M1A Gas Cylinder

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I would leave the gas cylinder on unless you are replacing it. If you must, it's pressed on so tap it a bit harder. If it is really on there you can use penetrating oil and some heat.
 
Leave it on, and leave the flash hider alone too. You wouldn't unscrew the barrel for cleaning, so somethings are better left alone.
 
Thanks lipadj and Dave. I have let it soak in Kroil for ~ 30 min so far and still no movement. I assumed it would slip off just like a garand. I am liking your suggestions of leaving it on. I hate taking hammers to rifles. I already got the flash suppressor off, but I wont make it a habit of removing it in the future.
 
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Yeah honestly it's better left alone unless you really want to do a near complete disassemble just to say you can. Heating it up with a heat gun then tapping it off would probably do it though a real M14 smith may have a better way.
 
Axil Grease mostly, but I also have old "stainless steel" firearm grease (no idea why it is for stainless steel) that has been around for years I use too.
 
Thank again lipadj. I have been using tetra grease and am not very pleased with it, so I am looking to switch. When it gets hot, the tetra flings all over the place and it started to turn green inside the action.
 
Not sure if this is what you're intending, but don't be greasing the gas cylinder or piston.
 
Not sure if this is what you're intending, but don't be greasing the gas cylinder or piston.
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I was not going to. The grease question was for the receiver/bolt/op rod. I just planed to oil the gas system with eezox, wipe dry, then dry with compressed air.
 
Thank again lipadj. I have been using tetra grease and am not very pleased with it, so I am looking to switch. When it gets hot, the tetra flings all over the place and it started to turn green inside the action.
Click to expand...

Greases do lose their viscosity when hot but modern synthetic (and even the regular) Automotive lubricants are hard to beat just think of the environments and temps they have to endure in a car part or engine part. I look at the cost of specialty firearm greases and laugh especially when you compare the price per pound to what you pay for auto lubes. No one will ever convince me that you get what you pay for as far as the super expensive greases in a syringe go.
 
I clean my gas plug/piston every time I shoot it. All of it. Its easier for me to just check to be sure its tight when shooting than to have to fight to get it off when its stuck. Also keep a light coat of Break Free on the piston. Makes it easier to clean after shooting it. Army taught us to do that in '69, worked for me then, still works now. Have never had a problem with it. As far as tips, clean it after every time and it won't get stuck. I use automotive axle grease for the other parts.
 
Thanks for all of the info. I stopped attempting to get the gas cylinder off and just cleaned, lubed, and re-assembled.

Now for the bone head part. I failed to mention that this was a NM rifle and I was just reading another of the M1A threads and saw that NM and SM rifle have the gas cylinder unitized (welded) to the barrel. If this is true, did I do any damage by trying to remove it with firm taps with one of these?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00938298000P?keyword=rubber+hammer

It doesnt look bent and it seems like a pretty robust part....
 
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