Still not too happy with trigger pull on my Pietta 1858 Remington, it has a lot of travel. What's the cure for this?
Lot of travel on trigger Pietta 1858 Remington
- Thread starter Idaho shooter
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OP
OP
Right before they break, trigger springs get ''mushy''. I have found that Wolf springs for the SAA can be made to work, by bending the ends a little straighter, or you can just get the right one from VTI Gunparts....
http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=67&cat=Pietta+1858+Remington,+Tiro
http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=67&cat=Pietta+1858+Remington,+Tiro
Sometimes a simple question may require an elaborate answer, and on the weekends some of our most qualified-to-answer members are out shooting.
Shame on them!
Anyway, given time you will get some answers.
45 Dragoon
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Assuming nothing's broken/worn, the sear engagement needs to be adjusted (probably).
The response to your question is limited because triggers are more a personal thing / the condition of the parts. Is it new or could it have past "fixes"?
A spring change could make a difference if it makes you over power the trigger enough to mask the travel. More than likely it needs to be adjusted. Is the engagement pos., neg. or neutral? That may need to be addressed before final # setting.
Don't mean to be so vague but it's almost an "I need a car, what kind should I get" question.
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
The response to your question is limited because triggers are more a personal thing / the condition of the parts. Is it new or could it have past "fixes"?
A spring change could make a difference if it makes you over power the trigger enough to mask the travel. More than likely it needs to be adjusted. Is the engagement pos., neg. or neutral? That may need to be addressed before final # setting.
Don't mean to be so vague but it's almost an "I need a car, what kind should I get" question.
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Last edited:
noelf2
Member
I had excessive trigger travel with a Pietta 1858. What I did was stone the sear notch carefully to smooth it, and I also took a bit of the notch down so the trigger sear would break sooner. YOU HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU DO THAT !!! If you make an error, you can render the gun dangerous (hammer falling without trigger pull, etc.). It took me hours stoning a little at a time, making sure I didn't change the angle of the sear notch. Trial and error, putting the gun back together and apart a dozen times until it was just right, and still safe. If you haven't done this before, and you just can't live with it as-is, I recommend you take it to a gunsmith that has experience working on single action revolvers.
Mike OTDP
Member
The other straightforward fix would be to solder or even glue a shim in to reduce the depth of the full-cock notch. However, a trip to a good gunsmith, if you can find one, is well worth it.
DD4lifeusmc
Member
common.
two things get use to it or install a set screw stop.
Replacement spring only lightens the pull needed.
set screw you drill and tap a small hole in the back of the trigger guard.
turn the screw in to touch the back of the trigger just after the action breaks.
set too tight, the action won't break and the sear engagement notches will wear off.
Been shooting mine stock for over 35 yr, doesn't bother me a bit.
two things get use to it or install a set screw stop.
Replacement spring only lightens the pull needed.
set screw you drill and tap a small hole in the back of the trigger guard.
turn the screw in to touch the back of the trigger just after the action breaks.
set too tight, the action won't break and the sear engagement notches will wear off.
Been shooting mine stock for over 35 yr, doesn't bother me a bit.
noelf2
Member
DD4lifeusmc the way I understand the op's post, he has excessive travel before the break. What you describe, if I'm understanding, will only stop travel "after" the break. Am I wrong?
45 Dragoon
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BCRider
Member
On a single action "lots of throw" sort of implies a lot of creep due to a generous sear to hammer hook engagement. If I/we are wrong on this and you have a lot of travel after the break then there are a few things that could be done to reduce the after play. All of them require some metal working of one sort or another to be done.
If the issue is a long creep before the break then that's another ball of wax. And before you even THINK of it do NOT just Dremel or stone down the hammer hook. If you do then you'll run into issues of the trigger sear bouncing off or digging into the half cock notch. And that's not good.
If the issue is a long creep before the break then that's another ball of wax. And before you even THINK of it do NOT just Dremel or stone down the hammer hook. If you do then you'll run into issues of the trigger sear bouncing off or digging into the half cock notch. And that's not good.
noelf2
Member
Yep, that is a potential outcome. It can break the half cock notch off, mess up the sear, etc. Didn't happen to mine, but I was very careful to NOT over do it. Mike OTDP's fix is even better if there is a lot of excessive trigger travel before the break, and if there are concerns that the half cock notch will catch the sear.
Erwan
Member
If you want to limit the backlash you can do it with a screw in the trigger guard (it's the simplest) and if you want to limit the length of sliding before the escapement of the trigger you must work gently with India or/and Arkansas stone on the front of the starting notch: never modify the angle by touching inside the notch...
Don't forget that this is also hardened by carburizing...
This is what I do except for backlash: there I do nothing and it's always good enough...
Don't forget that this is also hardened by carburizing...
This is what I do except for backlash: there I do nothing and it's always good enough...
On most cap & ball revolvers they're two notches on the hammer face.
The trigger engages the first one to position the hammer to hold the bolt down so that the cylinder can be revolved during the loading process.
The second one holds the hammer at full-cock until the trigger is pulled and releases it.
If you reduce the depth of the full-cock notch it is likely that some time later the tip of the trigger will be captured by the rotating hammer's half-cock notch.
The result is a broken trigger and sometimes at chipped half-cock notch.
They're various ways to improve the trigger pull, but the job is done best by an experienced 'smith who knows what he's doing, and the right way to do it.
Reducing the depth of the full-cock notch may improve the pull, but it is not a good way to go about it. Especially if you have also installed a backlash stop screw or pin.
The trigger engages the first one to position the hammer to hold the bolt down so that the cylinder can be revolved during the loading process.
The second one holds the hammer at full-cock until the trigger is pulled and releases it.
If you reduce the depth of the full-cock notch it is likely that some time later the tip of the trigger will be captured by the rotating hammer's half-cock notch.
The result is a broken trigger and sometimes at chipped half-cock notch.
They're various ways to improve the trigger pull, but the job is done best by an experienced 'smith who knows what he's doing, and the right way to do it.
Reducing the depth of the full-cock notch may improve the pull, but it is not a good way to go about it. Especially if you have also installed a backlash stop screw or pin.
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