M14 things to look for.
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TexasRifleman
Moderator Emeritus
What kind?
A real one? Fulton? Springfield?
Too many variations to tell without more info.
A real one? Fulton? Springfield?
Too many variations to tell without more info.
30Cal
Member
For a standard grade SA Inc M1A, you can probably get a nice one for about $1000 if you look around. I've seen a couple used LRB's, but people are asking $2000-2500 for a standard grade (trying to recoup the cost of all the parts they put on it I guess). I don't know if they're selling though.
Ty
Ty
I don't know the maker as of yet. I hav known the seller for years, and he has been looking to unload it for a while. I was wondering if there were any general things to look for in any M14. Oh well, My collection slowly grows complete.
possum
Member
i am willing to bet that he is using the generic term, not everyone knows the differences in the m14 and the civilian m1a's. I am sure he is talking about an m1a, or varient, not the select fire m14's.
Gator
Member
Sort of.......
USGI M14s all had forged receivers and were all capable of full-auto fire, however most did not have the selector lever installed. The receivers of the semi-auto copies, with the exception of LRB and a very few from Smith Ent. are cast and will not accept the full-auto parts. The closest you can get to a USGI M14 is an LRB receiver with the balance of the parts being USGI surplus.
1911_Mitch
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- Jun 20, 2005
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- 80
New production Springfield rack grades go from anywhere between 1100- 1700 depending on the model. Check gunbroker for comparisons before you buy.
Older models sometimes go for less, sometimes more, depending upon the condition. Check M14forum.com and there is a dedicated subforum for researching value. If you get the serial number, you can sometimes learn alot about the rifle. Also estimate number of rounds fired.
The early models are generally composed more of USGI parts but you want to make sure the barrel wear is ok. Even if you don't have gauges, at least take a flashlight down the bore and check for throat erosion or chrome flaking and the muzzle erosion.
Look how much wear on the bolt, op rod, op rod channel, etc. Check the bolt face for pitting/wear, and check the firing pin for roundness/wear Tilt the rifle back and forth a few times and listen for the piston to move about the gas cylinder.
Check for manufacture of parts (bolt, op rod, trigger group). Pull the trigger group if you can. Check the trigger housing splines for peening or any other mods.
Check the op rod spring guide, especially the mag catch portion for wear or damage. Check the front sight for alighnment. It may be off a bit in the dovetail, but as long is it is not overhaning it is fine/cosmetic. Check the rear sight - standard or National Match/peep. Hows the stock? Wood - walnut, birch, other, fiberglass? bedded? Lots more but my fingers are tired.
Good luck
Older models sometimes go for less, sometimes more, depending upon the condition. Check M14forum.com and there is a dedicated subforum for researching value. If you get the serial number, you can sometimes learn alot about the rifle. Also estimate number of rounds fired.
The early models are generally composed more of USGI parts but you want to make sure the barrel wear is ok. Even if you don't have gauges, at least take a flashlight down the bore and check for throat erosion or chrome flaking and the muzzle erosion.
Look how much wear on the bolt, op rod, op rod channel, etc. Check the bolt face for pitting/wear, and check the firing pin for roundness/wear Tilt the rifle back and forth a few times and listen for the piston to move about the gas cylinder.
Check for manufacture of parts (bolt, op rod, trigger group). Pull the trigger group if you can. Check the trigger housing splines for peening or any other mods.
Check the op rod spring guide, especially the mag catch portion for wear or damage. Check the front sight for alighnment. It may be off a bit in the dovetail, but as long is it is not overhaning it is fine/cosmetic. Check the rear sight - standard or National Match/peep. Hows the stock? Wood - walnut, birch, other, fiberglass? bedded? Lots more but my fingers are tired.
Good luck
Dr. Dickie
Member
1911_Mitch covered it, but let me add: If he isn't asking too much, GET IT.
You won't regret it. The M1A is fine rifle, ever so slightly second to the M1 Garand (got to give its Dad the props--plus my Garands WERE there.)
You won't regret it. The M1A is fine rifle, ever so slightly second to the M1 Garand (got to give its Dad the props--plus my Garands WERE there.)
loadedround
Member
I saved up to purchase a NM Springfield Armory M1A and have been more than happy with it. Having said that, all my friends and shooting buddies from our CMP matches had advised me to stay away from the Norinco Chinese M1A's because of the soft steel used in their receivers causing extremly fast wear plus possible cracking of the receiver. Norinco is no longer imported into this country, but a lot of used ones are still floating around. Btw, it's the same story on Norinco 1911's...soft steel in their receivers.
To add a little more on things to look for:
First, if it's a Fed Ord, avoid it. There are a few low-grade diamonds in the rough, but most are rough. Either worn GI parts of Chinese parts that aren't compatible with Gi. I can't comment on Armscorp, Smith, etc.
If it's a Polytech, you can send it out and put another $600 or more into it for a shooter. I'm not sure if the same applies to Norincos. I personally would avoid both.
For a Springfield Armory Inc., the more GI parts the better. If it's been made in the last 10 years or so, it probably has a commercial barrel and other parts may be mostly GI. A stainless barrel is good but it won't be GI.
If it has been shot a good bit (but you imply it hasn't), check the gas piston for pitting. Also, if you remove the action from the stock, look at the barrel right around the gas piston for pitting.
Inspect the flash suppressor for cracks. There was one lot of bolts out there that is bad when Springfield tried to use castings, but they aren't too common. I'm sorry but I can't remember the lot number that would be on it.
Another good place to read up on them is jouster.com in the M1/M14 forums.
Find a good source for surplus ammo. Portuguese, South African, Argentina, and Radway Green are good. I avoid the "oriental" ammo such as India and Malaysia.
First, if it's a Fed Ord, avoid it. There are a few low-grade diamonds in the rough, but most are rough. Either worn GI parts of Chinese parts that aren't compatible with Gi. I can't comment on Armscorp, Smith, etc.
If it's a Polytech, you can send it out and put another $600 or more into it for a shooter. I'm not sure if the same applies to Norincos. I personally would avoid both.
For a Springfield Armory Inc., the more GI parts the better. If it's been made in the last 10 years or so, it probably has a commercial barrel and other parts may be mostly GI. A stainless barrel is good but it won't be GI.
If it has been shot a good bit (but you imply it hasn't), check the gas piston for pitting. Also, if you remove the action from the stock, look at the barrel right around the gas piston for pitting.
Inspect the flash suppressor for cracks. There was one lot of bolts out there that is bad when Springfield tried to use castings, but they aren't too common. I'm sorry but I can't remember the lot number that would be on it.
Another good place to read up on them is jouster.com in the M1/M14 forums.
Find a good source for surplus ammo. Portuguese, South African, Argentina, and Radway Green are good. I avoid the "oriental" ammo such as India and Malaysia.
Bwana John
Member
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- Sep 10, 2004
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Yes, there are NFA transferable M-14s available in the US, but I dont think many of us could afford them.
There are also rifle team National Match, semi-only, real M-14s that can be possesed legally.
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