Magma Engineering Master Caster?

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esheato

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Anyone have experience with the Magma Engineering Master Caster?

I lube-sized a few thousand .45 Auto bullets the other day using their Star unit and it's simple and easy. I won't even think about buying anything else...are their casting machines just as easy to operate?

Ed
 
I hope so. I picked one up last spring with a bunch of other used reload stuff and have not had time to try it. Looks like a super solid rig. Have both 357 and 44 moulds with it. Tried to get a 41 mould off eBay for it but was outbid. I too would like to hear if anybody has any tips??
 
Get that pot warmed up and give me some feedback! You're killing me here! :D

Ed
 
They are very simple to set up & use. Not fast as 3 or 4 multi-cavity moulds running at once, but fast enough with fan running. These machines make casting very easy on the body. Here's a couple pictures........enjoy.

40+lb+pots+hood.JPG


Master+Caster.JPG
 
In my quest to make my shooting better/faster, without spending too much money, I decided to give bullet casting a try. I knew from watching a friend cast fishing weights, I needed a new angle. After little research I came across Magma Engineering. The company sells a very high volume casting machine (19,000hr) and a slower one called the Master Caster they said would do 500-800an hr. So I looked at the pictures they had and dusted off my drafting scale. The machine is based on a cast aluminum frame (which I couldn’t make) and was manually operated (which I didn’t want), but it didn’t seem overly complicated. So I ordered a set of molds from them for 230grn LRN .45. I made a melting pot from 7” round pipe with 3/8” wall, it’ll hold just under 60# of lead (1750 bullets worth). Wrapped it with a new (a used one doesn’t like to bend) 3500-watt oven element I got from the Sears repair center ($9.47). I had a few Yokogawa PID controllers, so I used one of them for my thermostat. I hooked the controller to a 12v dc actuated 230v ac solid state relay. I was then melting wheel weights. I soon covered the element with .045 stainless steel to keep the heat in and off my face. Once I got the bullet mold ($65 & almost three months later) I built a frame out of 1”X1” .095 mild steel. I used double split set collars (2.25 ea.) to hold the oil lite bearings (1.14 ea.), for the main shaft (3/4” OD); this will provide easy maintenance in the future. The mold carriers were machined from 1” solid stock. I rolled ½” solid rod for the guide rods to hold the mold shut. Sections of 5/16 24tpi all thread were used on the sides for adjustment. I decided that sitting around pushing a lever (to let the lead flow), and pulling a handle (to throw the bullets out of the mold) might get in the way of some “quality time”. So I went through my stuff and came up with a gear reduced motor that ran at 4rpm. With two bullets in the mold this came out to 480 bullets an hour, about right. Then I hooked a solenoid to an arm that pulled a ¼ stainless steel rod from the bottom of the pot; a ¼ 20 bolt can be adjusted for the amount of flow. Under the pot I milled a slot that diverted the molten lead to the stainless steel orifice plate that has two holes in it the correct distance to hit the center of the mold holes. The solenoid is controlled by a home made timer (duration of flow) using a 555 integrated circuit (from Radio Shack). I can adjust the pour time from 0 to 10 seconds with 10 turns from a 0-1meg ohm potentiometer (1 sec a turn). This fine adjustment is needed for the sprue (part above the actual bullet/s) to fill properly without spilling over. A double pole single throw switch controls the whole process. When the actuating arm hits the switch, the timer, with a double pole double throw relay, stops the motor while simultaneously pouring lead. As soon as the timer stops the flow of lead the motor begins to drive the mold down, cutting the sprue then hitting two pieces of angle iron that split the mold apart, dropping the sprue into one divider and the bullets into another. Then the process begins again. I found a fan is needed to keep the mold cool enough for the 480 rnd an hour pace, in summer heat. I also added an extra timer for a cool down pause (1-30secs), after the mold opens, to further cool if needed for 350 + grn bullets. The last addition (not in photos) were two 12vdc solenoids to tap the mold carriers, to knock a bullet out if it happens to get stuck. It’s still not finished out, but you can see how it works.
After a few hours of playing with my new toy, I had quite a pile of bullets. They were though, a few thousands over .452. I looked at the sizers available and again they were slow or expensive. A trip to CDC surplus got me a 3” pneumatic ram with integral limit switches for $25. I machined a sizing die from stainless steel. Mounted it all to a piece of 3/8” plate steel. I used a double split set collar to hold the sizing die in place, this will allow for different calibers. I machined a piece of brass that threaded into the ram to drive the bullet through the die. I made a bullet carrier from UHMW to carry the unsized bullets from a feed tube to the mouth of the die. The carrier rides in an aluminum housing that has a momentary switch on the end. When the carrier goes in, far enough for the bullet to drop in the die, it hits the switch that drives the ram down to it’s limit then back up. After this process the bullets are perfect .452. I am still experimenting with different bullet lubes; however, I have been using a water based dry lube for forming steel that seems to work well (just dip and let dry).
One interesting thing, I can, by changing the alloy of the bullets, make anywhere from 210grn to 240grn bullets from the same mold. Cost per loaded round using free wheel weights, range brass and ba10 powder 1.8 cents a round.
 

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Mr. Morris let me be first to welcome you to the board. As for your machine: All I can say is you did

Good
 
Wow...I am completely impressed.

If I only knew how to make something like that.

Welcome to THR by the way.

Ed
 
Opinions Vary

There are, of course, two variations, the Magma unit and the Ballisti-Cast. If I were going to do this I'm not sure which I would pick. Both firms are EXCELLENT.

Still I've had friends who have bought these. Opinions varyied. My understanding is that they do not work well in some applications.

For REALLY large bullets, like those for a 50-70, fillout seems to be a problem. The fellow who was trying to use a Magma for this application certainly knew what he was doing but never could get it to work properly. Wrinkles, i.e. incomplete fillout. That implies that the unit could not get the alloy hot enough.

For convention sizes handgun bullets apparently they work very well.

I think the one drawback regardless of what you do with one is change over. Going from one bullet to another is suppose to take a real effort. Also bullet release can be a problem with some bullet designs.

If you do get one, I'd appreciate knowing which brand you bought, how well it worked for you and what bullets you used it on.

I've considered one of these but never did it. Looks like a large learning curve to me and a six-cavity Ballisti-Cast mould is pretty easy to use. To bad that really large gang moulds, like Ballisti-Cast/H&G 8-cavity and 10-cavity moulds and large 8-cavity SAECO's are a thing of the past.
 
Neat setups.

I can't afford neat stuff like that so I'll have to settle for a pair of Lee sixbangers and a lot of sweat equity to try to produce large numbers of .45 auto bullets.
 
I haven’t had the opportunity to look over a Magma machine to see if the orifice dimensions (plate/pot) and needle and seat I machined are the same, I would assume they are close. That being said, I have successfully cast 12ga slugs on mine (1oz). To change from .45 to 12ga requires 5 minutes IF the machine is fully cool, as the orifice plate must be changed (Stainless disk above mold 0566) from 2 holes (45) to one (12), it is held in with 2 screws. Next, the mold has to be changed, this requires the mold to be lowered enough to drive out the roll pins (0560 & 0562) holding the mold in the carrier arms. Place the other mold in the arms and drive the pins back in and, on a Magma, you should be done when you adjust the flow rate/temp (0569). On the machine I built, the flow duration (timer 1) and cooling pause (timer 2) need to be adjusted as well. The adjustments are not as large as you would think, and in the opposite direction, as your going from 2 230grn (460grn total) to one 1oz (437grn). When the machine first starts up I get the wrinkled bullets. Once the mold has time to heat up then they come out nice and shiny. As noted elsewhere, a fan may be needed to keep the mold cool enough when used at a high production rate. I use a small fan if I find myself unfortunate enough to be casting here in Texas during the summer; however, in the winter everything runs great w/out the fan.
I think it would be possible to out cast the smaller machines by hand (with the right mold), but I’m almost certain it wouldn’t be any easier. An added benefit of automation as you can size concurrently with casting (another machine) cutting the time spent, making a bullet, in half. Makes 2000 rounds ready to go after one evening.
 

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klw this may help.

There are, of course, two variations, the Magma unit and the Ballisti-Cast. If I were going to do this I'm not sure which I would pick. Both firms are EXCELLENT.

The Magma uses one mould the Ballisti-Cast two. The BC is about 600.00 more.

That implies that the unit could not get the alloy hot enough.

Please note heat is a problem with really heavy bullets. By heat I mean too much heat. Smaller, lighter bullet require more heat or at least a faster pace than larger, heavier bullets. Your friends problem was likely something else, if the pot's heat was enough for smaller bullet, it was certainly hot enough for larger bullets. IMHO

I think the one drawback regardless of what you do with one is change over. Going from one bullet to another is suppose to take a real effort.

The changing of the moulds is straight forward, knock out two pins, remove mould, replace the pins. If both moulds are of the same number of cavities it takes a couple minutes. If not the orfice plate must be changes. This takes me about 5 minutes on a hot pot.

I've considered one of these but never did it. Looks like a large learning curve to me and a six-cavity Ballisti-Cast mould is pretty easy to use.

I'm sure you could learn a Master Caster in minutes. If you can use multi-cavity moulds, the MC would be no problem. Still you can make bullets a lot faster with several moulds. The MC isn't real fast. With small bullets about 10 a minute is about the best you can do. With a standard weight 44 or 45 I can do 6 per minute at best, and with normally only 4.

The MC really shines for those with hand, wrist, arm, elbow, or shoulder problems. This machine makes casting body friendly.
 
Magmas

I cast on the Master caster and use the Star luber sizer. Lost track years ago, but have run a few tons of lead through it. You always make your own little inventions that make it work better then the way you buoght it.
Some guys take it to the limit looks like.
Good job. Looks good too.

Mine has never failed. Freind of mine has the big dog and man will the thing pump lead.
 
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