midland man
Member
so I've been buying commercial made bore butter or wonder lube 1000 so my question is is there a recipe to make my own bore butter and if so please tell me how to make it?? thanks! 
making homemade bore butter
- Thread starter midland man
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Dorset_Dave
Member
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- Sep 16, 2015
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Oooh. I'd also be interested in a DIY version of wonder lube.
cheatin charlie
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- Jan 10, 2009
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You might find this interesting about lube.
https://user.xmission.com/~drudy/hist_text-arch5/msg00973.html
https://user.xmission.com/~drudy/hist_text-arch5/msg00973.html
Carl N. Brown
Member
I have not been shooting muzzleloading rifle as much as I used to and my old 1970s era brass frame cap'n'ball revolvers are best left wall hangers.
But, years back when I was running low on bore butter, I melted a mix of beeswax and vegetable shortening to make a semi-solid lube as a temporary substitute. As I recall, its seemed to work as well, for immediate use, but did not seem to have the shelf life of the commercial product.
But, years back when I was running low on bore butter, I melted a mix of beeswax and vegetable shortening to make a semi-solid lube as a temporary substitute. As I recall, its seemed to work as well, for immediate use, but did not seem to have the shelf life of the commercial product.
From a previous post:
About ten years ago I began seeing a series of "what is bore butter" threads that consistently noted olive oil as the "active ingredient."
Watching even longer and continually shooting in the BPCR crowd reinforced that base as most probable main component.
So 8 years ago I began mixing it up myself a pint at a time... which later got picked up along these lines:
• 1 part bees wax (any hobby store)
• 4 parts Olive oil (Extra Virgin for extra performance -- NOT)
• Dash of food color (various colors depending on my mood)
• Dash of Spearmint/Wintergreen/Peppermint oil (whatever the wife won't miss)
I also have about 4 tubes of real Bore butter which I occasionally take to the range, otherwise it's a tupperware container of the the "mix"
above. Over the years I have found Zero (0) difference in using the real-versus-mix in my patched ball game: not in feel, not in patch ease
going down the barrel, not in aimpoint zero, and not in group size (...which isn't the best. That distinction still goes to plain ol' spit
and/or 7:1 diluted cutting Oil. But it is a reasonable pre-lubed/hunting patch combo.)
I reiterate, however, that "bore butter" is not a barrel 'conditioner' or preservative.
Google < "Bore Butter" rust > sometime. (The internet does have its uses )
About ten years ago I began seeing a series of "what is bore butter" threads that consistently noted olive oil as the "active ingredient."
Watching even longer and continually shooting in the BPCR crowd reinforced that base as most probable main component.
So 8 years ago I began mixing it up myself a pint at a time... which later got picked up along these lines:
• 1 part bees wax (any hobby store)
• 4 parts Olive oil (Extra Virgin for extra performance -- NOT)
• Dash of food color (various colors depending on my mood)
• Dash of Spearmint/Wintergreen/Peppermint oil (whatever the wife won't miss)
I also have about 4 tubes of real Bore butter which I occasionally take to the range, otherwise it's a tupperware container of the the "mix"
above. Over the years I have found Zero (0) difference in using the real-versus-mix in my patched ball game: not in feel, not in patch ease
going down the barrel, not in aimpoint zero, and not in group size (...which isn't the best. That distinction still goes to plain ol' spit
and/or 7:1 diluted cutting Oil. But it is a reasonable pre-lubed/hunting patch combo.)
I reiterate, however, that "bore butter" is not a barrel 'conditioner' or preservative.
Google < "Bore Butter" rust > sometime. (The internet does have its uses )
swathdiver
Member
so I've been buying commercial made bore butter or wonder lube 1000 so my question is is there a recipe to make my own bore butter and if so please tell me how to make it?? thanks!
It's easier than pie.
1 Part Beeswax to 5 Parts Extra Virgin Olive Oil. I mix mine up in a jar that sits in a bath of water in a pan or large pot on the stove set low but hot enough to melt the beeswax.
In our home, we use bore butter to lube, clean and protect and have never experienced rust because of it. Even use to condition the wood, the steel, calloused hands, leather, elbows, etc.
Great stuff!
Dorset_Dave
Member
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- Sep 16, 2015
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- 15
After trying this out I found 4:1 made it too stiff (UK winter) I'll add another part oil to the mix and see how that plays. Many thanks for the recipe, should save me a good few £££
DD4lifeusmc
Member
bore butter or wonder lube no but a good lube yes.
Do not use crisco vegetable oil or "lard" in the mix.
Use animal fat lard in the mix.
Some swear by Mutton (sheep) tallow. But I doubt you'll see any real difference in what ever animal fat you use.
Lard and Tallow is the same thing, animal fat that has been rendered ( slow cooked) down to remove all the moisture. (this is just basically)
Bacon fat can be used but not salt cured.
So if you want you can cook any fat down and make your own animal fat lard.
But easier to just buy it at the grocery store. Normally in a small paperbox or plastic bucket on the shelf with the other cooking oils.
Melt some down melt some beeswax down. then using equal proportions of the melt mix the 2 together ( use a liquid to get best results).
The two solids don't weigh the same.
Start with 50 /50 let set. see how the consistency is to YOU and what you intend to use it for.
Too thin add more beeswax too thick more lard
Trial and error till you get what YOU want.
But always do it with both items melted.
You have to stop and think. Back in the 17 and 1800's did the mountainman have ready access to Sheep? probably not and neither did most other folks.
But they did have some beef, deer, elk, beaver, coon, hogs etc.
They rendered the fat they had access too.
Beeswax was a very common commodity back then
It was used for a lot of things. Candles, sealing jars, waterproofing,
Most people did have access to that.
Although some vegetable oils can be used to each his own on that I suspect.
Do not use crisco vegetable oil or "lard" in the mix.
Use animal fat lard in the mix.
Some swear by Mutton (sheep) tallow. But I doubt you'll see any real difference in what ever animal fat you use.
Lard and Tallow is the same thing, animal fat that has been rendered ( slow cooked) down to remove all the moisture. (this is just basically)
Bacon fat can be used but not salt cured.
So if you want you can cook any fat down and make your own animal fat lard.
But easier to just buy it at the grocery store. Normally in a small paperbox or plastic bucket on the shelf with the other cooking oils.
Melt some down melt some beeswax down. then using equal proportions of the melt mix the 2 together ( use a liquid to get best results).
The two solids don't weigh the same.
Start with 50 /50 let set. see how the consistency is to YOU and what you intend to use it for.
Too thin add more beeswax too thick more lard
Trial and error till you get what YOU want.
But always do it with both items melted.
You have to stop and think. Back in the 17 and 1800's did the mountainman have ready access to Sheep? probably not and neither did most other folks.
But they did have some beef, deer, elk, beaver, coon, hogs etc.
They rendered the fat they had access too.
Beeswax was a very common commodity back then
It was used for a lot of things. Candles, sealing jars, waterproofing,
Most people did have access to that.
Although some vegetable oils can be used to each his own on that I suspect.
frontiergander
Member
anything with beeswax or any kind of wax isnt going to be worth a darn IMO.
Panzerschwein
member
Why do you say that?
frontiergander
Member
why anyone would want beeswax or parrafin wax in their bores is beyond me. Its nasty stuff that builds up in bore and does nothing to aid in loading.
OP
OP
midland man
Member
i'm trying to make a copy of either borebutter or wonder lube or close to it so is these recipes are they the same or close? thanks guys!
frontiergander
Member
Chap Stick is bore butter with a little wintergreen oil added for smell.
Prairie Dawg
Member
Here's a recipe I've used with my muzzleloaders for many years, courtesy of my Hawaiian pard RedHand
Ingredients for about 5 pounds of Bore Butter, Hawaiian Style:
1 Lb. Natural Bee's Wax
Olive Oil - about 2 to 4 pounds (1 lb = 2 cups of oil)
1 oz. Cinnamon Oil (oil of cassia) food grade
10 each ½ pound containers
Procedure for Bore Butter, Hawaiian Style
1. Melt the 1 lb. of natural bee's wax in a thick pot Slowly with about 2 lbs. of oil. If the wax is dirty add 1 quart of water to allow bee body parts, pollen and other stuff to accumulate in the water.
2. Remove from heat and let it get solid. Then wash and scrape the bottom of the material to clean it up. Re heat and pour the clean mixture into a large microwave able container.
3. Test poke with your finger. If your finger hurts, add oil.
4. Nuke (microwave) until liquid or about two or three minutes, and stir. Let it get solid again. If your finger hurts go to #3 else continue to # 5.
5. Let it cool and pour into small 1/2 Lb. containers. Makes about 4-5 Lbs. depending on how loose you want your Bore Butter. Remember, the more oil the softer the mixture will be. The softer the mixture, the lower the melting point.
6. Continue to reheat - cook about 8 to 10 times total. The mixture will change consistency and smooth out. At the end of the last heating add 1 teaspoon of Cinnamon Oil per ½ pound of mixture.
7. Attach a fancy label, which will impress your friends.
Notes: I have used Oil of Orange, Oil of Lemon, Oil of Spearmint and Maple flavor. I have also used Red candle color for revolver lube. I like it best when it is the natural Bee's Wax yellow and smells like Bee's Wax and Cinnamon. That's the real Hawaiian Bore Butter.
Maple flavor doesn't work because it is water based. The additives must be oil based, both color and flavor, to work well. Oil-based colors can be found in a candle supply or craft shop that has candle-making supplies. The best place to get oil-based flavors is in a drug store or a supermarket
depending on which kind of oil is required. Bee's wax can be found on e-bay
or look in your local phone book.
--Redhand
Bore Butter uses-> patch lube, cushion wad lube, general purpose lube, bore preservative, vehicle for rottenstone for rubbing powder horns so smooth, water proofs leather, protects leather from the elements (i.e. my Harley Saddle bags), revolver over the ball grease, grease for revolver cylinder pin, lube for various body parts (I was thinking about FEET), great wax for sealing end cuts of green lumber (may work as tree seal as well), burn salve, great for chapped hands and lips, on cast balls to preserve them from oxidizing, in groves of cast maxies, emergency candle fuel as well as a poor fire starter, wax resist for glazing pottery, flux for casting balls, grease to stop the barrel browning process, mustache and dread-lock wax (for real!) and gifts to my shooting friends.
To prepare precut prelubed patches, insert 100 patches and about one tablespoon of bore butter into a baggie. Nuke for 30 seconds or until melted then let the patches cool off and absorb the bore butter. You will find that by varying the amount of measured bore butter per 100 patches you can find what your gun likes to shoot and it will be consistent. Also put 25 cushion
wads with 1 tablespoon of bore butter into a baggie. Nuke for 30 seconds or
until melted.
Ingredients for about 5 pounds of Bore Butter, Hawaiian Style:
1 Lb. Natural Bee's Wax
Olive Oil - about 2 to 4 pounds (1 lb = 2 cups of oil)
1 oz. Cinnamon Oil (oil of cassia) food grade
10 each ½ pound containers
Procedure for Bore Butter, Hawaiian Style
1. Melt the 1 lb. of natural bee's wax in a thick pot Slowly with about 2 lbs. of oil. If the wax is dirty add 1 quart of water to allow bee body parts, pollen and other stuff to accumulate in the water.
2. Remove from heat and let it get solid. Then wash and scrape the bottom of the material to clean it up. Re heat and pour the clean mixture into a large microwave able container.
3. Test poke with your finger. If your finger hurts, add oil.
4. Nuke (microwave) until liquid or about two or three minutes, and stir. Let it get solid again. If your finger hurts go to #3 else continue to # 5.
5. Let it cool and pour into small 1/2 Lb. containers. Makes about 4-5 Lbs. depending on how loose you want your Bore Butter. Remember, the more oil the softer the mixture will be. The softer the mixture, the lower the melting point.
6. Continue to reheat - cook about 8 to 10 times total. The mixture will change consistency and smooth out. At the end of the last heating add 1 teaspoon of Cinnamon Oil per ½ pound of mixture.
7. Attach a fancy label, which will impress your friends.
Notes: I have used Oil of Orange, Oil of Lemon, Oil of Spearmint and Maple flavor. I have also used Red candle color for revolver lube. I like it best when it is the natural Bee's Wax yellow and smells like Bee's Wax and Cinnamon. That's the real Hawaiian Bore Butter.
Maple flavor doesn't work because it is water based. The additives must be oil based, both color and flavor, to work well. Oil-based colors can be found in a candle supply or craft shop that has candle-making supplies. The best place to get oil-based flavors is in a drug store or a supermarket
depending on which kind of oil is required. Bee's wax can be found on e-bay
or look in your local phone book.
--Redhand
Bore Butter uses-> patch lube, cushion wad lube, general purpose lube, bore preservative, vehicle for rottenstone for rubbing powder horns so smooth, water proofs leather, protects leather from the elements (i.e. my Harley Saddle bags), revolver over the ball grease, grease for revolver cylinder pin, lube for various body parts (I was thinking about FEET), great wax for sealing end cuts of green lumber (may work as tree seal as well), burn salve, great for chapped hands and lips, on cast balls to preserve them from oxidizing, in groves of cast maxies, emergency candle fuel as well as a poor fire starter, wax resist for glazing pottery, flux for casting balls, grease to stop the barrel browning process, mustache and dread-lock wax (for real!) and gifts to my shooting friends.
To prepare precut prelubed patches, insert 100 patches and about one tablespoon of bore butter into a baggie. Nuke for 30 seconds or until melted then let the patches cool off and absorb the bore butter. You will find that by varying the amount of measured bore butter per 100 patches you can find what your gun likes to shoot and it will be consistent. Also put 25 cushion
wads with 1 tablespoon of bore butter into a baggie. Nuke for 30 seconds or
until melted.
DD4lifeusmc
Member
frontier gander
Beeswax has been used at least 300 yr.
Beeswax is all natural and when mixed with the lard does not build up.
what it does is allow the viscosity of the lard to be regulated thicker / thinner.
Never use Paraffin or any other petroleum based lube. It can leave a thick tarry build up. Not always not every gun but can.
So my question is what are you using for a lube?
Beeswax has been used at least 300 yr.
Beeswax is all natural and when mixed with the lard does not build up.
what it does is allow the viscosity of the lard to be regulated thicker / thinner.
Never use Paraffin or any other petroleum based lube. It can leave a thick tarry build up. Not always not every gun but can.
So my question is what are you using for a lube?
frontiergander
Member
That I can not tell you as its a secret.
What I can tell you is that it does not contain beeswax, soap, veggie fat, animal fat, chap stick.
But I can show this much. Do you trust your patch lube in this kind of weather?
What I can tell you is that it does not contain beeswax, soap, veggie fat, animal fat, chap stick.
But I can show this much. Do you trust your patch lube in this kind of weather?
OP
OP
midland man
Member
so guys let me ask this will these homemade bore butter recipes go bad from storage or do they have a long storage life?? thanks guys!
swathdiver
Member
None of mine has gone bad or rancid. When I did not use Goya brand of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, I noticed that the lube would change colors after a while on the metal to blue and green. Since switching back to Goya, it doesn't happen anymore.
If one adds any animal fat to a "bore butter" recipe, it is no longer bore butter.
Bore Butter is simply 5 Parts Extra Virgin Olive Oil and 1 Part Beeswax. Colorings and scents are extra and I don't bother with them save for the stuff we make for our ladies for gifts. They use the same stuff as hand/elbow cream, etc.
Beeswax when mixed with Olive Oil and or Tallow does not make a mess in any way as it would if someone were to pour melted beeswax over their gun or into their bore. It is great stuff with hundreds or thousands of uses.
Now, quit talking about it and just do it man!
Doesn't Bore Butter get all gooey in the summer?
It's hot where I live and I just go with 50% animal fat and 50% candle wax. It's still usable in winter time, and in the summer it doesn't turn into goo. I use it to make paper catridges also so it must be mostly solid as to not contaminate the powder.
I know of a guy who simply uses rendered animal fat and it works just fine for him.
It's hot where I live and I just go with 50% animal fat and 50% candle wax. It's still usable in winter time, and in the summer it doesn't turn into goo. I use it to make paper catridges also so it must be mostly solid as to not contaminate the powder.
I know of a guy who simply uses rendered animal fat and it works just fine for him.
swathdiver
Member
When we leave out in the sun it gets gooey. But we don't do that! What are you guys using it for?
It's really just a lubricant for the screws, internals and to clean and wipe the bore with.
It's the beeswax and tallow mixtures that are best used to grease wads, grease grooves on conicals, grease cookies, grease wads, grease over the chambers, etc.
It's really just a lubricant for the screws, internals and to clean and wipe the bore with.
It's the beeswax and tallow mixtures that are best used to grease wads, grease grooves on conicals, grease cookies, grease wads, grease over the chambers, etc.
noelf2
Member
The process of slow cooking the fat / suet to make tallow is different than making typical lard. Lard is generally made by "fry" rendering the fat. Tallow is made by "boil" rendering the fat (with water). Still, sometimes lard is called tallow and tallow is called lard. The best tallow for use as a lubricant is suet boiled down in water. It's cleaner, and less likely to go rancid. I gave up on making tallow for bullet lube. Crisco, olive oil, and other clean vegetable fats seem to work just as well in lube recipes, and are cheaper and easier to get.
rodinal220
Member
I omit the paraffin from the Gatofeo #1 lube to make it softer, 50/50 mutton tallow and beeswax. Paraffin wont gum up or turn to hard cruddy stuff as used in the popularized Gatofeo wad lube,its an old and proven formula.
Noz
Member
Some folks like their lube to smell good. Walmart has a large case of candle aromas. cheap and effective.
My lube? I have given up on the mess and expense of making my own lubes and instead use SPG.
My lube? I have given up on the mess and expense of making my own lubes and instead use SPG.
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