Lyman primer system

[2rott]

I have an older Lyman T-Mag turret press with the Lyman auto prime system. I've used the primer a few times & have found it to have a lot of hiccups that slow it down. Anyone else here use this primer system successfully? Are there other systems I can incorporate into the press that wouldn't slow me down as much? I've used a hand primer, but would rather not have to take the case off the shell plate. I think it's quicker to prime on the way down from belling the case. I'm new to reloading & have found help here for other beginner problems. Thanks.

 

[animator]

It really depends on how it's set up. If you get the primer tube holder misaligned, even in the slightest, it will not work the way it should. My experience has been that it will either not feed at all, or will spit out two primers. It's frustrating when it's not set up how it likes...

I've found that once I get it aligned, I use my thumb to keep the primer holder from springing back forcefully into the primer tube holder. This seems to keep the holder from working itself loose over time.

Everything also has to be very tight. Any loose or slop in the primer holder will cause primer feed issues.


I still have not figured out how to keep it from spitting out the last primer. Does it every time, regardless of the primer, and regardless of how I have it set up.

I like how you have the option to deprime, resize, and reprime with one pull of the handle, but I always deprime/resize, and then prime in a separate action. This is due to the primer feeder occasionally spitting out a primer, and I got tired of sifting through spent primers trying to find the good ones that had been dropped into the catch pan.

 

[rfwobbly]

The Lyman in-press priming system is basically the same as several other press brands. It's as Animator said, absolute correct adjustment is required. Very small, fine adjustments may be needed to get it "humming". What I generally find is that people understand how it works and install it correctly, but fail to follow up with the fine adjustments. They simply can't fathom that a 1 degree angle change or a .010" movement could change anything. And therein lies the issue with "completely adjustable" in the age of "push the button and if it doesn't work return it". This system was introduced in a time when most everyone adjusted their own valves on the car and motorcycle. These days no one even owns a "feeler gauge" much less knows what one is.

So the bottom line is: play with different arm adjustments until it starts to work, then leave it in the press and don't remove it. Running a bore patch through the primer tubes really helps.

 

[2rott]

Thanks guys. It's not that it didn't work properly, but would hang up for different reasons after a few or 10-20 primers. I would clear it or readjust & it worked for a few & it would happen again. But you're right, I'll spend more time to make it go. I'll get out the old feeler gauge. Thanks.

 

[rfwobbly]

Thanks guys. It's not that it didn't work properly, but would hang up for different reasons after a few or 10-20 primers.

Dillon primer feeds use a plastic rod (#13707) as a dead weight to help push the column of primers downward. This really helps when the count gets low and generally helps all around feeding. Obviously you don't need the exact Dillon part to work, but whatever you put in there needs to be electrically non-conductive, and static neutral probably helps too. Try something along those lines and see if things improve.

All the best!