Lubing, or just oil on Garand trigger group?

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The main friction areas of the Garand just received B. Casey Gun Grease.

Although this rifle was acquired from the CMP in '09 and used only a few times, during this second reassembly it might be best to use some sort of grease on the trigger group in addition to Hilco Lube (used by the DoD), which seems similar to Breakfree.
 
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In the WWII era. the Army issued Lubriplate for use on both the receiver rails and the trigger group. Any good gun grease should work fine. Oil is OK also, but most oils can dry up or run off if the rifle is stored.

Jim
 
Oil was issued in the cleaning kit to be used in the trigger group and other light friction points.

White Grease was also included in the cleaning kit to use on the bolt lugs, op rod cam, cocking surfaces on the hammer, and parts of the cartridge gets the highest friction loads.

So, grease & oil?
Never the twain shale meet.

Don't grease the trigger group, except the trigger guard cams that lock into the receiver when you assemble it.

Don't oil the bolt lugs & op rod cam.
Use the grease on them.

Or better yet?
Follow these instructions to the letter.

http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/assemblyhtml/reassemblefeed2.html

rc
 
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Thanks. Just discovered "Garand Gear" also. Always interesting to read you guys' recommendations. A Garand forum also has multiple comments about never putting grease on the sear/hammer engagement area. This has reportedly caused slam fires.

Both PlastiLube and Lubriplate must be a far bit better than Birch. Casey?
 
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Dont overthink which grease to use. Any quality grease is more than overkill for a semi auto rifle.
As far as lubricating the trigger group
Oil the pins, grease behind the safety, on top of hammer, where hammer rubs the housing, on end of hammer spring plunger and on the trigger guard lugs
 
Something many National Match shooters and M1 and M14 rifle builders discovered is that you can greatly reduce galling and breaking of trigger and hammer pins by using grease on them instead of oil.
 
How could a Garand trigger or hammer pin gall?? Sorry but I'm calling bunk on that one
 
When the lubricant dries out or gets squeezed out, the pins can start to exhibit something very much like galling and usually presents as a bent or broken trigger pin.

Call bunk all you want I've SEEN IT and have talked to nationally known M1 and M14 rifle builders who've seen the same thing.

This is not something guaranteed to happen if you don't use grease, but it IS something that is known to happen.
 
Many years back I didnt know any better and never even oiled the pins. Never had one broken or galled pin in thousands of rds. If they didnt gall without oil the sure arent going to with oil
 
Right Lube For The Right Place

Back around 1999, I got a service grade Garand from the CMP that I took down, cleaned, oiled, greased (Tetra) and spit shined, then promptly had doubling on the first outing. I'm not new to M1s, and M14s, and I'm naturally thinking broken/out of spec part. Called the guys at CMP and after some discussion, they diagnosed the problem: grease on the hammer hooks and trigger. Tore it down, cleaned/degreased them, put light oil (Rem Oil) on it LIGHTLY, and no more issues. I took down 12 M1s/M14s and did the same. I always thought the M14 doubles (from light fingers, on sandbags) were kind of fun, but range officers typically frowned at the practice...
:cool:
 
So gun grease is now an illegal machine gun conversion? :confused: (I kid, I kid...:D)

TCB
 
No grease oil only as explained to me by an armorer when I was at CMP South Store
Sales Counter. Use white grease on friction points if your going into a battle and are
going to shoot a thousand rounds and may be a few weeks cleaning it. For target
shooting clean and oil all friction points if you fire three hundred or five rounds.
I have done this with my first CMP Garand and have had no wear and one hundred
percent function.
 
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