Making Reactive Targets

[antsi]

I'd like to make some reactive targets. My father has a machine shop, so I have access to metal cutting, welding, etc., but I need some tips on what I'm doing.

My idea was to make a stand with two different size gongs on it, and also clamps for paper targets. I'm open to other designs/suggestions.

I'd like to be able to shoot rifles as well as pistols at this thing. What grade of steel do I need to make my gongs out of?

My plan was to make the frame out of angle iron, with the angle facing toward the shooter.

Backstop is no problem - there's an old quarry on the property, with a u-shaped cut into the hill about 30' high.

 

[trickyasafox]

i'd also recomend putting a spring on it with a base to attatch bowling pins. those are often virtually free and a hoot to shoot

 

[garrett1955]

one word! TANNERITE!!!!!!!!

 

[Chuck R.]

Antsi,

I’ve set up my own range on my place and am improving as I go. One issue to be concerned about is the type of steel you’re going to use for your targets. Once your steel gets dimpled or cratered you run the risk of bounce backs and increased splatter.

I’ve got some mild 3/4” thick stuff that I use for strictly handguns. It has worked great for lead and FMJ at 20-60 feet. Angled down slightly it rings and sprays into the ground.

For rifle targets, I’ve started buying commercial made T520 steel (armor plate) from Arntzen Corporation: http://www.arntzentargets.com/SteelTypes.htm

Check out their site if for some information on steel type if nothing else.

The T520 rated for FMJ at 100 yards and so far I haven’t managed to scratch it with either 7.62 ball or 30M1 Ball. I’m using the 2/3rds IPSC targets and at 200 meters, they’re pretty fun to shoot, at 300 meters, they get pretty challenging. The T520 also makes a very satisfying ring when hit. I’m buying new targets as time (read money) permits with the goal of replacing the mild steel.

Chuck

 

[BullfrogKen]

Were you thinking only of steel gongs and falling plates, or is what you're interested in more for enhancing and attempting to reproduce realistic training?

I can let you know what we use for the NTI's interactive target systems. No steel involved, and with the price its going for these days, that's a good thing.

 

[RyanM]

Balloons are good reactive targets. Cheap and easy to clean up, too.

 

[hobbeeman]

Someone suggested paintballs to me...Sounds fun

 

[antsi]

I guess reactive targets wasn't the term I was looking for. I was thinking about gongs and the ilk - basically targets that can be left set up and that you can hear when you hit them.

 

[Darkside]

You will want to use AR500 steel, at least 3/8" thick for centerfire swinging targets. I got a really good deal on some 3/4" thick AR400 and made some swinging plates. It works OK but I get some very small dimples in it from the small fast bullets. These plate have been shot at with everything from .17 Rem, 7-08, 30-06, 243. and 300 Wby mag. The most damage was done by the .17 Rem. due to its' very small frontal area of the bullet.

I tried some T1 steel and my 30-06 zipped right through it at 200 yards. I took the T1 and had some 1/2 scale critter targets cut out of it. T1 work for 22 rimfire up to 45ACP.

Darkside

 

[Oldtimer]

"Gong" targets are great, but not necessarily for usage within 50 yards. Mild steel will work, but most center-fire rifle rounds will go through it, unless it is excessively thick.

"Planted" steel plates won't last very long, for you'll put a lot of holes through them. If they're "swinging targets" (mounted, say, between two trees and affixed to steel chain or cable), the initial strike of the rifle rounds will be lessened slightly, due to the steel plate reacting to the sudden impact. To a certain extent, welding steel plates onto spring steel coils (car springs) will lessen the impact, but they'll also get knocked over after one solid strike....if they're not solidly implanted in the ground.

The "gong"-type steel targets are better suited for .22 and center-fire handgun calibers. I've been using a 1/2" piece of steel plate (12" x 12") for about 10 years. The "face" of the steel plate gets "dimpled", but nothing has gone through it so far. When the "face" becomes too dimpled, it gets turned around, with a fresh coat of white spray paint, and the "dimples" will eventually be straightened out!

The HARDENED/TEMPERED steel plates might cause you some problems with center-fire rifle rounds! I tried out an old "manhole cover" that was hardened steel, and even .30'06 AP rounds didn't go through it! Even at 100 yards, however, I was worried about richochets and bounce-backs! Even if I had angled that manhole cover, so that the rounds would be directed downward after impact, I didn't fully trust the "rocks in the ground" possibility!

By the way, I have a "lucky piece" that I carry in my watch pocket. It's the hardened steel penetrator from a .30'06 AP round that was fired at a 3/4" thick mild steel plate at 200 yards. The copper jacket and lead from that round were fully stripped from the penetrator upon impact, but the the hardened steel penetrator penetrated THROUGH the steel plate! Actually, the tip of the penetrator was exposed through the rear side of that steel plate. It took a LOT of hammering to free the penetrator from the plate, but the sharp point of it was unscathed by the hammering! It's about the size of a .223 bullet, and if you didn't know that it had been fired, you'd think that I had picked it out of a box of UN-fired penetrator projectiles! HMM! Maybe that's why they call them "armor piercing"?

LEAD bullet vs. STEEL plates is okay. Metal jacketted bullets vs. STEEL plates are PROBABLY okay, but AP rounds vs. STEEL plates is definitely risky business....especially within less than 100 yards!

 

[Rembrandt]

Built these for our range at the farm....target frames set in concrete incorporates two gongs/swingers and frame for paper targets. Swingers are two layers of 3/8 steel (3/4" total thickness). Set up at 50-100-200 yards. Work well for shotgun slugs, handguns, high power rifles...a little heavy for rimfires, barely moves them. If swingers get too shot up simply remove the pivot pin and reweld the holes shut. Design allows the swingers to be interchanged with something different (like animal or bowling pin silhouettes).

 

[shooting time]

I make mine from 1/2" AR plate some are on chains,others on a rod and hinge and some with roller chain for hangers.I shoot 22-45 acp at them with little damage. I made one with 1" thick steel hung by 2 chains and shot it with 50 cal BMG rounds out of a sniper rifle and they just put little puddles in it . Shooting at 25 yds using steel targets can be dangerous due to lead coming back when the steel gets potmarked with craters.

 

[nvshooter]

There's a place on the web that makes 'em. The address is http://metaltargets.com. Go there and get some ideas.