loose barrel link pin

[2rott]

I own a DW Patriot 1911 45, purchased new several years ago. Hardly ever fired it until recently. Took it down to clean it & the Barrel link pin fell out each time. Now it's so loose I can't put the pistol back together. If I tilt the gun even slightly when trying to put the slide stop in, the link pin slides out into the gun. Any suggestions?

 

[earlthegoat2]

Might have to peen it into place LIGHTLY.

You really need pictures as I tried to explain it but then realized the instructions were terrible.

Ive had links that are loose like this too but I has only been a mild annoyance during reassembly and they have functioned fine.

 

[earlthegoat2]

Here is where to seat your punch before you give it the whack. Do it lightly and you may only have to do one side. But sometimes both. Just do it lightly as you may need to remove it somewhere down the line.

Brace the link area with some hardwood (maple or oak, or some nice dense plastic)

 

[2rott]

Earthgoat2, so I put the punch right between the pin & surrounding metal? What size punch? Thanks.

 

[earlthegoat2]

A center punch with a nice point on it. yes on the outside of the pin area where it touches the inside of the hole.

Once again though, it is not really necessary since the pin area is going to be inside the frame of the gun and it will trap it there.

Look at your frame where the link pin/slide release goes through. It is barely wider than the barrel link area. That is where the pin will be trapped and not come out.

Could always get an oversized pin too. Ed Brown makes them. It would compliment all the other Ed Brown parts on that gun.

 

[2rott]

Earthgoat2. Right now it falls out readily when the slide is on, before I push in the slide stop. If an over sized pin will solve the problem & not interfere with function,that sounds like the safest solution. Didn't know I had Ed Brown parts.
If I go the peening route, could there ever be a reason to have to take the pin out again? Thanks.

 

[earlthegoat2]

You would not ever HAVE to take the pin out. If you replaced the barrel for instance, you could just get a new link and pin to go with it. They are cheap.

If you peen it lightly though you should still be able to take it out if need be with a drift punch.

Yeah, I know for a few years CZ/Dan Wesson 1911s had Ed Brown grip safeties, thumb safeties, triggers, maybe even sears hammers and disconnectors as well. Not sure all of them.

 

[BBBBill]

I've owned 1911s since 1964. Before this modern era of cutting corners everywhere you can, all link pins were staked in place. Military guns were first of course and the civilian production was identical save the markings and finish. That was pretty much Colt until the last 35-40 years. Now that everyone makes a 1911, they all try to save a buck to get their share of the market.
Prick punch right next to the hole on each side. You are not trying to crush the hole, just move a tiny bit of metal to retain the pin. Correctly done, the pin will stay in place, yet be easily removed with a punch when/if the need arises.

 

[2rott]

Thanks guys. I peened the pin in a couple places inside the edge of the hole & it seems to be holding.

 

[earlthegoat2]

If it does not hold there is nothing wrong with hitting the punch a little harder.

The idea is to only peen it just enough to hold it in place and no more. Keep checking it after you fire it to see how it holds up.

 

[2rott]

earlthegoat2 If it does not hold there is nothing wrong with hitting the punch a little harder.

The idea is to only peen it just enough to hold it in place and no more. Keep checking it after you fire it to see how it holds up.


Good advice. Thanks.

 

[1911Tuner]

A question looms:

Why did the pin get loose in the first place? It's supposed to be press fit.

Is it loose due to bad cherry-pickin' during the assembly...or did it loosen up because the barrel was being stopped by the link?

If it's the former, staking is okay as an expedient repair, but it really should be properly addressed with an oversized pin.

If it's the latter, and the problem is ongoing...it'll loosen up again and possibly damage the lower barrel lug...if it hasn't already. In any event, the hole is probably egg-shaped, and the link possibly stretched.

 

[Powersgt]

wrong link?

1911tunner,

You would probably know better than I. If the wrong link is installed in the gun, this would cause barrel timing issues and force pressure on the link and link pin. If I am correct in thinking, the barrel lugs should rest on the slide stop pin which should keep the barrel in battery and take up the pressure from recoil. What do you think?

 

[Jim K]

Ideally, those pins should be a tight slip fit (not a press fit) and be rounded off on the ends so the barrel lug can be staked to keep them in. But with makers who think "spec" is a dirty word, the buyer can expect anything.

Jim

 

[1911Tuner]

Powersgt...The length of the link can have a decided effect on linkdown timing. You're correct in stating that the barrel shoud be supported by the lower lug bearing on the slidestop crosspin, and that long-linking can also contribute to th pin becoming loose...but not because of recoil. Rather by the hard camming pressure on the link as it's forced to over center after the barrel has gone as far as it can go in the slide.

Ideally, those pins should be a tight slip fit

How do we differentiate between a tight slip and a light press fit? I don't want to have to pound it in with a hammer, but neither do I want to be able to press it in with my thumb. Assuming a round hole and a centrless ground pin, there's only about 2/10ths (of an inch) difference between pushing it in with thumb pressure alone, and an interference fit that requires tapping it in.