Make a custom suppressor
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Jim Watson
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MachIVshooter might would, or could point you in the right direction.
You have a superior design in mind?
You have a superior design in mind?
"Own style" can mean a lot of things. Is this an issue with form factor or size, or is this a totally unique design with custom baffles?
Demi-human
maybe likes firearms a little bit…
Made for you? Sure.
Warranted for performance and durability? Nope.
With all the manufacturers out there, is there really nothing that will work?
Now I’m curious. What are you thinking about?
Engraving? I’d like that for a nice, matching,1911.
Super long? Super short? Fat to match a handguard? Slim to copy a barrel?
A certain color?
What do they not make?
Warranted for performance and durability? Nope.
With all the manufacturers out there, is there really nothing that will work?
Now I’m curious. What are you thinking about?
Engraving? I’d like that for a nice, matching,1911.
Super long? Super short? Fat to match a handguard? Slim to copy a barrel?
A certain color?
What do they not make?
earlthegoat2
Member
Many of the suppressor manufacturers have dialed in the efficiencies of sound suppression already. Everything else is aesthetic.
I too am curious about your style.
I too am curious about your style.
Made for you? Sure.
Warranted for performance and durability? Nope.
With all the manufacturers out there, is there really nothing that will work?
Now I’m curious. What are you thinking about?
Engraving? I’d like that for a nice, matching,1911.
Super long? Super short? Fat to match a handguard? Slim to copy a barrel?
A certain color?
What do they not make?
A FULL AUTO rated can for a a Cobray M11 9mm that is able to be dismantled and cleaned while honoring the historic shape of a Mac can.
I have a gem tech viper that is full of carbon and crap and I think it's stupid that I can't clean it. I can pay some dude out west to open the can and make it accessible but I have trouble paying half the cost of the same can to have the features I want with a unknown life span left.
I don't care about weight and baffles made from tool steel excite me
Telekinesis
Member
It shouldn’t be hard to find a FA rated 9mm can. I’ve even seen some cans designed specifically for SMGs that have a large internal volume compared to normal pistol cans. It depends on just how faithfully you want to replicate the external dimensions of the original can though.
Honesty if you’re a machinist and already know your way around a lathe and a mill, it’ll be much easier for you to learn how to fill out a form 1 than it will be to convince a manufacturer to stop their normal work to build you a custom suppressor. It is very similar to what you filled out on the form 4 for your Mac 11.
That said, MachIVshooter might be able/willing, and you may want to check with Liberty Suppressors. I know they have taken on some custom work previously.
Honesty if you’re a machinist and already know your way around a lathe and a mill, it’ll be much easier for you to learn how to fill out a form 1 than it will be to convince a manufacturer to stop their normal work to build you a custom suppressor. It is very similar to what you filled out on the form 4 for your Mac 11.
That said, MachIVshooter might be able/willing, and you may want to check with Liberty Suppressors. I know they have taken on some custom work previously.
If it is a form factor issue, I would design the outside of the can in Fusion360. You can use Fusion360 with a non-commercial license, free. Then pass that .STEP file to someone who can legally CNC it, and put baffles of the right type in there. You are at least guaranteed to get the right form factor then. And you'll be able to dismantle it.
I think there is still meat on that bone. The question will be whether the OP can arrive at something better by chance or not (in terms of the baffle arrangement).
But... even if he can't improve the baffles, he can at least get a can made with the right form factor, threads etc. Let the SOT then select the baffles for it.
I think there is still meat on that bone. The question will be whether the OP can arrive at something better by chance or not (in terms of the baffle arrangement).
But... even if he can't improve the baffles, he can at least get a can made with the right form factor, threads etc. Let the SOT then select the baffles for it.
Demi-human
maybe likes firearms a little bit…
This, over and over.
It’s a form. If you’ve done one for your M-11, you can do nearly the same thing for your suppressor.
Yes, your hand can be held while you do it, it’s okay. I’ll do the holding if you need it.
The forms are, a little, daunting. They do have to be filled out a specific way so the agent will read the right word to approve it. But the correct language is right online. That’s how I did my first. Step by step, with the tutorial from one of the huge shops open on another page.
And you’ll have it easier upon the approval!
I am a carpenter. Wood is my gig. It was harder for me to do the metal work than the form, but you’ll have that easy. I had to make do with some rough ways, but you have a metal shop!
Don’t give up yet!
Think of the money you’ll save!
(That you can put towards ammunition…
)
jmorris
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Sounds a lot like this one I built.
I added this set collar style lock to mine so once it’s tight, it stays tight but does require a 5/32 Allen to remove it. I am more of a shooter than a take apart/put back together guy though.
There is an air gap between the knurled shield where there is a couple wraps of header insulation. If you don’t do something like that, it’s going to get hot almost instantly.
They want you to avoid the Form 1, why they made the hoops to jump through. Don’t let them win like that, it’s not like your going back to school to work on your PHD, it’s just a little paper work.
Not to mention you wouldn’t want to know what 1 of something custom costs these days but I am sure you could find an FFL/SOT machinist that would do it, once the pile of cash was large enough to not resist.
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THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I WANT
I wanted everything basically doubled in regards to internal volume.
I figured K style baffling would work the best as it seems to show up in many products.
How does your can sound firing regular ammo vs sub sonic?
I mainly shoot standard velocity 9mm and I figured a larger can would be more effective. I don't know anything about the science behind this opinion so it maybe flawed.
jmorris
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I’m not sure if I have ever fired supers, I always just use my “minor” loads, 147’s ~135pf/920fps. People seem to be pretty impressed with it but it is a huge can for 9mm.
I machined a 4140 blast baffle and used 7075 for the K’s.
I liked it enough I form 1’ed one like it, welded 16.125” without end cap, for a one stamp 9mm AR. It’s my go to carbine for stuff that doesn’t require much range.
I machined a 4140 blast baffle and used 7075 for the K’s.
I liked it enough I form 1’ed one like it, welded 16.125” without end cap, for a one stamp 9mm AR. It’s my go to carbine for stuff that doesn’t require much range.
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N555
Member
You have cone to the right place. Form1s are easy. I got drunk and submitted an eform1 for a molotov cocktail on a dare a few years ago and no, they didn't deny it.
As a machinist you have the ability to make a really cool custom $1,000+ silencer out of whatever materials you are a custom to working with. You should do it.
Do you want to do electronic or all paper?
The difference is electronic is a lot faster but the program they use is a pain in the neck, the electronic format makes no sense and is not really not user friendly. After you have done a few times you just get used to the awkward methods used.
Paper is a lot easier but it takes a lot longer.
The main thing that gets people form1s denied is the fingerprint cards. But they don't have to be perfect at all, or even close to perfect. I did one eform1 I knew had 2 finger print cards left that were done and ready to go. What I had forgotten was those were my reject cards, I should have checked the cards before submitted the eform1. Yeah they were messed up. One card I got out of sequence and put finger prints in the wrong blocks and then for the other hand I did the same finger print twice. And the second card had several badly smuged prints as it was the very first one I ever did. You have to send the finger prints off within a very narrow time window and there was no way I could get more finger print cards before that time window expired.
As a machinist you have the ability to make a really cool custom $1,000+ silencer out of whatever materials you are a custom to working with. You should do it.
Do you want to do electronic or all paper?
The difference is electronic is a lot faster but the program they use is a pain in the neck, the electronic format makes no sense and is not really not user friendly. After you have done a few times you just get used to the awkward methods used.
Paper is a lot easier but it takes a lot longer.
The main thing that gets people form1s denied is the fingerprint cards. But they don't have to be perfect at all, or even close to perfect. I did one eform1 I knew had 2 finger print cards left that were done and ready to go. What I had forgotten was those were my reject cards, I should have checked the cards before submitted the eform1. Yeah they were messed up. One card I got out of sequence and put finger prints in the wrong blocks and then for the other hand I did the same finger print twice. And the second card had several badly smuged prints as it was the very first one I ever did. You have to send the finger prints off within a very narrow time window and there was no way I could get more finger print cards before that time window expired.
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gotboostvr
Member
I want to party with this guy!
MachIVshooter
Member
They won't when they rust in place. 440C is the only tool steel I would make baffles from, but keep in mind that all of it's wonderful properties start to fade away above 500°F.
Stick to stainless, 17-4 or 15-5, or 422 if you can find it and have the means to heat treat it properly. 6Al-4V if you want titanium, perfectly suitable for a pistol caliber can.
These guys are right, Form 1 is the way to go if you have machines and skills. Yeah, I could build it, but a big thing like that wouldn't be cheap, and you'd be looking at 2-3 months at least. We're not even caught up on our production stuff, tons of things out of stock. Hoping the 3rd CNC we just added will get us there once it's tooled up, but every time I think I'm getting unburied, there's more.
someguy2800
Member
Form 1 is easy peazy. Just need to order some finger print cards and you'll be done in an hour.
Zak Smith
Member
Your existing can can be cleaned, chemically.
MachIVshooter
Member
Aggressive chemicals in aluminum cans is a gamble even if the parts are anodized, and chemicals like "the dip" (hydrogen peroxide and vinegar) will eat raw aluminum parts, including getting underneath the anodic layer if there is even a small chip, crack or unanodized area. The majority of Gemtechs I've been into have raw aluminum baffles.
Recently recored an AWC Amphibian that the dip was used on, almost nothing left of the baffles.
If there's an aluminum safe chemical that will effectively dissolve carbon and lead out there, I'm all ears, but the lack of effective cleaning options is the reason we jailbreak so many aluminum cored cans so that they can be mechanically cleaned with the aid of aluminum safe solvents.
Zak Smith
Member
You're right about the viper and CLR. I had assumed that an old dedicated SMG can would have been steel.
Gemtech's cleaning part of the manual is curious:
https://www.gemtech.com/media/amasty/amfile/attach/1fa9613783a578c0d880f2e3e57e329e.pdf
In any case, you might try an ultrasonic (notes here from silencershop and Al cleaning in US) or a method like taking a pressure washer and having an attachment with one small hole that sprays out the side at a right angle, then run it through the case while rotating it to mechanically break up the carbon.
Gemtech's cleaning part of the manual is curious:
https://www.gemtech.com/media/amasty/amfile/attach/1fa9613783a578c0d880f2e3e57e329e.pdf
In any case, you might try an ultrasonic (notes here from silencershop and Al cleaning in US) or a method like taking a pressure washer and having an attachment with one small hole that sprays out the side at a right angle, then run it through the case while rotating it to mechanically break up the carbon.
Txhillbilly
Member
I've done three Electronic Form 1's, it's easy. Set up an account, fill out the form's, attach a passport type photo, and pay the tax online. Then send in your finger print cards. I got all of my stamps approved in 4-6 weeks.
An easy way to clean any welded / sealed suppressor's is buy a gallon can of Berryman's Chem-Dip. Soak your suppressor's in it 24 hours, and blow them out with an air compressor. It'll take the carbon build up off engine valves, so cleaning the carbon off of baffle's isn't a problem. I've used it for many years.
An easy way to clean any welded / sealed suppressor's is buy a gallon can of Berryman's Chem-Dip. Soak your suppressor's in it 24 hours, and blow them out with an air compressor. It'll take the carbon build up off engine valves, so cleaning the carbon off of baffle's isn't a problem. I've used it for many years.
jmorris
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You know, for R&R on aluminum heat exchangers (aircraft) a friend of mine used a pneumatic diaphragm pump and some sort of burst pressure method with heated chemicals, along with vibration to clean them inside. Not sure exactly what they use but all of the processes, etc are closely inspected by the FAA during QSA’s.
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