8strings8rounds
Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2020
- Messages
- 32
I have scoured the internet. Forums and threads everywhere. Apart from some detailed graphic representations, I have found very little information on exactly how the parts involved in locking these pistols need to interact with each other to function properly.
Now, I do understand the basics of how these pistols are supposed to function, but I have run into an issue involving a new barrel that, while I think I have figured out how to address it, I'm hoping for some insight or an educated opinion before moving forward.
Quick backstory- brand new Beretta M9A3.
I bought it last year, special green color at a really good price (thanks Bud's price match) and while I love the look and feel of it, it's the least accurate/repeatable gun in my collection, and that bugs me. I don't sell guns, typically. I usually try to address whatever irks me about them, first..
Fast forward to a month ago. I get an EFK Firedragon, stainless barrel to fit to the gun. First, I wanted to address the accuracy, at least some. Second, I think a stainless barrel looks great on here.
I hand stoned the sides of the barrel rails until the barrel fit smoothly into my frame. I installed the locking block and reassembled to find that the block lugs do not lock tightly into the slide as they should. Allowing the barrel to wiggle up and down at the muzzle as if there were no locking block at all.
Studying the action, and with the help of some Dykem, I have determined the locking block is contacting the bottom of the new barrel before the lugs fully seat into the slide. Though I haven't measured yet, it's looking like the belly of the EFK barrel is just ever so slightly bigger than the stock barrel.
My plan is to remove a hair off the top of the block where it contacts the barrel, and give it the clearance to engage the lugs- I would rather slightly alter the cheaply replaceable block than the barrel.
Has anyone had to do anything like this? Or does it at least sound like I'm going in the right direction?
To be clear, it does the exact same thing with two different blocks.
I would attempt to get a picture of the space in the lug, but we're talking .001-.002" max.
Thanks
Now, I do understand the basics of how these pistols are supposed to function, but I have run into an issue involving a new barrel that, while I think I have figured out how to address it, I'm hoping for some insight or an educated opinion before moving forward.
Quick backstory- brand new Beretta M9A3.
I bought it last year, special green color at a really good price (thanks Bud's price match) and while I love the look and feel of it, it's the least accurate/repeatable gun in my collection, and that bugs me. I don't sell guns, typically. I usually try to address whatever irks me about them, first..
Fast forward to a month ago. I get an EFK Firedragon, stainless barrel to fit to the gun. First, I wanted to address the accuracy, at least some. Second, I think a stainless barrel looks great on here.
I hand stoned the sides of the barrel rails until the barrel fit smoothly into my frame. I installed the locking block and reassembled to find that the block lugs do not lock tightly into the slide as they should. Allowing the barrel to wiggle up and down at the muzzle as if there were no locking block at all.
Studying the action, and with the help of some Dykem, I have determined the locking block is contacting the bottom of the new barrel before the lugs fully seat into the slide. Though I haven't measured yet, it's looking like the belly of the EFK barrel is just ever so slightly bigger than the stock barrel.
My plan is to remove a hair off the top of the block where it contacts the barrel, and give it the clearance to engage the lugs- I would rather slightly alter the cheaply replaceable block than the barrel.
Has anyone had to do anything like this? Or does it at least sound like I'm going in the right direction?
To be clear, it does the exact same thing with two different blocks.
I would attempt to get a picture of the space in the lug, but we're talking .001-.002" max.
Thanks
