Making WWII 1911A1 clone

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trfcrugby

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I am about to purchase a RIA 1911A1, after reading some pretty good reviews about it. Most people think it is worth the price ($399).

Let me explain what I want, and make sure that everyone agrees. I just got my CMP Garand (April 1944), and my carbine order is in, too (received April 30th). I am trying to get a sample of every weapon from WWII that I can, as sort of a collection, or at least that is what I keep telling my wife. I don't plan on doing any work on this gun, I want it as close to the issue 1911A1 as possible.

The Springfield GI is also a good choice, but it is about $130 more.

Here come the questions....

Did the WWII model have the curved mainspring housing, or flat?
What hammer would be best on the replica?
Were the WWII grips wood or black plastic?
Is there anything else cosmetically that I would want to replace?
Was it grey parkerized or black?

Ebay has a ton of parts for cheap, and I think they would fit on this gun, since it is supposed to me compatible with all 1911A1 parts, or so I was told.

Thanks for any help.
 
Curved mainspring housing, brown plastic grips, greenish/gray parkerized, hammers varied but usually checkered on top and dark color.
We were still using WW II leftovers when I was Gunnery Officer on the JOHN S. MCCAIN (DDG-36) in the early '70s.
 
But doesn't the RIA

have a FLARED ejection port? If so, you cannot make a WW2 clone out of it.
 
Thanks!

Do you remember if the mainspring was checkered, or if it had the straight cuts in it?

Lanyard ring was included, right?

Thank you again.

I was told that the RIA and the Springer GI were about as close as you could get to a WWII gun. Does the GI have this flared port? How can I tell...this is my first 1911.
 
Straight cuts on the mainspring housing. Some had lanyard loops, some didn't.
Look at the ejection port on a Colt Gold Cup vs. a std Colt 1911. The port on the GC is deeper...less distance between the bottom of the cut and the slide rails. Does that make sense? Also the GC has a cut (dimple) at the back of the ejection port; a GI .45 won't have that.
 
Almost forgot; the 1911A1 has the short GI trigger. The earlier 1911 had a longer trigger. Also, the 1911A1 has relief cuts on either side just behind the trigger on the frame. The GI trigger is checkered, not smooth, and parkerized like the rest of the pistol.
 
Gi .45

Though its' a more expensive option, I think you might get the closest by having one built up for you with a Caspian Classic slide and frame. They are making these especially for guys who like the earlier style with the original frame and slide cuts. While its' a more expensive option, I think it could be a true heirloom quality piece.
Cheers, TF
 
You know what, build the gun up with a serrated slide stop, serrated narrow tab thumb safety, serrated arched mainspring housing, and a narrow short spur checkered hammer and if anybody complains about the lowered ejection port tell them this is what would have been done if the Military had continued to buy 1911A1 pistols.

I have had the opportunity to handle a few genuine military special operation .45 autos and each and every one had a lowered ejection port added to the genuine military issue slide so the point of port dimension is somewhat moot in my opinion.

Your gun won't be "Exactly" WW2 mil spec but so what, unless you are planning to put one over on a prospective buyer.
The pistol will be close enough to make you happy.
 
I think if you put on an arched mainspring housing, short trigger, and some brown plastic grips, you will be close enough to fool anybody who doesn't read the markings. Don't agonize over the minor details unless you are willing to put in a lot more money than an RIA and some surplus parts.
 
I just want a little buddy to shoot with my Garand at the range.

So I think I am going to get the RIA, a curved Ithica type mainspring housing with lanyard ring, a short checkered trigger, and a set of plastic USGI brown grips. I'll look on Ebay for the other parts, they seem very cheap.

I assume they are pretty easy to install as well? I've built an AK (including the demil) and several ARs, so I have moderate skills with tools.
 
There are lots of places to find how to break down the .45. Once you remove the arched mainspring housing and magazine release, it's pretty much a piece of cake. You won't have to remove the hammer, sear, etc. to change out the trigger, so that makes it easy.
If you can't find the instructions, send me a PM and I'll send you a scan out my 1911 NRA book with the instructions.
 
Too bad, you just missed a fully document NIB presentation Singer at Rock Island Auctions. You could have bought the gun OR a new Corvette!

There are, frequently, genuine WW II 45s on gunbroker and auction arms. Some are quite reasonable if they are mixed rebuilds like my Dad's that I have. Ithaca lower, Remington Rand upper.Still works fine with 45 hardball.
 
You can take a look at the different ejection ports by clicking on my blog page here.

Here is a Springfield GI45 that I modified to approximate a M1911A1.

I, personally, would go with the GI45, but a Colt Sistema, if you can find one in decent shape, is also a good choice. The Sistema, afterall, is a 1911A1, and you will have to do nothing to it.

You can get genuine M1911A1 grips here. They are also often listed on ebay.

Surplus M1911A1 triggers can be had here.

Altering a pistol, even a 1911 is not a simple switcheroo affair. Make certain you know how to fit the parts (hammer, thumb safety) properly so the pistol will be safe.

Mixmaster M1911A1s run around $500 to $1000 depending on the quality of the pistol, and the ignorance/knowledge of the buyer and seller. I gave $1200 for this Remington Rand and holster. I consider that deal to be fair. It took me several years to luck up on it.

RemingtonRandM1911A1.gif

You won't have to remove the hammer, sear, etc. to change out the trigger, so that makes it easy.
Click to expand...
I've always removed the MSH, grip safety, hammer, sear spring, thumb safety, disconnect, sear, and magazine release prior to removing the trigger. I'll have to try it removing only the MSH and magazine release next time........
 
Big OOPS

Big correction on my part...had a senior moment. You do have to remove the grip safety, sear spring, etc. to change out the trigger...sorry.
 
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Lots of good advice, thanks to everyone.

Xavier, that is a great picture, I am going for that exact look, so it's cool to see a pretty high res picture of the real thing.

I'm at work, so any weapons related site is blocked, so I'll check the links when I get home.

Thanks again.
 
Love those US&S. Last two complete originals I watched on auctions went for $6475 abd $7049 (a beautifl gun). Only 55,000 produced. My US&S and one of my Rem Rands.
 

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If you want to build a WWII 1911A1 clone, try looking here and select "Colt 1911A1 .45 ACP" from the Quick Search dropdown and then click the "Photos and Information" button.

The above website has photos of several dozen wartime 1911s and the first thing you will notice is that they have many subtle differences.
 
I am poor so my Rock Island Armory 1911 will have to be it for me. Heck..It shoots just fine.
d_a8fd7_6ccf8f_oJ.jpg.thumb
 
springer gi should be closer to $450 the gi is as close to WWII issue small port arched mainspring w/lanyard.the mil-spec has lowered port and 3 dot sights it sounds like this is what you priced.here is photo of my GI springer BTW it looks great with my garand:neener:
 

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