Loose Stock on M1 Garand

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The Alaskan

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I've just been working with my M1 (S.A./1953) replacing the gas port plug and noticed that the whole gun is loose in the lower stock. Alarmingly loose. It has sat in storage the last 15 plus years so my memory isn't clear, but I don't remember it ever being so loose.

If I hold the pistol grip in my right hand, and the barrel just behind the front sight with the left hand, I can move the barrel up and down a fraction of an inch. I haven't put a feeler gauge in there, but it's several sheets of paper thick (you can clearly see the gap) and moving the barrel up and down makes a dull "clunk sound (which I assume is the lower stock hitting the upper stock-wood on wood).

This can't be normal. Comments anyone?

PS: If I hold the lower stock in the left hand, grab the action with my right there is a slight (much less than up front) movement there as well. The trigger group fits okay (I assume it fits okay-it goes into the gun and locks down.), but the barrel/action comes out of the stock pretty easy when disassembling.
 
Remove the trigger group which if we think about it is the only thing keeping the receiver group secured in the stock. Now replace the trigger group slowly and note where the trigger guard starts showing resistance:

Trig%20Group%201.png

If the trigger guard just flops down waiting for you to snap it in place the odds are the stock wood is crushed. The simple fix is some veneer walnut:

Trig%20Group%202.png

That is where I would start.

Ron
 
I would agree with Relodron.
Also you can store the gun wihout haviving the trigger guard locked down and avoid this in the future.
 
Harumph!

I was hoping to avoid modifications. I'm thinking of getting back into DCM Service Rifle with it, which means no modification/must be in "as issued" configuration. Definitely no shims. I could just replace the entire stock, but no guarantee that the 60 year old stock I buy, even from CMP, wouldn't be just as bad as the one I have.

I'm headed out to the range in about 20 minutes to shoot it for the first time in a long time. Let's just see just how bad it really is. Shimming can be a temp fix for range work (and I much prefer the idea of veneer over "business cards" which is another fix I read on the internet ugh), but I don't think shimming can be a permanent fix.

I'll check back with you guys tomorrow.

Thanks.
 
Well, if you want to get back into DCM shooting you will need to go way back. :)

CMP Service Rifle and NRA Service Rifle do allow for some modifications to the rifle. They actually do allow for some stock modifications:

Internal modifications may be made to improved functioning and accuracy. A
special match barrel may be installed. Synthetic material may be applied to the
interior of the stock to improve bedding. No modification may interfere with the
original functioning of the rifle and its safety devices.
Stocks may have any color. Metals may have any finish. Metal components
may be either steel or aluminum alloy.
Click to expand...

I would contact CMP who will resolve this in a moment. I have seen plenty of trigger pads bedded over the years in as issued service rifle competition but since it has been awhile I would just check with the CMP for good dope. Just a phone call away.

Ron
 
A action that does not fit tight in the stock will affect accuracy no matter how tight the trigger group locks shut. You will have fliers. There should be ZERO fore and aft movement of the action with the trigger group removed from the stock . Movement as you say you havewith the trigger group installed shows a extrememly worn stock.
The ONLY fix is to glass bed the stock or replace it
You should also check the lugs on the trigger guard, they should be perfec tly round with no flat spots. If there is any wear to them replace it along with the stock
 
Interesting. I didn't think you could glass bed a rifle and it still be legal for competition. Did that rule change from long ago, or was I just misinformed?

OK so back from the range. Fired 20 rounds in 3 shot groups over the course of about an hour. This was standard Winchester 150 grn Power Point cup and core hunting ammo. I used a 6 o clock sight picture. I used a rifle rest to support the forearm. Checked the target after every shot.

First 3 I fired at 50 yrds just to be sure I was on paper. Horrible group. About 3" in a triangle at 8 o clock. Pushed the target out to 100 yrds. Most of the rounds strung vertically, almost in a straight line 8 o clock to 11 o clock about 2" left of the x ring. Firing in 3 shot groups, after a short while, I had about 12 holes within 4-5" of each other, with some holes (from different groupings) touching each other. Adjusted the rear sight 1 click right and fired the last 5 rounds, which, oddly enough, hit at 6 o clock in about a 3" area.

The whole 20 rounds, sight adjustments and all, stayed inside a 6" black circle, most of them strung vertically left of the bull's eye.

To my interpretation, that is the barrel rising up and down, loose in the stock, after each shot and resting in a new spot every time. (I have no idea about the last 5 rounds.)
 
Bedded stock is not legal for JCG as issued matches. I was just telling you the only real fixes for a loose action in a stock, either bed or replace it.
You can order a commercial stock set from Dupage Trading for alittle over $100
 
For regular NRA/CMP service rifle, you could have it bedded. If it's that loose, it's got zero chance of shooting well. I'd start with a new stock which will be quite a bit cheaper.
 
Good morning sports fans. 5 am here and already burning off breakfast before work. LOL.

I appreciate all the input. I've never had to deal with a stock issue on any of my guns before. I've been lucky, I guess.

As pretty much the unanimous suggestion is some sort of stock rework or replacement, I'll start making steps in that direction. Does anyone know of a particularly good how-to website, youtube video, or commercial DVD on a D.I.Y. bedding of a Garand? As the stock I have now can't be made any worse, and the Acralass Gel and Brownell's is pretty cost effective, I'm thinking of having a go at it on my own. If I do a poor job and have to buy a new stock, it's not like I'm out anything.

Or am I just barking up the wrong tree and should just outright replace the stock as step 1?
 
OK so back from the range. Fired 20 rounds in 3 shot groups over the course of about an hour. This was standard Winchester 150 grn Power Point cup and core hunting ammo.
Click to expand...
Is this ammo safe for use in an unmodified/stock Garand? I thought not.

---

ETA - Never mind. Saw in another thread that you've addressed the gas plug.
 
While I mentioned bedding the trigger group pads and only the trigger group pads I agree the best solution is simply replace the stock. Years ago I used Boyds but matters not as they are all about the same in quality and price. You can place a good receiver in walnut including matching hand guards for about $120 give or take.

Ron
 
Thanks for those weblinks and suggestions, guys.

Yeah, at $160 shipped, I see no reason to mess with the old stock. I've got some other priorities at the moment, so this will have to wait probably two paychecks, but this is a pretty easy solution.

I wonder if this gun has done this the whole time I had and never noticed or if this is just a result of 15 years of storage. Either way...no big deal really.
 
As for bedding, you would probably want the Kuhnhausen shop manual. There were a couple pretty good articles on aspects of the work in the Lane's Tips section at www.jouster.com (now gone, but they're still around if you fish back into the 2002 timeframe via the waybackmachine).

A lot of the M14 bedding stuff would apply to the M1 as well. It doesn't really take any special tools, just careful work.
 
There is a lot of good information here http://forums.thecmp.org/
I have a spare stock that was repaired in the area that reloadron showed you. They cut out some wood, fit in new pieces and brass tacked them in place. I think that is legal for matches. The repair to the trigger housing is common.
Check your crown.
How much play do you have in the gas tube assembly? If it's loose that can effect accuracy.
 
Stock shims of various types are typically prohibited for match use. Double check with the governing body of the class that you are interesting in competing in.

If your just using a Garand with a loose stock and need to improve lock-up, shims are just the ticket. Be very careful though as working on the wood will detract from any collector value of the stock. Nothing worse than seeing a very early no trap Winchester stock with glass bedding in it.

Best,

Don
 
Thanks folks. I've just been looking at the bank account. I'm going to wait two weeks until he next pay check and then order the Dupage stock. (Which is $160 shipped to Alaska; we pay more for everything-just because we can.)

To my knowledge, the gun isn't a collector's piece. As near as I can tell, it is mostly S.A. parts, but the number on the bolt doesn't match the number on the receiver. (At least, I don't think it does. I don;t know for certain.) I don't even know what barrel is on it. There are no import stamps, not even a CMP (well, it would have been DCM for this gun) marks on it that I can find either. (none on the gun/none on the stock) Fairly certain it is not a gas trap gun-just by the 1953 year marking on the receiver. I wish I knew more about the history of the gun, but I don't think it's possible to learn much else about it.

That brings up a interesting point: should I hold on to the old stock as "the original" or should I chuck it?
 
DCM and CMP Garands were never Import marked as they were never imported. I would keep the stock, you may find a use for it oneday
What doyou mean by the 1953 mark on the receiver??
Receivers were not dated, "some" did have rebuild dates etched on the receiver legs but that was only in the 1960's
 
Orlando said:
DCM and CMP Garands were never Import marked as they were never imported. I would keep the stock, you may find a use for it oneday
What doyou mean by the 1953 mark on the receiver??
Receivers were not dated, "some" did have rebuild dates etched on the receiver legs but that was only in the 1960's
Click to expand...
Holy cow you're right. LOL. Somehow I got in my head when I first got the rifle it was a 1953 rifle. I'm not sure where that comes from now. (But you're right, the year isn't on the receiver.)
 
The Alaskan said:
Holy cow you're right. LOL. Somehow I got in my head when I first got the rifle it was a 1953 rifle. I'm not sure where that comes from now. (But you're right, the year isn't on the receiver.)
Click to expand...
If you want to know when the rifle was manufactured post the serial number. That will get us to the year of manufacture and the serial number is only found on the receiver. The numbers on parts such as the bolt, trigger housing and other parts are drawing numbers. The year of the barrel manufacture may be found by pulling the op-rod back and looking at the side of the barrel:

BBL4.png

Winchester barrels were marked on the top of the barrel and you would need to remove the rear hand guard:

BBL3.png

Ron
 
Holy &*^%^% CRAP!

SO, before I read your post, you got me to thinking, so I hit the internet and found about 4 websites that do s/n and mfg dates for Garands and looked mine up...

It's February 1945, so, while I suspect it never saw service, it is "technically" a WWII gun.

D*&^&* I wish I had known that 2 years ago. The historical museum down in Juneau was looking for a Garand to put in a display about Alaskain the Second World War. I offered to loan mine, but they wanted one with a WWII provenance. When I told them "1953," they passed.

I wonder if this went to Korea or not. Stock is cosmetically darn near pristine. (Aside form that whole being loose thing.)

Edit: PS: Barrel is May 1956. Has an "AY" and a "P" stamped in it as well. Can't tell the manufacture.

Thanks for the info!
 
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