Lubricating a j frame without removing side plate

[GeoDudeFlorida]

In my experience, the better analogy would be using Allen wrenches to remove Torx screws.

I've damaged screw heads with un-modified, but "properly sized" craftsman screwdrivers.

I've also modified screwdrivers with grinders and files to fit screw heads properly, with great success.

One thing is for sure, it was worth my money to get an inexpensive gun screwdriver set with replaceable bits.

I hate following behind other people's work that have damaged screw heads, and now I have to figure out how to get that screw out. Adds money and time on a repair job at work. Which the boss likes the money, but frustrates me greatly.

Learning how to repair screws was one of the more useful parts of my education as a machinist. It's tedious but if you do it right, even the worst buggered up screw can be made to look and act like the screw's never seen a blade before. Peening the top flats back into shape is the most tedious part. I use a 4oz. brass mallet and a hard steel punch set that goes all the way from a 1/2" flat down to a 1/8" radius ball. To do it right, get a variety of jeweler's files - thicknesses of flat-smooth file from paper-thin up to 1/4" - leave the lathe bastard in the drawer, please; and no half-rounds! Cold blue, torch blue, blackening, oil smudge... finish depends on what looks good or is right for factory finish.

 

[SteadyD]

S&W fixed my 1980 66-2 a few months ago; parts are around for J frames

Do they still have titanium cylinders for 32 magnum laying around? I’m not trying to be difficult, but I’m not risking damaging this gun. They are very expensive these days and it wasn’t a great seller back when they did make them. This one is in nice shape and I don’t want to damage it unnecessarily.

 

[George P]

A simple call to the can answer that question

 

[chickasaw_hunter]

Those screwdrivers that used to come with your new S&W in the box were for adjusting the sights, not for removing the sideplate screws.
I guess the advantage to being old is remembering important stuff like that. They are fairly soft metal screwdrivers and can easily get buggered up by using them on the sideplate along with buggering up the sideplate and/or screws. I know what I'm talking about here done it.
They are in the box only for the purpose of adjusting the sights.

 

[George P]

But yet, they fit the sideplate screws perfectly

 

[Carl N. Brown]

But yet, they fit the sideplate screws perfectly

A temptation I would resist.

I have had to remove a genuine S&W side plate once because it was an inherited gun unused for years and the cheap oil in the action had turned to varnish. I managed not to bugger the screws but have seen examples of how easy it is to do it and don't wanna be the one who did it.

 

[George P]

I have used that one screwdriver on every S&W from a 1920's I frame through a modern 642 and everything in between - no issues; but then I do not manhandle them either. A nice slow downward pressure while turning keeps the driver in the slot. Any good hollow point "turnscrew" (as the Brits like to call them) that fits the slots will do. What won't do is your basic Craftsman designed for wedge-shaped slots

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I have used that one screwdriver on every S&W from a 1920's I frame through a modern 642 and everything in between - no issues; but then I do not manhandle them either. A nice slow downward pressure while turning keeps the driver in the slot. Any good hollow point "turnscrew" (as the Brits like to call them) that fits the slots will do. What won't do is your basic Craftsman designed for wedge-shaped slots

I keep a couple of those in my miscellaneous tools bin in the cleaning kit. They're nice for small jobs but a really stuck screw needs a hollow-ground driver with a better handle and more bite. Buggered screws are a fact of life - kind of like chatty sales people, occasional diarrhea and flat tires.

 

[Walkalong]

Even if you don’t bugger up the screws, if you don’t pop the side plate off correctly, you’ll bugger it up.

Not hard, but if you have never done it, and don’t research it……….

 

[George P]

Even if you don’t bugger up the screws, if you don’t pop the side plate off correctly, you’ll bugger it up.

Not hard, but if you have never done it, and don’t research it……….

Yep - put the crowbar DOWN!

 

[ontarget]

Yep - put the crowbar DOWN!

I usually head straight for the claw hammer myself.

 

[38riverrat]

I think it's important to have the correct screwdrivers for your revolver, even if you don't remove the side plate. It's good to check for tightness of the screws from time to time. I once had a cylinder release fall off of my S&W revolver. I found the release thumb piece, but not the screw. Had to order one. After a range trip, I clean my revolvers and check the screws for tightness. Also a good time to check the frame for stress cracks. Use good light and a magnifier if necessary. Then my revolver is ready for carry duty.
I do remove my side plate when new, and about every 5 years there after. I use Boeshield. Comes in drip or spray. I use the drip, but if not removing the side plate, I would use the spray can. The carrier evaporites, leaving what looks like a fine grease. This lube has excellent anti corrosion properties. I like to put some lube on the bottom of an Aluminum soda can to see what it looks like after any carrier has evaporated. The dished bottom of the cans makes a nice Petri dish.

Best,
Rick

 

[.38 Special]

I am fortunate to have Alan Tanaka, who is a top S&W revolver specialist, less than an hour's drive away. He is another who advises against too much lubrication. His general recommendation to me was to remove the sideplate once a year, blast out the lockwork with brake cleaner or similar, and then lube by placing a single drop of light oil on each pin and blowing it through the works with compressed air.

With regard to screwdrivers, I agree that buying a proper tool is not difficult or expensive and is a very good idea. It also is no great trick to buy a Home Depot quality driver and then adjust it with a flat file until it fits perfectly. That is what I usually do, though I complicate things by not marking the screwdriver for its corresponding screw. I probably have half a dozen such tools suited for S&W side plate screws, but probably will make another one the next time I need to lube a revolver!