a hard surface that will stands up well against a lot of things including heat, corrosion, etc and helps protect the riffling from erosion. Often good chrome lined barrel will last many thousands of rounds. Melonite is also said to have similar properties.

Are AR-15's relatively corrosion resistant? Are the uppers and lowers typically made of traditional blued steel? I've read some are made from aluminum? Obviously, they aren't rust proof, but being able to withstand the elements, at least to a point, would be a benefit.

Yes, they are very corrosion resistant. No they aren't usually made of steel, they are generally made of aluminum alloy billet or forged aluminum alloy. Either billet or forged are good, billet are often higher end because they often have a nicer, smoother "finish" or fancy designs. You may find some that are made of polymer. Avoid polymer.

I know there are some budget AR's, I.E. the Ruger AR-556, S&W MP-15 Sport. Are these actually a good value, or would a little bit more money invested be a better plan. I realize this is somewhat long winded. I just want to make a good first choice on my first AR.

Ruger seems like the best value on paper and probably is the best valued entry level AR from a major manufacture. The M&P 15 Sport lacks the ejection port cover (sometimes called dust cover) and the forward assist (forward assist nearly useless but they also don't do any harm sitting there in the odd event you may need it one day), and they hve 1:9 twist ratio rifling which isn't as desirable at 1:7 twist rate for heavier bullets which you may eventually get into if you want to do any serious shooting/hunting. ARs these days are almost a commodity and many of the major manufactures source parts and receivers from common manufactures. If you want to play it safe and stay economical you could stick with major manufactures with entry level options. S&W, Ruger, Colt, and Aero Precision are decent, safe, entry to mid level manufactures that have large corporations to back their warranties. There are other smaller companies like Palmetto State Armory that also make quality entry-mid level (avoid PTAC from Palmetto, get items labeled as "Premium" to get "Mil-Spec quality) as well.
 
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To answer your questions, the upper and lower receiver are both aluminum, which means they are rust-proof. The barrel, of course, is steel. There's no reason to be concerned about corrosion resistance with an AR -- these things aren't traditional hunting rifles with blued steel.

Chrome-lined barrels make them resistant to corrosion at the cost of reducing accuracy somewhat. If you aren't slogging through the swamp it honestly doesn't really matter. I prefer the extra accuracy of a non-lined barrel myself.

The MP-15 Sport has long been considered an excellent entry level AR-15. I wouldn't hesitate to pick one up. If you are looking for a bare-bones AR, that would be it. I can't comment on the Ruger, but I'd recommend looking at Rock River Arms as well. I've been very happy with both of mine, and the accuracy can't be beat.
 
Get an AR that fits your budget. Shoot it. Clean it sometimes and shoot s'more. Repeat.
Don't sweet the small stuff.
 
I actually put my first one together just tonight. I used a complete upper with a nitride barrel and assembled the rest using a stripped lower and parts kits. It was absolutely simple as pie and I only have $585 dollars in it including the magazine. You should rethink a simple build like this.
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Jimster,

I do like the idea of "building" my own. I just probably haven't considered it do to my lack of knowledge. Is there a particular place that has these kits to assemble one? I'm assuming that the upper would still need to be purchased through an FFL? Again, I apologize for the novice questions
 
Jimster,

I do like the idea of "building" my own. I just probably haven't considered it do to my lack of knowledge. Is there a particular place that has these kits to assemble one? I'm assuming that the upper would still need to be purchased through an FFL? Again, I apologize for the novice questions


The lower is the only item that requires an FFL and it is considered the firearm. Palmetto State Armory has kits as do others.
 
Snapping a prebuilt lower, onto a prebuilt upper, isn't "putting together an AR".

So I recommend buying a BCM upper complete, and snapping it onto any lower. Colt and LMT are also good.

All AR's are mostly Al. All the steel parts on the inside are soaked in lube. So they're very corrosion resistant. Look towards chrome milspec barrels and melonite barrels for now. Save the SS barrels for your next AR.
 
It's not so much "building" an AR as it is "Assembling" one.

With your budget, $800-$900, I'd go out and buy a Colt. Either a 6720 or a 6920, and you'll have a quality AR that many think of as the Gold Standard.

For much less, you can buy a stripped lower (with FFL transfer) or a complete lower (also FFL transfer) and a complete upper.

The stripped lower will also require some tools. These tools CAN be expensive if you don't have them, or anything suitable. If you don't have the tools, add that cost into your total initially, and it might put your closer to the $800-$900 budget. But, you'll have the tools forever and you'll use them for future AR builds.

For a novice, I'd recommend against assembling one. Get some hands on time with a completed rifle, open it up, strip it, see how everything works, more or less, then contemplate assembling one yourself later.

Tinkering with a AR is easy. There a millions of aftermarket parts and accessories. Modification is easy. And quite frankly, if you enjoy the AR, you'll want more. I've got a carbine I've modified, a pistol I assembled from stripped receivers, and I've got two lowers, one stripped, the other mostly assembled awaiting parts.

Good luck, in whatever decision you make.
 
So on the colt, they do look like a nice rifle. I noticed there is a different barrel profile comparing the 6720 vs. the 6920. Are there any other major differences I should know to look for? Also, a lot of them referred to "2013 Configuration" what does that mean?
 
Colt 6920. After 2013 they no longer come with the carry handle included so you have to buy that if desired ($50.00 for a milspec one). It's the closest thing to a real deal M-4 in terms of construction, tolerances, and overall appearance. Many other AR's would be just as good, some would surely be better in some areas, but the Colt is the yardstick most will measure against. Not that you might be considering this, but it should hold its value fairly well. I bought my daughters each a 6920 about a year and a half ago; the overall quality and fit was as you would expect for the extra money they cost--the quality control and attention to detail was obvious.
 
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If you dont want to build it( im asuming you mean build everything like trigger and bolt group things like that) just find yourself a nice lower and a nice upper for a fair price and then its just 2 pins to assemble and theres your ar. I wish thats what iwould have done but live and learn i guess.
 
I would buy a Colt 6920 and never look back. Great guns. Accurate and very dependable. You can buy one for about$900.00 New
 
I would say the general consensus, so far, is that a Colt is an awesome deal. I am still doing some research on the 6920/6720 comparison, personally I would prefer the heavier barrel profile. I wish the colt website was a little more descriptive. And what about the recent announcement of Colt filing bankruptcy? Does this mean they are done mnfg. firearms or slowing down?
 
Within your budget I'd suggest you take a look at the colt 6920 and 6720.

The main difference in the 2 is barrel profile/weight. Both are well built, reliable carbines that are within your stated budget.

Of the two, I'd lean a bit more toward the 6720. Does anything the 6920 would, is a bit lighter, and most would say better balanced.
 
I would say the general consensus, so far, is that a Colt is an awesome deal. I am still doing some research on the 6920/6720 comparison, personally I would prefer the heavier barrel profile. I wish the colt website was a little more descriptive. And what about the recent announcement of Colt filing bankruptcy? Does this mean they are done mnfg. firearms or slowing down?
Colt will undoubtedly continue to stay in the business of manufacturing firearms. Either under current management or they will be purchased, but it nay case I don't see Colt going away. If they were purchased by the right organization with the right leadership it might be a very good thing.
 
At today's prices, I would by a complete major brand cheap gun like a S&W, Ruger, DPMS, Bushmaster etc and play with it. If you want to upgrade parts or upper later you can. Those guns are as good as most people will ever need. At least the gun will be put together correctly, the parts will work together and have a warrantee.
 
Like most all these type threads, it's jumped all over. To simplify...

Most any AR, but particularly ones like the Ruger or S&W are quite adequate for a vast majority of shooters

If you intend to run it hard (carbine classes, LE, etc.) get something like the Colt for more reliability under hard use. I'm surprised the term "milspec" hasn't surfaced. The components of milspec seem to vary and the necessity of mil spec depends on who responds.

There are three levels of "build" an AR....

Easiest is the snap together. Buy a separate upper and lower. Takes literally ten seconds. Saves a little money since there is not a federal tax on a complete firearm. Resale may be lower if the names on upper and lower don't match, but you can get closer to what you may want if it's something non-standard.

Second is buy a complete upper and stripped lower. Putting the trigger group and other parts into a stripped lower takes 20-45 minutes depending on your tools and skill level. Watch some YouTube clips to get an idea.

Total builds are more complicated. Probably ought to pass on that unless you're up to the challenge.

But, read the post just ahead if this. IMO, it's pretty much spot on.

HTH
 
Can't go wrong with Colt, that's for sure.

If you want a quality AR at a budget price, then consider Palmetto State Armory. Be sure to buy one that has an FN barrel. I don't think you can buy a better barrel than an FN barrel.

That said, don't worry about a melonite (as opposed to chrome) lined barrel. I think every one of my melonite ARs outshoots my chrome lined ARs. Melonite ARs are usually cheaper, too!
 
I don't think you can buy a better barrel than an FN barrel.

That depends on your end game. They're durable, but the CHF FN barrels won't hold a candle to many machined and cut or button rifled barrels for accuracy.

That said, don't worry about a melonite (as opposed to chrome) lined barrel. I think every one of my melonite ARs outshoots my chrome lined ARs. Melonite ARs are usually cheaper, too!

CL bores have to be made oversize to account for the lining, and generally aren't going to be as precise as a bore that is finished after rifling. Nitrided tubes are just treated, so there's no change in the internal dimensions after rifling. That's why they, as well as parkerized/phosphated and stainless tubes, tend to be more accurate.
 
I understand this thread has strayed a bit. Lots of good information. I appreciate everyone's input. I've been looking at the Palmetto State Armory website. Do they actually sell a turn key AR-15? Don't get me wrong, the colt still sounds really good. If I get a more entry level one such as the Ruger or S&W, I could get a couple cases of ammunition with the savings!! Perhaps I don't need to get a better than good AR. It does make sense to familiarize myself with this platform without a huge investment.
 
I understand this thread has strayed a bit. Lots of good information. I appreciate everyone's input. I've been looking at the Palmetto State Armory website. Do they actually sell a turn key AR-15? Don't get me wrong, the colt still sounds really good. If I get a more entry level one such as the Ruger or S&W, I could get a couple cases of ammunition with the savings!! Perhaps I don't need to get a better than good AR. It does make sense to familiarize myself with this platform without a huge investment.
Yes they have completed rifles
http://palmettostatearmory.com/firearms/rifles/palmetto-state-armory.html

It's often cheaper to get an complete barreled upper and complete lower separately. They snap together using two pins and takes about 5 seconds.

Upper
http://palmettostatearmory.com/ar-15-05/barreled-upper-assemblies.html
Lower
http://palmettostatearmory.com/ar-15-05/lowers.html
You'll also need some sort of rear site
http://palmettostatearmory.com/ar-15-05/upper-parts/sights.html
 
The PSA uppers have different quality levels like Premium and Freedom. Are there also quality levels for the complete lowers? It seems like the only choice is the brand of stock.
 
The PSA uppers have different quality levels like Premium and Freedom. Are there also quality levels for the complete lowers? It seems like the only choice is the brand of stock.
I haven't looked closely at the completed lowers, but at a glance it looks like it is the stock/grip arrangements that are the differentiating factors. I'm guessing outside of that they all have the standard PSA lower parts kit installed which is basically a "Mil-spec" kit Nothing fancy but adequate for the average AR shooter.
 
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