M1A Grease

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wizard1911

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I just picked up my new M1A. None of the greases recommended (lubriplate. plastilube, TW25)are available in my area. The only thing I have found is Pro-Gold. Has anyone used this on an M1A or anything else?
 
Tetra Gun Grease, Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, just about any good heavy grease will work fine till you can order some grease like Lubriplate or similar. You just want a good grease that stays where you put it. Does your area have any gun stores or good sporting goods stores like Cabela's, Gander Mountain, Bass Pro Shops or anything like that?

Ron
 
The truth is most any good grade heat and water resistant grease will work just fine.
A lot of Match shooters just go to Walmart or a hardware or farm store and buy a can of Lithium grease.
The USGI grease for the M1 was a brand name of Lithium called Lubriplate 130.

If you must have the original, Brownell's and Midway sell it, but are out of stock for the moment.
 
I've tried all kinds of greases and am back to using good old rifle grease USGI.
This is the later brown stuff that replaced the creamy white lubriplate grease years ago.
AFAIK it is STILL being used in Military circles.
I have four cans dated back to the 1980s and that amount will last my lifetime and probably my kids as well.

It can still be found at gun shows and surplus stores.
 
Lots of greases will give excellent service.

I've been using a synthetic grease tractor for my Garands and M1As. Mobil 1 synthetic grease would be an alternate.

I have found with petroleum based greases, the lubricant evaporates over time, 6 months or more, leaving the pasty clay stuff behind. The synthetics do not seem to do this, or at least as quickly.

Not a problem if you shoot your rifle frequently, but, if not, you have to clean and re-lubricate the rifle before using.

I've also used Lubriplate 130-AA. Besides firearm uses, it is also used in industry and aircrafts providing alternate sources.

When my tube of synthetic tractor grease runs out, I'll be switching to AeroShell 33MS synthetic Molybdenum Disulfide grease.

A 14 oz tube of grease lasts a long time in firearm use.
 
A querry regarding the M1A and greasing the roller on the bolt-ear;
I know there is a tool that is sold to apply the grease, but is it necessary to use it? Is it important to take down the action to grease it, I should think (perhaps I'm "not" thinking??) that working a bit of grease into the roller runway and working the action several times would be sufficient.
Am I wrong on this?
 
Grease is grease except in cold weather. Then it's cement.
In cold weather you can either spend a pile of money on cold weather grease or a wee bit of money for a tube of powdered graphite.
 
...working a bit of grease into the roller runway and
working the action several times would be sufficient.
+1
And if you also use a bit on your finger tip and just "press" it into the side of the roller --
which is how mechanics have loaded exposed-ball bearing since CWAC (a really long time;)),
you are Good2Go.
 
I think my buddy told me the old roller greasing technique that he likes is a fired .45 auto or .40 case, (sorry, cant remember for sure which one) cleaned out up in his vibe polisher. A big dab of lubriplate in it, press the roller into it, pushes the grease through the roller....
 
A sort of religion has built up around rifle grease, by people who do not understand why it came to be. It was meant to be used in hot-wet environments because it was harder to wash off than oil.

Mil G 46003 Rifle Grease


6. NOTES ; 6.1 Intended use. -The grease covered by this specification is intended for use in the lubrication of rifles and other small arms only when such weapons are used under conditions of sustained rain. The temperature range under which this grease will be -used is 2OC (35F) to 38C (100 F) . This grease is not intended as a replacement for conventional oils under conditions other than sustained rain.


The physical characteristics of GI Rifle grease were spec'd out to be a NLGI type 3 grease. Basically the Army tested greases in hot, wet environments, lubriplate 130 worked, and they used its physical characteristics in future procurements. Without calling for lubriplate by name. You can find pictures of guys dressed up in raincoats holding a rifle. A huge hose pumping warm water was sprayed on the shooter, the rifle was fired until it seized up. What a miserable job!

Still, it was better than being a helmet tester!

Helmet%20testing_zpsbqrywtbb.jpg

My opinion, modern grease technology is better than what was around in WW2 and the lubrication requirements of the M1a are not that severe. If you like grease, than a good waterproof grease, like the tubes of outboard motor grease found in big box stores will work, Lubriplate 130 or equivalent, or use the more expensive stuff. They are all good, just keep the thing lubricated. I use grease in hot weather and LSA or motor oil in cold weather. In extreme cold, the rifle is to be wiped dry of all lubricants.
 
Lubriplate is easily obtained from Midway. I use it on all recommended grease points. Remember that, in lubricating guns, less is more so only use enough grease to make a light, wet sheen on the part being greased. This is easily accomplished with a Q-tip. Similarly, use oil or CLP sparingly and never in the gas chamber or on the hammer hooks.

Harry
 
Driftertank has the correct greasing technique for the M1A or M14.

You can buy a grease tool or just make one by cutting a .45ACP case off.
Leave the primer in but clean the case out inside by soaking in a solvent to remove all residue.

Cut the case of fto about a 1/2 inch length. Pack the case full of grease and press it firmly over the bolt roller.
The pressure will force fresh grease into the roller while forcing dirty grease out the other side.

This is the most effective way to get grease actually into the roller bearing where it needs to be.
 
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